Need a 2" exhaust head pipe 200 or 250

Frankenstang

1K+
VIP
Subscriber
Robert, you need a 68 & above exhaust manifold which has the 2" outlet, your 66 only has a 1 3/4" outlet.

The money you put in a 68 manifold, could be better spent on a set of headers.

If you go the single pipe route go to at least a 2 1/2" headpipe to the muffler, if you go duals use 2" headpipes. Bill
 
wsa111":r2n97jrl said:
Robert, you need a 68 & above exhaust manifold which has the 2" outlet, your 66 only has a 1 3/4" outlet.

The money you put in a 68 manifold, could be better spent on a set of headers.

Bill thanks for the reply! Unfortunatley that horse is already out of the barn :oops: ...as I picked up this manifold last fall cause I thought I was getting a good deal (bit cheaper than MU), and would improve flow
3.3 200 FORD MUSTANG NEW EXHAUST MANIFOLD

While it does measure 2in at the flange, and does have the heavier mounting bosses on the left side of the outlet, you can see in these pics that it is only two inches right at the opening, and necks down inside the outlet pipe.


Also I purchased a 2in I/O borla turbo around the same time. My thought was at this point to just go with 2in all the way since I already committed :oops: ...egg allover my face on this one. However, since I'm also married to the high dollar one barrel for the forseeable future, my hope (mostly based on some input from David S) was this would at least give improvement over what I have now...but I'm still open to suggestions.

I'd prefer to keep the system routed straight down the passenger side with muffler tucked under rear seat pan and then out...hopefully making the most of what I've got at this point, and would rather assemble the head, intermediate and tailpipe myself to save some $, knowing I can get the second two pieces from a standard dual bent8 setup. Between the muffler, manifold and purty tuning tip I'm all in for ~$250 so far...so I don't think it was a horrible deal, but yeah approaching that header price.

So given all that, any idea on what year/model head pipe would give me 2" routing down the passenger side?

PS this is kinda a rehash, but lost track of the old thread and never could find out which head pipe I needed
 
Frankenstang":109btvq7 said:
While it does measure 2in at the flange, and does have the heavier mounting bosses on the left side of the outlet, you can see in these pics that it is only two inches right at the opening, and necks down inside the outlet pipe.
I can't help you with any guidance on headpipes, but I can tell you that it's pretty easy to open up the inside of that manifold with an air-powered rotary tool and a carbide burr.

Long time ago I posted a thread on DIY exhaust manifold porting, but it seems to be MIA now. The pics I used are here: http://s23.photobucket.com/albums/b391/jamyers/Porting/
 
just got to ask ,, how is the 1100 working out? i just got 1 for the van moter i got underway

i like the way it squirts , bet it would be great on a 3 carb setup
charlie
 
Thanks jamyers, great pics! :thumbup: The thought had crossed my mind, but that clinches it. I'm definitely going to do some mild porting on this one with a burr grinder to make the most of the 2in. I could swear the engine is running well enough these days that I expect to see some notable benefit from improving the flow as much as resonable given my plans/purchases. IIRC the new 1100 is supposed to icrease cfm over the original...at least I believe I more clearly notice the restrictiveness of the 1.75 setup nowadays.

Charlie, I am very pleased with the new 1 barrel from pony at this point. I don't know if I noticed a big seat of the pants improvement in performance (wish I had my final gearing established and were driving enough regular miles to give some real world mpg's) but I gotta say it runs smoother (just flat out smooth...zero bogs, hesitations or stumbles) throughout the entire range now...even did away with a very very mild stumble at idle that I could never seem to adjust/tune out of either of the last two 1100's I had run (had been chocking it up to a very slightly worn lifter or lobe). I did have to send it back originally because of an issue with the float, but that could've been because mine was an early one (July 08)...I think they had a couple bugs early on, but all is right now. It was a bit disappointing at the time (as I guess any issue would be when you've shelled out that kind of cash), but I must say I'd love to see a tri-power with three of the new annular booster 1100's. :nod: Pony oughta sponsor Mike or someone up here on a setup given the outlay...great advertising :hmmm:

Now if I can just locate a 2in head pipe I'll be set...I guess if all else fails I can take it to the muffler shop...wish the folks at CJ could tell you (specs) what they're selling you :roll: .
 
Frankenstang,
My '68 falcon has the head pipe come down and the exhaust goes down the passenger side. Try www.macsauto.com I have his falcon book and I remember there were diagrams of the exhaust systems and he sold piece by piece exhaust kits. I'm not sure if a Falcon headpipe would work in your mustang. Hopefully someone can help you more than I did.

Stephen
 
Frankenstang":2icv0yxz said:
Thanks jamyers, great pics! :thumbup: The thought had crossed my mind, but that clinches it. I'm definitely going to do some mild porting on this one with a burr grinder to make the most of the 2in.
...
You're welcome :beer: Don't forget to match the manifold to the gasket, there's usually a TON of extra material that can be removed.

Clearly, precision casting (or anything near it) was NOT on Ford's priority list for 6-cylinder engines. :bang:
 
I used the 68-70 headpipe from cj's , it ends behind the front seat area, passenger side, my manifold is the same as yours, I mated mine to a 68 v8 intermediate made for use with the transverse muffler, then a dual outlet muffler behind the axle. If you want to go the single route the 68-70 route is a good starting point its pretty much the same shape as the stock 6 cylinder 66' exhaust that I removed from my car. Will try to post some pics soon.
 
'68falconohio":2j8ejcwn said:
Frankenstang,
My '68 falcon has the head pipe come down and the exhaust goes down the passenger side. Try http://www.macsauto.com
Thanks for the tip Stephen. I could'nt find any exhaust system parts via their search this morning, but that could be computer or operator error...I'll have to take a closer look and/or give them a call (I see their stuff on ebay all the time...pretty reasonable).

sixpony":2j8ejcwn said:
I used the 68-70 headpipe from cj's , it ends behind the front seat area, passenger side, my manifold is the same as yours, I mated mine to a 68 v8 intermediate made for use with the transverse muffler, then a dual outlet muffler behind the axle. If you want to go the single route the 68-70 route is a good starting point its pretty much the same shape as the stock 6 cylinder 66' exhaust that I removed from my car. Will try to post some pics soon.

Thanks sixpony, a pic would be great if you have the time, but that is exaclty what I'm looking for...a 2in head pipe that stays routed down the passenger side...I'm surprised it goes that far ("ends behind the front seat area"), which may mean I would not need a full length intermediate, but I'll cross that bridge when I come to it. I still plan to use the turbo muffler straight in line with the rest of the system (not transverse) to try and make it as free flowing as possible (the borla seems to be very free flowing and from what I've heard should have a nice but not too loud exhaust note)...along with the exhaust porting, I'm looking to milk every last bit of flow I can out this 2in setup. Appreciate y'alls help :thumbup:
 
Just curious - isn't there a decent muffler shop nearby? Seems you could have them make what you want for way less $.
 
Yeah Robert, you're right about the headpipe, I think it does end in the front flooboard area, but it is on the pass side where the stock system was. The stock system used a transverse muffler too but it exited on the passenger side so if you want to use the borla in a single then a muffler shop is probably your best bet , if you have a welder you might use premade bends and straight pieces from a parts store , this is what I did for my tailpipes but it probably cost more than a muffler shop would have , I'm just a stubborn ol fart, I like the fact that no one but me has turned a wrench on my car since I've owned her! lol :wink:
 
jamyers":25csbdas said:
Just curious - isn't there a decent muffler shop nearby? Seems you could have them make what you want for way less $.

Well, sixpony took the words right out of my mouth...

sixpony":25csbdas said:
...I like the fact that no one but me has turned a wrench on my car since I've owned her! lol :wink:

And as for any similarity to a 'stubborn ol fart' myself, I'm progressing rapidly through the training program :lol:

Actually the last time I 'allowed' someone else to do any work on her was probably about 13 years ago when I had all the tie rod ends & drag link replaced. Being able to do it myself is always a big plus for me, and clamping it together could be of benefit in the future when I complete some chasis rehab around the rearend, or should I want to tweek the routing. Although exhaust and alignment are probably the only two things I could be alright with farming out. So if I do opt to have the A&B muffler guys (good exhaust shops in dfw metroplex btw) I'd at least feel more comfortable taking it there with a head pipe in place vs. running open manifold...I don't think I could trust even the best shop in town with installing the manifold.

Thanks for the update on the length sixpony, that sounds like it is going to do the trick.
 
Back
Top