Oil and Filter

[xrwagon]

I know everyone has a differing opinion on oil and filters but what grade firstly and what brand of oil to use in my 200, motor has unknown miles on it but i do drag race it occasionally and want maximum protection even more power, in my stroker mini years ago changing oil made more power as backed up on a dyno, that was Mobil One. I have read good and bad about most brands, i am looking at changing oil once a year, i do roughly 3000k’s a year, also the oil filter is just as important to me, and after reading a site on comparisons i am more confused than ever, mainly the ones with reusable or washable, serviceable elements. Want advice as to the hows and why,

Thanks

AZZA

 

[rbohm]

8) my advice on oil is use a good synthetic, like mobil one, valvoline, pennzoil, quaker state, etc. i prefer a 10w30 weight oil myself for our older engines.

as to the filter, the stock motorcraft filter is great, wix is even better, as is purolator. removable elements are nice, but i prefer my filters all in one package that is easily disposable. the only real advantage to the replaceable elements is that you dont have to squeeze the can to find out what is in the filter.

 

[80broncoman]

X2 on the above

And if you have Room try to fit a Wix 51773 or NAPA 1773 oil filter. These are a replacements for the larger Motorcraft FL-299 which are rare. These are same as Motorcraft FL-1A except longer.

 

[xrwagon]

Thanks guys, i have the room for a long filter, anyone use Royal Purple, or Amsoil, Brad Penn or Joe Gibbs, Amsoil write ups is its like the avon of oil, only through resellers and over priced, Royal Purple some say is a gimmick the purple dye, i want a performace oil.

 

[80broncoman]

Thanks guys, i have the room for a long filter, anyone use Royal Purple, or Amsoil, Brad Penn or Joe Gibbs, Amsoil write ups is its like the avon of oil, only through resellers and over priced, Royal Purple some say is a gimmick the purple dye, i want a performace oil.

I tend to agree with your statements on Amsoil and Royal Purple being over priced.
Both are probably good products, but I don't think they are 30% better (like their 30% higher prices would indicate) than say the leading synthetic Mobil 1

 

[rbohm]

Thanks guys, i have the room for a long filter, anyone use Royal Purple, or Amsoil, Brad Penn or Joe Gibbs, Amsoil write ups is its like the avon of oil, only through resellers and over priced, Royal Purple some say is a gimmick the purple dye, i want a performace oil.

X2 on amsoil and royal purple. they are quality oils, and if you were going racing an d needed the best, then they would be worth the price. otherwise leave them to the oil snobs and racers. i havent heard of brad penn, but the gibbs oil is supposed to be good stuff. another oil to think about is the nextgen oil from valvoline. it is a recycled oil done right.

 

[wsa111]

Thanks guys, i have the room for a long filter, anyone use Royal Purple, or Amsoil, Brad Penn or Joe Gibbs, Amsoil write ups is its like the avon of oil, only through resellers and over priced, Royal Purple some say is a gimmick the purple dye, i want a performace oil.

X2 on amsoil and royal purple. they are quality oils, and if you were going racing an d needed the best, then they would be worth the price. otherwise leave them to the oil snobs and racers. i havent heard of brad penn, but the gibbs oil is supposed to be good stuff. another oil to think about is the nextgen oil from valvoline. it is a recycled oil done right.

Brad Penn is a synthetic blend racing oil, but the cost is less than the full synthetics & it contains all the additives of a good racing oil plus all the detergents needed for street driving.
Beware all of the other brands on the shelf do not contain zdpp. Only true racing oils contain the good stuff.
Joe Gibbs might will have to research that.

 

[rbohm]

8) wsa i right about that, zddp is very important for our engines, unless and until a simple roller cam swap can be made for our engines. fortunately you can use a zddp additive at each oil change if the oil you ultimately choose doesnt have the additive in it.

 

[xrwagon]

so what does zddp do? is it for reducing friction? i’ll have to look it up, Joe Gibbs is being touted as the next big oil, lots of shops in Australia are using it and its as dear as the others. Brad Penn is the oldest oil apparently.

 

[xrwagon]

ok just read up on ZDDP, now the consensus is what is to much to have, some brands have over 2200 PPM, like Redline, on a oil board they suggest that is to much, around 1800 PM might be the trick.

My other question seeing the oil one has been answered is oil filter, is it worth the expense of going a dear filter or just get the normal old ZX9 and put a filter mag on it lol

 

[rbohm]

8) there is a minimum for zddp, some suggest it can be as low as 1300ppm after the cam has been properly broken in, key word being properly. 1800 is as good an amount as any that is worthwhile, i kind of doubt that there can be too much, except for cat converter cars as the zddp can harm the converter. if you feel you dont have enough in the oil you use, you can always use an additive that has zddp in it.

as to the oil filter question, just use the best screw on disposable filter you can afford, and use the magnet to help collect any metal particles that make it to the filter. i also suggest using a magnet in the bottom of the oil pan as well. use a good high temp epoxy to glue the magnet in place. if you use a steel pan, you can put the magnet on the outside of the pan so when you do oil changes you just remove the magnet to release the metal particles and they drain away with the oil.

 

[xrwagon]

thanks mate, didn’t think of magnet on the sump.

 

[rbohm]

i only remembered it because we used on on our race car years ago. it prevented a lot of issues in the long run. while others were rebuilding engines on a regular basis, we were able to run nearly the full season before we tore down our motor to freshen it up. and this was a lower level fuel altered class.

 

[JackFish]

Redline user here. With a PureOne filter. Or Wix. 51515 is the stock replacement.
I don't like having to change the oil often, and I feel confident running this stuff 5k-10K.
Ran the last fill through two winters.

 

[xrwagon]

Whats the motor like Mr Fish, worked or stock? Do you find it actually makes more power?

 

[JackFish]

Ported head oversize valves, slightly modified stock 1946 carb, block bored 30 over moly rings tinkered ds2 g3 alternator.
264/274/112 cam with 2200 stall C4, stock 3.08 rear, but that's going to change if I ever get around to it.
You can be sure I used a dino oil to break it in.
But with the synthetic what I notice is a more freely starting engine in the winter.
It just seems to crank over more easily when cold.
I've read that it clings better to the metal after shut-down.
Most wear (I've read) occurs at start-up, so anything that helps improve that is something that works for me.
But I have no "scientific" evidence of anything, and I doubt changing to a synthetic oil will give anyone access to any significant amount of horsepower.
I used to hang out on bobistheoilguy, and for myself, I've decided that ANY good quality oil will work just fine, and perform not that much different in the long run from each other. So I buy whatever is on sale. Just bought 2 gallons of Valvoline full synthetic because it was only $18, and that's a good deal up here.

 

[jimlj66]

I've decided that ANY good quality oil will work just fine, and perform not that much different in the long run from each other. So I buy whatever is on sale.

X2

I run a diesel rated 15-40 oil. Still has plenty of ZDDP (so I am told). I usually use Motorcraft filters, but I also use any quality filter that is on sale. Right now I have WalMart Supertech oil and Motorcraft filter on the Mustang. I've bought Shell, Valvoline and Motorcraft oil when on sale. I have ran WalMart 5-30 oil in my Jeep for over 220,000 miles without any problems. It's had a few "on sale" oil changes in that time.

I don't think you can go wrong with ANY modern SAE rated oil.

 

[wsa111]

The diesel oils have also cut the zddp amount, but are still higher than the other oils off the shelf.
zddp not only protects the flat tappet camshaft & lifters, but also the distributor gear which is a real weak problem with these sixes.
I strongly recommend to run an oil with high zddp or use an additive to get the level of protestion needed.
Lucas & all the camshaft manufacturers sell the zddp additive.

 

[rbohm]

The diesel oils have also cut the zddp amount, but are still higher than the other oils off the shelf.
zddp not only protects the flat tappet camshaft & lifters, but also the distributor gear which is a real weak problem with these sixes.
I strongly recommend to run an oil with high zddp or use an additive to get the level of protestion needed.
Lucas & all the camshaft manufacturers sell the zddp additive.

the nice thing is that once everything is properly broken is, you only need the additive every other oil change, especially if you are using a good synthetic oil.

 

[FalconSedanDelivery]

That Depends on the Brand of Synthetic (Comment on above post ) , Most of the Popular Syns , Have Very LITTLE Zinc in them , they are not catering to 60's-80's Engines I only ever wiped one cam and it was while using a Top of the Line Synthetic , that company now markets a Muscle car Oil with Zinc , choose your Poison , BUT if you have anything other than a Stock Cam , use at Least a Diesel Oil or a Racing Oil ,or a Syn that specifically states it has a High Zinc Level , the price difference is way better than loosing a Cam / Lifters and maybe an Engine