Nitrous Oxide



I want to add Nitrous Oxide to my 200 ford any one know how to do it.I tryd to pm importkiller but i dont think he has been to the site in a while.If theres any one out there that knows how its done plz tell me. Parts on my car performance cam from comp cam 1bblcarb off a 250 i6 3 angle vavle job head has been shaved to bring up compresetion stock pistons if i need any upgrads to run Nitrous plz tell me. I ask the man that done all the work on my car if a 2bbl carb would work he said it might be to much for it any one think a 2bbl will work. :stick:
I have it for mine, small plate under the carb. I put it on almost 20 years ago. Sent NOS a carb gasket, and they made me a plate, with a Fogger fitting in it. It's a 60hp system.
Most people recomend the use of six fogger nozzles, one on each intake runner, to avoid lean out due the the log head poor design.

Import Killer has gotten away with using just one nozzle on the intake. IIRC he was running close to 75Hp shot.

how would i go by puting them in the intake when i drill stuff will get in my head importkillers set wont run lean if you run a new fule pump with 7psi
Hey guys, sorry I have not been on here for a little while. Issues, I never got your PM so I never knew you where trying to get a hold of me. You can check out my website to see some pics of my setup. It is really simple. If you have any questions or need any help just ask me. I think you would like a shot of the juce! :D

The problem with the log manifold is that it may lean out the end cylinders a bit, especially when you start pushing more fuel/air/nitrous through it than it was ever designed to handle. The fogger setup guarantes that this does not happen.

At low levels of giggle gas, this is probably not an issue, but I'd really like to see exhaust gas temperatures on the individual cylinders before I even commit to that statement. The problem is that there's always a tendency to dial up the nitrous level and if you do bad things can happen.

As for chips in the head, you'd have to pull it to do the machine work anyway, so that's hardly an issue.
Anyone set up a small kit on an Aussie 2v before?

With the inproved flow of that head could a small fogger in the carb area work better than on a conventional log head?

I have never considered adding it before, but it would probably not get used as much as it would be there to talk about...

Also, how safe is running Nirtous anyway, in small amounts that is. I have no real desire to throw a bunch into this engine since I have a lot invested in there...

Just curious I have no real experience with it.
Someone here would've had a crack at it. I'll email a mate to see what he might remember.

Regards, Adam.
Jimbo, using nitrous like you are talking about should be safe and fun. Running nitrous in small amounts(and larger amounts) is very safe as long as you get everything setup right. Using smaller amounts gives you more room for error though. Go for it. If I can help you with anything just let me know.

I checked with my mate and he's never heard of it being done (on a 2V). His comments - "should be good on a 221 or 250, but have a bulletproof bottom end".
I have my carb adapter drilled and set up for the fogger nozzle. My question is to import killer- Can you give me some fuel and nos jet sizes to start with? Do you have a timing retard? do you use a w.o.t activation switch or just a button? last what did you use for a fuel pump? I have a holley blue pump going to a distribution block feeding the carb and solenoid.


My bottle is full and I cant wait for the fun
I recently installed a Fogger NOS system on my Slant and it is working pretty good. My set-up is using a fogger nozzel in each runner and is jetted to add a 120 HP shot. Here is a link to more info and some pics of my set-up: ... s-test.htm

NOS advises that the fuel jet be 2 sizes bigger then the NOS jet and to run 3-5 psi of fuel pressure. I started with a #18 NOS and # 20 Fuel jets with 4 psi fuel pressure. Retarded the timing 4 degrees and that "shot" took 1.4 seconds off the ET

Went to a #20 NOS and #21 Fuel Jet and started burning tips off sparkplugs. Went with staggered jetting in the carb, less timing and colder plugs and now the system knocks 2 full seconds off the car's ET! :shock:

Started-off activating my system using a hand held button but later added a microswitch to the throttle so the system activates at full throttle opening. I still have the button for system testing and line purging when needed.

I currently get about 7-8 full throttle NOS 1/4 mile runs off a full 10 lb bottle of NOS.

Best pass to date is a 12.76 from a 209 (170) SL6
I hope that helps,
powerbrakes":oi8n12ls said:
I have my carb adapter drilled and set up for the fogger nozzle. My question is to import killer- Can you give me some fuel and nos jet sizes to start with? Do you have a timing retard? do you use a w.o.t activation switch or just a button? last what did you use for a fuel pump? I have a holley blue pump going to a distribution block feeding the carb and solenoid.


My bottle is full and I cant wait for the fun

Yea, let me look tonight and see what # jets I have for the 50, 75, and 100 shot. I just pull back about 2 degrees of timming when I up the shot. You probably don't really "need" to untill you get up to like 100 shot or so but I like to be a little safer and pull some. with the small shots also. I use a switch mounted on my shifter handle so I can controll when to spray it off the line. I usually have the stock 13 tires and hubbies so spraying it right off the line is not possible without killing the tires. But I also have a set of BFG drag radials so I can also just put it to it all of the line with them! The button is also good for street racing. If you need just a little extra boost to beat a smack talker just tap it once or twice to pull on him! :LOL: On my Chevelle I use a WOT switch. It almost always has 29x11.5 ET Streets on it pluss it is a handfull to drive on the bottle so messing with a button while trying to drive, look at the tach, shift and everything is OUT! But I guess the kind of buton you use is just up to you and what you like. And last I am using a Carter "strip" mechanical fuel pump for a small block Chevy. I put a 200 pump arm in it and mounted it upside down. I also use a Holley regulator and set the fuel pressure at 7 to 7 1/2psi. I have had good luck with it so far. I am using a Holley blue on my chevelle to run both the motor and nitrous and have also had good luck with it. I think you are fine with the fuel pump! Well, I will look and get some jet #s tonight man. Later

XECUTE":21vbkfor said:
yEEHAR, dat bottle fed dodge boy puts a new slant on things!

:roll: :roll: :roll: You are not right man! :LOL: :LOL: :LOL:

IMPORTKILLER would you recomend useing the six fogger system and adapting a fogger in each one of my ARGENTINA ME intake (horns) thats what i call them what jet would i put in it to get a 75hp shot? since my intake is removeable i can do all this my self and not worry about getting any pieces into my head or such
:unsure:: thinking about doing a similar thing to my propane fuelled hemi.mount a small(2 gal?)fuel tank with electric pump(controlled from arming switch)an 2 fogger nozzels into the will the motor go when burning propane and then i give it a shot of 98 octane gasoline?looking for around 50 to 100 hp(just for fun!)any suggestions on jet sizes?(hp is like sex---boys are happy with what they've got,men want more!!) :eek:
Your solution is just great! Tri-fuel Tri-power!

With gasoline, you just over supply, and safeguard your exhast valves, pistons, and plugs. Extra funny gas is blended with extra fuel as per the jetting arrangements supplied with your kit. If you go overboard with a gasoline spike or augumentation, you can't hurt the engine at all.

With propane on its own, too much over supply will not give a cooling to the valves. You need a back stop to the system. Propane is a dry fuel, and the heat is a major issue if its not dealt with. your gasoline addition is just the capper!

Remembering LP Gas has no latent heat of evaporation, you'd need to spike the combustion process with a "water and methanol" water injection set up, if you weren't using 98 octane. The excess fuel factor, which requires extra fuel to stop the engine leaning out in a gasoline engine, is not an alternative which will provide cooling with a propane and nitrous on its own. When you richen the propane mix, it may cause burning in the exhast. So I'd look at adding a Vaccum Performance Valve (VPV), Fuel Control Valve (FCV) or Starter Valve (SV) to ensure you never reach a lean condition. Impco make these, and today there are excellent electronic modules to trigger them.

Adding gasoline is a better solution than getting either of these valves set up.

But sole LPGas +N20 has been done, WITHOUT GASOLINE AT ALL. I saw a 540 cube Donovan in a Cadillac Seville with nitrous, four E-series convertors, and four CA 425 carbs to ensure no lean-out occured. I've got a book on automotive fuels, and it covers the systems and theory involved in anything form Hydozene to digestor gas.