New valve springs in (and electric fuel pump)

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Just wanted to let you know that I got my new valve springs in without to much heartache last night (took a few hours for a first-timer). Once I realized I could get more coils into the compressor to give me more room to get the keepers in and out, it was much easier :oops: .

Still have to run her on the open road to tell for sure, but it sure seems to run better. I'll no more once I can open her up a bit.

I was hoping that getting the new springs in and having the valve adjustment right would yield a better compression reading on the #1 cyl. Unfortunately, that's not the case. Looks like I'm down to either blown head gasket (no other symptoms like overheating or bubbly coolant though) or a wiped cam :( . Still trying to track down a dial meter so I can check the lift.

I also was having an issue with low fuel pressure. It was reading only about 3psi and my Holley needs more like 6-7. I put a carter electric pump in back by the tank and that seems to have done the trick. it's back up to 6-7ish where it belongs.

One bite at a time...
 
Bryce, Keep an eye on your #1 cylinder it maybe a victum of proper valve spring tension? Lets hope so.
Glad to hear you got the deal running. William
 
That's what I was hoping William. I thought maybe with the old worn out springs, my preload was too high or something along those lines reading low compression. But I'm still getting a low reading.

When you say keep an eye on it, what should I be doing?
 
Well, don't know yet if it's just #1. I only threw the tester on it last minute tonight. I'll check the rest of them tomorrow. I was having low readings on #1 and #4 with slightly lower numbers on #3 if I remember correctly. i thought maybe the headgasket went on the outside of #1 (which would be why #2 was @ 190) and between 3 and 4 causing 3 to be down a bit and 4 taking the brunt of it.

What's involved in a leakdown test? I could also do a wet test right to see if the rings where failing. Is that just like a teaspoon of oil into the plug hole and retest?
 
Could be the valve. We lapped them when installing them.
 
OK, i read up on the leakdown test. I obviously don't have the leakdown gauge, but here's the thing. I bought the fitting adapter to apply compressed air to the cylinder when changing the springs to keep the valves from disappearing. I hooked it up to #1 and pressurized the cylinder. When I did, I could hear the air escaping. I thought it might have been coming from the plug hole itself like the fitting was not seated. Maybe that's not the case.

So, can I just hook the compressor back up and turn it on (taking care to secure the crank and all that of course) to see what I can "hear"? I should be listening around the throttle body, head gasket, and exhaust pipes right? How much PSI should I set my compressor to?
 
Bryce, hook up your air compressor, use at least 100#. Then open the throttle & listen for air from the carb throat, if you hear air coming out the intake-make sure the valve is closed, or better yet back off the adjuster on both rocker arms of #1 cylinder, then go to the exhaust pipe thats hooked to #1 header, next pull the breather off on the valve cover, Listen, also pull the radiator cap & see if bubbles appear in the tank.
Advise on your findings. William
 
Test is on tap for tonight when I get home. Thanks guys.

In general, if I get air from the carb or exhaust, it's badly seating valves. If I get air from the oil filler, it's rings, and if I get bubbles in the coolant, it's head gasket right?
 
Bryce, When you had the stock valve springs You probably floated the valves. You may have done some damage then. By the way i see you bought crow springs. What seat pressure do you have?
You should have at least 100# seat pressure with the high rate of lift ground into these modern cams. gone are the days of 50# seat pressure.
If you plan to twist these engines to 6000 rpms you better have the proper spring pressure. Even clifford says your cam warranty is void if you don't use our recommended spring pressure which in there case is 110# on the seat.
Give a shout when you find your compression leak. William
 
:cry: pressure out the oil filler in the valve cover

rings problem then eh? Someone mentioned that running very rich too long "washes" the cylinder walls. Could this be the case? i was very rich for quite a while.

My compression test results from before were:
1 130
2 180
3 140
4 160
5 180
6 180

I haven't recheked them all, but #1 was still around 130.

What are my likely causes?

These springs are rated at 100# seat pressure
 
Bryce, you have 2 choices, if the engine does not burn oil, you could monitor the compression. If you do use oil you need to pull the pistons,rehone the cylinders & install new rings, while at the same time stop the flow of oil from the pcv area & or valve guide seals. Since you have to pull the head have positive valve seals installed by a competent machine shop. I am glad you installed the correct valve springs for the camshaft you have in your engine. 50# on the seat doesn't get it anymore. William
 
the engine burns no oil. I don't understand how I could be losing pressure past the rings and NOT be burning oil. Should I try an additive?
 
Have you done a "wet" test? put a little oil into each cylinder and repeat the compresson check. If #1 & 3 come up considerably, you have a ring problem. If they do not, you have a valve or gasket problem.
 
Planning to do the wet test tonight. Confused a bit though...how would leaving valves or gasket allow pressure out through the oil filler? I thought the only way to the crankcase via the spark plug hole would be past the rings. no?
 
Or past the valve stems into the rocker area and out the filler hole.
 
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