170ci Upgrading fuel system - carb & fuel pump 170ci

This applies only to 170CID

Fes1966Bronco

New member
I just started to work on my 66 Bronco with I6 170ci engine.

Of course the fuel pump is bad, the carb is not original and throttle linkage is on the wrong side and the fuel tank is full of rust.

I figured it would be a good time to upgrade the fuel system the best I can. Any thoughts on an electric fuel pump and carb?

I’m also switching out the fuel tank and fuel lines.

Thanks for any advice.
 
Nice to hear about your 66 Bronco and since your open to advice...
Apparently fuel pumps now available from parts stores are often poor quality. I would get one at NAPA as it might be better and see if that can get you going..
Since your carb is not original now is a good time to replace the carb with one from the 200, higher cfm, that came on the Bronco up till early 70's ? And then a Duraspark II distributor, box and coil. That along with the higher cfm 200 carb and a slight bump in timing will possibly yield a few hp and more importantly will just run better with the electronic ignition.
I would consider an electric fuel pump but have no experience.
At one time a radiator shop could clean a fuel tank for you but not many radiator shops around and you can buy new tanks from the Bronco vendors check them out over on classicbroncos.com. And replacing fuel lines is a good idea.
Keep us informed.
 
Nice to hear about your 66 Bronco and since your open to advice...
Apparently fuel pumps now available from parts stores are often poor quality. I would get one at NAPA as it might be better and see if that can get you going..
Since your carb is not original now is a good time to replace the carb with one from the 200, higher cfm, that came on the Bronco up till early 70's ? And then a Duraspark II distributor, box and coil. That along with the higher cfm 200 carb and a slight bump in timing will possibly yield a few hp and more importantly will just run better with the electronic ignition.
I would consider an electric fuel pump but have no experience.
At one time a radiator shop could clean a fuel tank for you but not many radiator shops around and you can buy new tanks from the Bronco vendors check them out over on classicbroncos.com. And replacing fuel lines is a good idea.
Keep us informed.
Thanks for your insight. Any particular carb brand/ model you suggest?
 
This member is replacing his 170 with a 250. Might sell you his carb, don't know what dist is compatible with it. 1969 Bronco.
 
Thanks for your insight. Any particular carb brand/ model you suggest?
Your 66 probably had an Autolite, common on 170/200 at that time. An Autolite from a 200 will have a bit more cfm which may boost hp slightly with upgraded ignition and tuning. Replacing with an Autolite should work with your stock linkage if still existing.
Now there is a thing called Load o Matic (check spelling) which was a carb and distributor designed to work in conjunction using the LOM system which was not one of Fords best ideas and was abandoned in the late 60s. You stated the carb on your Bronco was not original so the dist may have been changed also. Post pictures on here of your carb and dist and someone on here can identify what you have.
So an ideal combination would be a 200 carb non-LOM and a DSII ignition.
Sometimes finding the carb you want is difficult but you can contact Mikes Carburetors or other similar company and tell them what you want. DSII systems can still occasionally be found in wrecking yards, online sources including Classic Inlines I believe and a member on here, wsa111, is an actual dist expert and source.
Or if the guy I mentioned in previous message that I forgot to provide a link to is replacing his 1969 Bronco 170 motor, which may be non-LOM, you might buy his carb.
 
Here is a link for load o matic dist that may help and probably many experienced with this combination will chime in here. I have not seen a LOM carb and dist for 15-20 years since I removed mine and tossed it the garbage.

This is from Articles above.
At this point you may just want to proceed with DSII and later non LOM carb upgrade. I doubt you will miss having points.
 
Here is a link for load o matic dist that may help and probably many experienced with this combination will chime in here. I have not seen a LOM carb and dist for 15-20 years since I removed mine and tossed it the garbage.

This is from Articles above.
At this point you may just want to proceed with DSII and later non LOM carb upgrade. I doubt you will miss having points.
This article was a huge help. It helps me make sense of the suggestions if been getting and why. Thank you for sending it!
 
~new arrival here, sorry to back trac~
First I’d step back and ask what is intended w/this vehicle...
Right now is the hot market for these rigs. You have one of the most desirable (= ⬆︎$) - 1st year.
As w/every vehicle the important Q is - what it the final application? Even more important here
as U have a multi-purpose (not good @ any thing, fair at several). Finally (for now) do you seek
long term ownership?
 
My goal is to keep it long term and drive it for now. Of course unless I’m offered a price I can’t refuse.

I’d like to keep as much original parts as I can, but again I’d like to drive it around town regularly. So if some basic upgrades are necessary then I like to choose ones that still allow me (or someone else) the option down the road to be able to revert back to the original 66 parts.

Does this answer your questions?
 
“...answer your question..."
yes, some. Plenty more~
Learn the LOM/SCV system as it sounds U want authentic?
Go to the Tech Archive for ’64/5 break and ’68/9. Decision
trees exsist @ those junctions. But now I C “250/4.1 transplant"?
That can B thought of as a stang (‘69+) motor. Not on the authentic
end of restorations...
 
My goal is to keep it long term and drive it for now. Of course unless I’m offered a price I can’t refuse.

I’d like to keep as much original parts as I can, but again I’d like to drive it around town regularly. So if some basic upgrades are necessary then I like to choose ones that still allow me (or someone else) the option down the road to be able to revert back to the original 66 parts.

Does this answer your questions?
Yeah just keep all the original 66 parts that is what I did. Can revert back if needed and mine has not been cut so even easier.
 
“..that is what I did..."
uhuh: Signature: 250, NV3550, DSII, 4 turn ps, uncut, 1" bl, 2.5" sl, front disc, twin stick D 20, 30 x 9.50
C’mon bmbm~
only tire is close, but not ‘on’ the $ (15 & 16 x 29 x 7.50, no?).
Do what makes U happy Fess. Opting to sell “if some one offers” is a different story.
These vehicles R comin in (have) to the ‘classic car’ field. Long term ownership, original, survivor and restored
get top dollar
. A bronk can drive like a modern vehicle even if restored original SCV/LOM, drums, etc. What many do is restore beyond what came out of the factory (paint, trim, panel/dor alignment, etc). Others (me) rest0mod for daily driving in modern traffic with an eye toward what looks original. A bronk is a multi-purpose so the 1st 40 yrs of ownership this one ran the woods for my income. Now it’s being modded for my daughter @ 30% off rd / 70% on. 2 very different lives and components used. BTW: if U have not cked this out here’s nother... concourse correct
thassss top dollar (restoration, not mentioned above except @ italics)
 
then sit dwn (I think ur in the research phase right now, good 4 U) and make a plan (Budget too?). ( What you’ll farm out, what components, tools you’ll need, etc), AND stick to it thru to the end. I’ve seen too many start, go in nother direction, go off, come back, etc. The result is a waste of time’n money, a hack job in the end. Sometimes its justa buncha bolt-ons. I guess in many ways it means they did not do the 1st phase well (research)? May B no clarity on final application? 1 or other/both could do that. What is the rig capable of. Opposite: what do I want out of it? What octane, 80% of RPMs, traffic (if a DD) conditions, driving & (with the bronk if so used) off rd conditions?
Many (used to) buy a bronk (not good at anything, ok @ several) as it was so easy to mod (there goes resale). And they improved that off rd capacity. Some foolishly attempt ‘race car’. They turned (less so today?) them into toys (K bar S, Chuck wuz in Cali, Duff in Sequim -days). Internet came (early 90s) and prices started to rise. Major market right now is buying new unassembled bronk parts and making something that ford never did. Chit, it’s justa jeep... But not to these - its an "icon”. If I were to do a 4th bronk I’d go even more rest0 & less mod (It would have the 4.9 efi ThriftPower tho) probably as I want something to serve in bringing me an income during ownership. A 4dor might B an idea too (longer WB = ⬆︎towing capacity). aahahahahahaa [rant over]
 
I like the idea of the restomod. That makes sense. Trying to keep it as authentic as possible but modified for daily traffic use.
Not to throw a wrench in your plans but just FYI. . That Rochester Monojet carb is as good a 1 barrel as there is. Turn it around and the linkage and orientation is correct. . Easy to put a kit in, and the triple venturi design will be very hard to beat for economy.
 
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