Need help on Tri cab linkage

mustang652

Well-known member
Did a "dry" fit on the Offy 3X1 adapter on the "old" unmodified head today and have it running, obvioulsy only on the the center carb with the old linkage bypasing the Offy linkage and a jury rigged fuel line to bypass the triple feed lines which will be used when machine shop work is complete. . I Need some ideas on how to build the accelerator linkage for the Offy 3X1. Due to some setbacks on ths project and the related costs, I'd like to stay with the original pedal and rod if possible, even though I figure that the rod will have to be modified, bent, and or cut. The current rod crosses from the drivers side befind the motor and then comes forward on the passenger side to the middle of the block.
 
Did you not get the Offy linkage with the intake? Years ago I did this conversion and mine came with progressive linkage that hooked right up to the stock throttle rod on my 68 stang.
 
Guess I didn't explain it very well. I got and have installed the progressive linkage to the individual carbs, What I need ideas on how to connect that linkage to the accelerator rod. It also came with a lone additional connector for the arm of the center carb in two pieces with a connector to join the togather and a short piece of tubing.
 
"What I need ideas on how to connect that linkage to the accelerator rod. It also came with a lone additional connector for the arm of the center carb in two pieces with a connector to join the togather and a short piece of tubing."

THis picture may not help you much but I want to know if your setup looks like this one from the Six Performance engine I'm researching. Looks like the arm links to center pivot between primary and secondary fulcrums.

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Powerband
 
The attached is what I have. The accelerator rod and the rod connecting it to the carb have white electrical tape on them just to highlight them for the photo. What do I do to modify that rod to attach it to the connectding rod of the center carb

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Let me dig up my old pictures when I get home. I basically made my own adaptor. It was just cheap aluminum 1" flat stock, measured from the neutral position of the accelerator to the nuetral of the Offy linkage. Then I just bought a few miscellanous fitting (ball joins, pins, etc) and made it where it woudl pivot properly. It had a slight angle on it so it would clear the linkage.

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BTW, don't use NYLOC bolts as a way to make a bolt like a pin. Trust me...it melts around the exhaust, the nut backs off, and you have no throttle at a green light...not that that would ever happen to me.
 
I used the original likage and mated it up to the offy linkage. I didn't have to modify it much. I took it out of the car and heated it up and bent it, tested it, bent it some more. Unfortunately I am somewhat retarded when ti comes to posting pictures here, but if you pm me your e-mail I can easily send you some pictures.

Bill
 
Thanks Bill. Thats exactlly what I ended up doing. After considering the suggestions and reviewing the few pictures that I could find, I ended up removing the rod and rebending it. Sounds like it took me me several more attempts to get the bends where I wanted than what you did. As the final adjustment, I bent the final four inches of the rod upwards at a 90 degree angle to get rid of the flex it created on the carb linkage. I do need to find a stronger spring to install between the center and front outboard to assist in the return and help commpletly close the outboard throttles. I'd still want to see what you've done so I'll pm my email address. I'll try to take a better close up later when the light is better and do the same
Stan
 
I used the stock rod and the open ended one in the kit and bent the factory one until it cleared everything. The only problem I had was that the pedal couldn't travel far enough to go full throttle. I had to bend the pedal arm under the dash for more travel and I had to massage the hole in the firewall a bit for clearance. I too am stupid with posting pics,but could easily e-mail ya some. I got my air cleaners from JC Whitney's vw catalog. The opening for the solex carb happened to be the same!
 
Thanks for the imput. Just checked the rod again as I havent had the time to test drive, and I'll have to do as you suggest. The overall height of the accelerator pedal does look a little low to give WOT. I think I'm going to have to pull it one more time and put the heat to it. Got to admit that after six pulls and partial reinstalls to check the clearances and distance to the carbureator rod, I'm getting pretty good at it. Will also look at the hole through the firewall at the same time. That just might save me another pull and reinstall.

Thanks again
 
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