MSD ignition upgrade process

[Anonymous]

Is it really worth changing to the MSD blaster 2 coil without doing the module upgrade? Can you use the D II cap and wires and still get any benefit? I did the changeover to D II many moons ago. I have two plugs that are giving me a fit with white deposit fouling about every 3000 miles and I am using Autolite 46's. Is there any plug hotter? The other plugs look fine. I can't seem to find one, so my option was to try to make the spark hotter. I just need to do this a step at a time, not the whole changeover. I know I will probably rebuild in a year or so, but just trying to get by until then. It doesn't use much oil (1qt/ 3000 miles) but it all must go in those two pistons and out the front seal. It doesn't have a noticeable smoke either.

 

[Alabama65stang]

I don't know if a hotter spark will help or not. I had the DSII with the stock DSII module and when I went to the Blaster coil, I couldn't tell any difference. Later I added the MSD 6a module and noticed a big difference in the way it ran, mileage and plug condition.

Another thought on your plug deposits, do you have you PCV hose plumbed to the manifold on the log or under the carb. I had mine plumbed to the manifold near the #1 and #2 cylinders and those plugs always built up trash. Moved it below the carb and fixed that problem.

 

[Anonymous]

A MSD box, like the 6A, will fire plugs even if you submerge them in oil, so YES going to MSD will fix your problems. You don't have to change the coil if you don't want to.

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy Ducktang and All:

If your problem is that only two plugs are fouling, focus on identifying the cause for the fouling. For what you'd spend on the MSD 6A upgrade you could buy alot of spark plugs.

AlabamaStang already mentioned the PCV plumbing as a posibility. Other things to consider are weak or leaking plug wires to those cylinders, bad valve stem seals, a very slow gasket leak. Look for the cause and idenitfy before applying solutions.

Which two plugs are fouling?

Adios, David

 

[Anonymous]

I have the pcv hose plumbed right under the carb. I replaced the valve seals not long ago and that helped. I have about 100k on the engine right now and cylinders 3 and 5 have always gave me a fit since I rebuilt it. I plan on rebuilding again in the future, just trying to get by until then. It isn't a big deal to pop out those two and knock the deposits off, just aggravating. I have tried Autolites 45,46 and the champion rj18yc ( something like that, but I know it was the 18 ). Any other suggestion on the plug I could try?

 

[Anonymous]

Motorcraft BRF92 are pretty hot.
I also have some NGK V-groove plugs, but not sure what the heat reange is.

 

[wsa111]

Ducktang, yes the msd-6a or any msd is light years above the standard duraspark.

For best results use the adapter right from the duraspark to the msd via the available msd adapter. That way you don't even need the ford module.

I have a spark plug in mind, but its an iridium plug from ngk. WR51X - 7510. These plugs cost about $7.00 apiece but they are superior in high performance design & last for over 60,000 miles. If thats too rich for your blood try accel #378. Both plugs work great The ngk's have the pin center electrode for better flame in the chamber. William

 

[Anonymous]

The NGK plugs I have are WR5. I guess they are about as hot as any other 200 six plug that you can buy (searched NGK cross reference)

 

[wsa111]

Linc, I think the WR5 plugs are the regular ngk plugs in the same heat range as the iridium plugs I posted but a heck of a lot cheaper.

The autolite ap-46p is a great plug but it projects so far into the combustion chamber that is just picks up all the contaminates from leaky rings,valve guides & rings that did not seat or are worn out. At 100,000 miles I think you may be getting desposits from the worn rings?? William

 

[Anonymous]

That is the craziest thing about this engine is that since I completely rebuilt it, it has always used 1 qt every 3000 miles. I had it bored, new pistons, crank turned, new timing gears, head trued and new valves with new guides, new cam and all. The only thing not new or reworked inside is the bearing caps. The only thing I can think of is that the rings never really seated well on those two cylinders or I put the oil rings in upside down?. The compression is the same on all, don't exactly remember what. So, that is why I wanted to try some different plugs other than what I have already tried. I have tried the ap46p and it didn't help much. I may go get some of those WR5's and see how they work on those two cylinders and see if they make a difference. We need to get a plug reference chart put together and put it on the sticky post.

 

[JackFish]

I had it bored, new pistons, crank turned, new timing gears, head trued and new valves with new guides, new cam and all.

What about teflon valve seals?