No Power Under Load 68 Mustang 200CI

68BlueStraight6

Active member
Okay, so I have a 1968 Automatic mustang with a straight 6 bone stock. It had some miss problems and found ample amount of sludge in the tank. Cleaned this all out and blew out the line and installed a glass filter in the rubber line that runs between the hard line and the pump. Replaced plugs, wires, coil, cap, rotor, points, and fuel pump.

Still would miss here and there but still made a decent amount of power for what I was expecting out of a little 6 banger. So then I turned to the next part. Replaced the dual distributor with a rebuilt unit and rebuilt the carb personally. There was a lot of gunk in the carb and I assumed I fixed my problems. Car idles beautifully and is timed to 12 degrees with the advance unplugged and capped.

Now for the major issue. When the car is idling, I am able to increase the throttle slowly with no problem, will rev right up. If I punch down on the throttle it will spit and sputter, fire out the carb once and stay at a lower RPM and just sit there. Now, if I take the car out on the road, it feels like the car is permanently stuck in third gear, it struggles to get up to ten miles an hour and sits at the lower RPM whether you try to ease the throttle or floor it. Other oddity is if you are flooring it, eventually it feels like it kicks down in gear for a couple seconds and will start to climb, just to go back to the slow RPM again.

Finally, after driving it for roughly 5 minutes like this, there is a very strange odor, almost a cross between clutch and mouse/mouse nest.

Again, the car ran really well with just a slight miss and would die if it sat at idle for longer than three minutes prior to the rebuild of the carb, new rebuilt distributor and glass fuel filter.

I think the carb is just tired and worn out even after the rebuild but just wanted this forums expertise.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!!!!
 
at 5 posts hope it's OK to say:
WELCOME !

which carb is it? (thinkin bout the float)
How's the cable set to the C4?
Still not clear on this dizzy.

Lotta changes at once makes it tough 4 me to id 1 specific problem (esp. remotely).
Sorry…
nxt visitor will B more equipped I'm sure…
 
Thank You for the welcome!

The carb is the good ole Autolite 1100 without scv. I ordered one the other day from autozone for kicks knowing it's easy to return so I will be able to check that theory later next week I believe.
Cable set to the C4 looks a little loose when its just sitting there. Once you hit the accelerator to the ground it tightens up enough to move the switch.

Again, any help or leads is appreciated.
 
chad":1r5gumwl said:
Still not clear on this dizzy.
"…the dual distributor with a rebuilt unit…"


the 'blubbering' carb & mouse smell can mean "too rich"?
Pull-a-plug might help with a Dx of that…

I'd B interested on a report after the AutoZone install (many of us rebuild 'rebuilt' carbs B4 placement on a motor).
 
:unsure: have you done a compression test yet? Have you checked for Vacuum leaks? Good luck :nod:
 
Howdy Blue and All:

Based on your initial narrative I'd be suspicious of worn valves in the engine. How many miles on the engine? As per Bubba's suggestion do a compression test to verify. On the "After rebuilding the Carb" a number of symptoms sound likely; float setting, accelerator pump, and vacuum leaks. I'd suggest that you redo the carb rebuild or try a replacement carb for comparison. Since it ran better "Before" that's a strong likely hood.

Let us know what you find. And good luck.

Adios, David
 
So, as much as I hate to admit it, I am an idiot. I misread the vacuum diagram and had the vacuum lines all mixed up. I think the distributor was seeing retard when it was supposed to be seeing advance and vice versa. Also the points were set at .005 instead of .026 so that may of also been a contributing factor. Needless to say, human error, can't blame the car. Put the car in drive and off she went.

Still has a bit of dead spots with the carb and the choke mech doesn't work what so ever so I will continue on the path of trying out the Autozone special and hope for the best.

Car only has 66,xxx miles on it. Spent it's entire life in a garage. Only a small piece of sheet metal needed to be welded to the quarter. All other factory metal was in near mint condition, which is veryyyy rare up here in the northeast. And when I bought it I had a strong feeling the head may of been rebuilt. When I pulled the valve cover there was zero sludge, looked as good as my much newer car. Also the head appeared to be a different and much cleaner shade of blue making me think it may of been taken off, rebuilt, cleaned, painted and put back on.

Thanks again for all the help. I know I will be back on here as I am much more used to newer cars with computers and fuel injection.
 
You'll B backward engineering then!
:LOL:
(will help U understand the newer 1 too!). Thanks for taking me along w/ur project. Watin 2 C pic…

Ck yer casting #s to answer the story (on top of the 'log', and by the down tube of the exhaust on the block). You're lucky on the body as it's near the ocean And on salted roads. May B Y the motor/head don't match the body. Some 1 found a good body (or motor) and restored the "other 1/2".

Keep us posted as U go…
 
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