New guy piecing together a 200

[mcthirsty]

I have a 200 & 2.77 from a '66 stang I'm trying to get running. It was pulled 6 yrs ago and replaced with a 5.0, supposedly ran good but alot of small parts got thrown away.

The carb is missing the plastic auto choke housing (autolite 1100). With this gone, will it creat a vacuum leak? I can't seem to find a replacement.

I also need a water pump pulley - any idea who sells those? Also if anyone has a slip yoke for the 2.77 3-speed, I would be interested.

Thanks!

 

[MPGmustang]

Welcome Mcthirsty!
Where you from, there might be ppl around that know where to get it locally.

I recommend Junkyard shopping, take your time and take pictures of what you find and compare to other junkyards, what kind if distributor do you have, affects the choices of carbs, a autolite 1100 has a scv that gives vacum to a loadomatic distributor, if possible junkyard shop for a different distrubutor and you'll gain more fuel economy and power. remember to grab everything like wires and the box... others can help in that area

I got luck with a pully at my local mustang shop here in AZ.

I would try a transmission shop or a driveshaft place for the yoke, I'm sure it's easy to come accross.

GL and welcome to FSP forum!!

Richard

 

[fordconvert]

The choke is always a vacuum leak so not having the coil there is not really going to change that issue. I got a new one at my local napa a couple years ago and it was about $15 IIRC. I looked online and there are several listed and the listings dont make sense. I may have just took the old one in and found one that fit. The diameter and the type of hook on the spring are all that is important. They are very similar on most carbs even across brands and years till they went to electric in the mid 70's. You can even get an electric one if you want. You just have to watch which voltage you get. The original ford ones were more like 7 volts and ran off a special wire on the alternator. Aftermarket and GM were 12v and usually ran off an oil pressure switch so the choke would not begin to unwind till the engine was actually running.

You can also buy this manual kit if thats how you want to go. Its from Dorman #55101. Most stores carry them under the HELP! name or under their own like Napa's balkamp line. One trick about going from auto to manual choke is for everything to work properly you need to step on the pedal and then pull the choke so it can get onto high idle. Other catch is these kits are designed for V engines so you have to get creative and come up with some of your own mounting on an inline.

Dorman also has all the other choke bits like the tube and even a box that you can clamp onto headers or the down pipe if yours is missing or damaged.

 

[mcthirsty]

Thanks! I'll check into it...