Need Some Tips....

[Slipknotcc]

Hey guys,

I just recently got a new in box cylinder head for my 200. Now i've done work on my engine and know my way around things but i have a few questions. What type of prep work do I need to do on the head before installation? Should i have to adjust the valves? Or can i just bolt it on and go about my way? Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Cory

 

[rbohm]

8) if you have the adjustable rocker arms, then you adjust the valves after you install them, if you have the non adjustable rocker arms, then you just bolt them on. as for other prep work, make sure all the freeze plugs are installed.

 

[Slipknotcc]

Ok cool thanks. Anyone know offhand what i torque the head bolts to with the torque wrench? Also what do you guys recommend for gasket sealant and thread sealer. I just want to make sure I do this correctly the first time and not have to start all over.

Thanks,
Cory

 

[Bradbutlernc]

Torque spec is 85-100 IIRC. What kind of wheels are those?

 

[rbohm]

Ok cool thanks. Anyone know offhand what i torque the head bolts to with the torque wrench? Also what do you guys recommend for gasket sealant and thread sealer. I just want to make sure I do this correctly the first time and not have to start all over.

Thanks,
Cory

8) what sealant you use depends on the gasket you are using, and where it is. for instance if you are using a steel shim head gasket, then i like to use copper coat sealant on the gasket, but if you are using a composite head gasket, you use NO sealer. for valve covers i like to use 3M weatherstrip adhesive and glue the gasket to the valve cover, and leave the other side dry. that way you can pull the valve cover without ruining the gasket. with exhaust manifold gaskets i either use nothing, or i put a THIN coat of permatex copper rtv on both sides of the gasket. with most other gaskets, except anywhere gasoline normally flows, i put a THIN coat of black rtv on each side of the gasket before i assemble the part.

i emphasize thin coats of the rtv as you dont need much to seal the gasket, and too much will cause problems. and you dont want to use rtv where fuel runs as the rtv will break down into a jell like substance, and will really cause problems, like stuck valves for instance.

 

[JackFish]

Torque spec is 85-100 IIRC.

:nono:
Three stages, 55, 65, then 75.

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy Cory:

I noticed you're in Hemet. We winter there at the Golden Village Palms RV complex. I'll have to keep an eye out for you cruising Florida.

To further respond to your questions about your nos head;
Q- "What type of prep work do I need to do on the head before installation?"

A- You would be wise to have the head inspected by a valve machinist to ensure that the seats are correctly angled, the deck surface is flat, and the chamber volumes are correct for the year

Q- "Should I have to adjust the valves?"

A- If by adjusting the valves, you mean depth of seat, or seat angles, or... Again, the answer is yes. Even with new stuff, it is best to not assume anything. IT will be easier and cheaper to check it out now and be sure rather than later. You may guess that I don't have much faith is a factory valve job. This New-in-the-box head may be a "Service Replacement" which doesn't generate any more confidence.

Q- Or can I just bolt it on and go about my way?

A- As rbohm said, "yes", you can "just bolt it on", but that would not be best. The issue of replacement head gasket thickness should be addressed in the change over. That would entail disassemble for milling and a perfect time to assess valves and seats.

A couple of questions- What is the casting code on the new head? What is your intent? Stock? Improved performance?

For example, The stock head gasket is a steel shim type @ .025" thickness. A stock '67 has a rated CR of 9.2:1 with 52 cc combustion chambers. Steel shim head gaskets are no longer available. The composite type replacement gasket is .045" to .055" thick depending on maker. The new gasket does not require any sealer and still they seal much better than the steel gasket. To maintain stock CR a head must be milled the difference of thickness.

Akt a new stock head will likely have a single 45 degree angle on the seat and the valve face. A performance valve job will have at least a three angle seat and have a second angle of 30 degrees on the valve. This is known as a back-cutting the valve. These steps will make a difference in how well your engine can breathe.

Again, it will be cheaper and easier to do these steps now, while the head is off, than later. Once you have the head ready and valve job gasket set on hand you'll be ready for an afternoon adventure. FYI, the valve job gasket set will have new valve stem seal- also a good freshening on an old nos head. Who knows the age of the seals on the head. Rubber drys out in time, so I'd replace them as cheap insurance.

Where is you find a NOS head? Keep the info coming.

Adios, David