My 200 EFI Turbo build ('65 Econoline)

[bmbm40]

That should be a 1969 head with 1.75" carb bore, flat topped log with 1240 cc intake manifold volume. Intake valve is 1.649" and the exhaust is 1.38".

 

[RichCreations]

That should be a 1969 head with 1.75" carb bore, flat topped log with 1240 cc intake manifold volume. Intake valve is 1.649" and the exhaust is 1.38".

Do you know what chamber volume it would have had?

EDIT: Never mind, I guess it is 62cc (thankfully!)

 

[xctasy]

Familiar with it. I used the ECU systems for data logging my road roughness prox sensors. Actually, josh, 64 200 ranchero, showed it to us way back when as a servo controller in 2012. He was looking at it for secondary carb operation.

Its nothing short of a control systems revolution. I used two 4 thousand dollar data loggers and got one 65 dollar item to do a similar job.

My wife said nyet to playing with the lawn mower like this guy

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cLTlyO0wmvk

The CFI systems from 80 to about 96 were pretty good, the difficult ones were the Motorcraft CFI, because the development was tied not into fuel only, but Fuel and ingition, and the operation of the CFI/TBI was on some versions tied into some really advanced ingition and EEC/MCU engine systems. There were 14 versions of the Ford 2-BBL CFI from 1980 to 1985, and if you follow the tech services bulletens, they work really well. Problem is, you have to apply the lost art of carb tuning with the new art of brain dead EEC fault codes, and then use your nauce to solve the engine idle issues. Ford really aced the class on these systems, but for 30 odd years, people haven't understood how a choke pulloff and EGR system works, or that EECIII controlls things differently to EECIV, and within EECIV, some CFI's didn't even have isc motors.. We've got guys who have done it all, but its taken years to dig into it, and all the evidence is that people didn't follow the service memos. Even understanding the terminlogy (a motor isn't just a wound electric inductor to make current into motion, but a vacuum pot or flapper valve which operates to certain conditions).

So we had a total failure in 1980 to 1995 becasue people refused to distill out the relavant parts from 200 page service manuals spanning 5 to 15 years. To this day, you'll go on line and find one brief on six different types of Ford fuel delivery system from 1980 to 1985, and no bodies got a jolly clue. The detail is generic, and basically useless untill you talk with maybee one good guy whos been there and done it, and suddenly, you find whole attic of great info.

I'm lucky to have had access to Americas smartest technciains and mechanics, many on this forum, who have shared the info to us all.


Enjoy the work you do. I'd say MPG Mustang was the closest to getting a bolt on EFI system nailed up real good.


Open source coding will help you out. I'd look also at running three Tempo CFI's as three injectors. The injector controll is the same as the EECIV 1988-1991 Ford Falcon CFI, and it used a Nissan VQ30E Pathfinder CFI unit, and it was just two Chrysler K car TBI's.

See /viewtopic.php?f=51&t=74346


Aussies are the ones who have got it sorted becuase they are more six cylinder orientated than anyone else in the world. The key goodie with this is the lack of runtime errors that I had to work around on my 8 bit data loggers I used from 2003 to 2009, and even the 16 bits from 2010 to 2015.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lcwrLTaYJ_o

EFI engine based on 45 year old 1969 2V Kent 1600 Ford Capri

 

[RichCreations]

Familiar with it. I used the ECU systems for data logging my road roughness prox sensors. Actually, josh, 64 200 ranchero, showed it to us way back when as a servo controller in 2012. He was looking at it for secondary carb operation.

It has come a long way in just this last year, to the point of being a fully functioning EFI system...

some CFI's didn't even have isc motors..

Yeah, the CFI throttle body I am using is one of those, plain old fashioned bi-metal strip choke element, controlling a fast idle cam.

I'd look also at running three Tempo CFI's as three injectors. The injector controll is the same as the EECIV 1988-1991 Ford Falcon CFI, and it used a Nissan VQ30E Pathfinder CFI unit, and it was just two Chrysler K car TBI's.

Well, I am not modifying my intake, so it will be just one throttle body, I already have the CFI, and the adapter needed to bolt it on, the injectors are about the correct size, etc...

 

[xctasy]

The 5.0 HO M vin code automatic CFI is my favorite system, hugely under rated. If pressure is bumped up from the stock 39 psi, its possiable to use 96 lb per hour in jectors and make enough fuel suplly for a 5 liter engine making 350 hp.

Stock injector flow is 185 hp, plenty to get what you need.

 

[RichCreations]

The 5.0 HO M vin code automatic CFI is my favorite system, hugely under rated. If pressure is bumped up from the stock 39 psi, its possiable to use 96 lb per hour in jectors and make enough fuel suplly for a 5 liter engine making 350 hp.

Stock injector flow is 185 hp, plenty to get what you need.

I got the throttle body from a thunder chicken at pick N pull, but swapped the injectors for the HO ones.

 

[RichCreations]

well, I finished the fabrication for the missing tooth trigger wheel for my EFI/distributer-less setup, and have it mounted to my crank pulley:

 

[64 200 ranchero]

That's very cool!

 

[RichCreations]

That's very cool!

Thanks!

 

[RichCreations]

Just an update, I got my flywheel ground, head milled flat, 3 angle valve job, ARP rod bolts installed, and the rods resized, and now I am ready to get the crank ground, and the whole thing balanced. When I get the rotating assembly back, I will put it together, measure my deck height, and have the block zero decked (it is already bored/honed/etc...)

 

[RichCreations]

UPS guy came with goodies!

 

[bubba22349]

You can use the 2.3 stub in place of the distributor only slight mod required. Good luck

Please tell me more!

Well Somehow I must of missed your above request before RichCreations, hope it's not too late to help you but anyway here you go. There is a great post by thesameguy in “Electrical, Audio, and Electronics “ section with details of his build of a stand alone EDIS system for his small block Ford six. In his write up he also shows how to mod the 2.3 distributor stub for use in his small Ford six engine. Enjoy

forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=67718

 

[CoupeBoy]

Rich
Apparently I've been sleeping on the job and missed this thread somehow. I am currently in need of a EFI/Timing for a little project I picked up a couple weeks ago.
Zetec -- FordSix Forum
My little motor has no option other than digital/electronic ignition.
So far the items I've found for sale for Arduino have been reasonable for example
ARDUINO STARTER KIT -- Official Ardunio Store $99.90
Digi-Key, which is based out of Thief River Falls MN (2.5 hours north of me) has a warehouse here in Fargo, and they also have several Arduino boards and components.
ARDUINO UNO SMD REV3 $21.54

What is the best starter point for somebody with NO Arduino experience if they want to learn about Speeduino?

I don't usually disagree with Mr. xctasy, but this time I need to correct him.

I know Ford tests its cars for Death Valley heat and Rocky Mountain altidue and Alaska cold,

The wikipedia page for Ford Proving Grounds does not list ANY Alaska test sites, what it does list is
Extreme Cold Weather Test Facility (ECWTF) - Thompson, Manitoba
And only a few short hours east of me...

Cold Climate Test Facility - Bemidji, Minnesota[edit]
Stats: Avg. temps are −30 °F (−34 °C) to +10F during winter months
Major facilities: Cold start positions, snow ingestion building
Major testing: Cold weather starting/drives, snow ingestion

 

[RichCreations]

Rich
Apparently I've been sleeping on the job and missed this thread somehow. I am currently in need of a EFI/Timing for a little project I picked up a couple weeks ago.
Zetec -- FordSix Forum
My little motor has no option other than digital/electronic ignition.
So far the items I've found for sale for Arduino have been reasonable for example
ARDUINO STARTER KIT -- Official Ardunio Store $99.90
Digi-Key, which is based out of Thief River Falls MN (2.5 hours north of me) has a warehouse here in Fargo, and they also have several Arduino boards and components.
ARDUINO UNO SMD REV3 $21.54

What is the best starter point for somebody with NO Arduino experience if they want to learn about Speeduino?

Well, Speeduino requires an arduino mega 2560, as it is a lot more powerful then a normal arduino, I personally use a sainsmart brand clone
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CF2REXC..._m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1SBTYG39NKHQD8VP70MK

You will also need the speeduino board, that connects to the arduino, available here:
https://speeduino.com/shop/index.php?id_product=8&controller=product

 

[chad]

no an english major by a long shot but:

"for" not "at" (or "in") could have some difference in context here?

 

[CoupeBoy]

Well, Speeduino requires an arduino mega 2560, as it is a lot more powerful then a normal arduino, I personally use a sainsmart brand clone
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CF2REXC..._m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1SBTYG39NKHQD8VP70MK

You will also need the speeduino board, that connects to the arduino, available here:
https://speeduino.com/shop/index.php?id_product=8&controller=product

And the associated components to solder onto the board...
Speeduino v0.3 Component Kit $95 (out of stock)

With the Mega, is there any other components that are necessary to buy?
I know you said you like the SainSmart brand, but if they are functionally the same, why would you pay nearly twice as much when you could buy this one?
Ieik Mega 2560 R3 ATmega2560-16AU + ATMEGA16U2 + USB Cable for Robot Arduino UNO MEGA2560 R3 Duemilanove 2013 $12.98 vs $20.99 (both offer free shipping)

If everything you listed was bought
$17.50 for the Speeduino board
$95 for the components for the speeduino board
$20.99 for the Mega2560
$133.49 for a controller is very reasonable (assuming still that a person has to solder together the speeduino)

 

[RichCreations]

Well, Speeduino requires an arduino mega 2560, as it is a lot more powerful then a normal arduino, I personally use a sainsmart brand clone
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CF2REXC..._m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1SBTYG39NKHQD8VP70MK

You will also need the speeduino board, that connects to the arduino, available here:
https://speeduino.com/shop/index.php?id_product=8&controller=product

And the associated components to solder onto the board...
Speeduino v0.3 Component Kit $95 (out of stock)

With the Mega, is there any other components that are necessary to buy?
I know you said you like the SainSmart brand, but if they are functionally the same, why would you pay nearly twice as much when you could buy this one?
Ieik Mega 2560 R3 ATmega2560-16AU + ATMEGA16U2 + USB Cable for Robot Arduino UNO MEGA2560 R3 Duemilanove 2013 $12.98 vs $20.99 (both offer free shipping)

If everything you listed was bought
$17.50 for the Speeduino board
$95 for the components for the speeduino board
$20.99 for the Mega2560
$133.49 for a controller is very reasonable (assuming still that a person has to solder together the speeduino)

Remember, the prices you quoted for the speeduino board, and parts are in AUD, so it is actually even cheaper (parts are about $70 direct from digikey)

Any mega should work, as long as it is not one with a ch340 chip instead of the 16U... Many lie in the description, but only the 16U ones will work with tuner studio

 

[RichCreations]

I scored a New Old Stock Master Cylinder for my Econoline! Installed this morning, working great!
[image]http://i.imgur.com/bGKnMVa.jpg[/image]

 

[CoupeBoy]

That thing looks peculiar.
And I've already seen the stock transmission crossmember and mount.

 

[RichCreations]

That thing looks peculiar.
And I've already seen the stock transmission crossmember and mount.

Well, it does go under the drivers floor, and the pedal mounts to it, and it faces "backwards" (brake line connects to rear) LOL... Trans crossmember? I don't have one, the trans "hangs" from the frame...