oil lbs go down



when my mother gose down the hiway at 75-80 miles an hour. Over 25 min. in her maverick 250 C4 the oil lbs go from 75 lb and go between 17 and 30 lbs the engin makes a cuple of wierd sounds from the top end and the oil lbs go back up to 75 lb could air bubles be getting into the oil from staying at 3000 rpms for so long

I`m only 15 so thats thats wy its not my car and wy I`m not driving it
If the oil passages that return to the block are plugged from sludge, this can cause the oil to accumulate above for a while. This was always a problem on Ford's FE engines and the old 292/312 blocks.The 200/250 has large passages, though, so it would have to be a very neglected engine to get this bad.

Another possibility is insufficient amount of oil in the crankcase to begin with.

Finally, check to see if the oil pan is bashed in. If it is, right over the oil sump pickup, it will act this way. Eventually it will tear up the crankshaft ffom oil startvation.
the noise is coming from the top of the engin lifters pushrods rockers.
the engin is very well maintained and has never been re built. thier is no dents in the oil pan and I just put a new oil pump in it and I also just changed the oil my mother is going to nursing school so i can`t have the car down for mor than two days thanks :D
This is typical for an engine with a lot of wear.

The pushrods and valves will wear into the rockers causing extra lash. The lifters are probably also worn creating more lash. Driving at higher speeds thins the oil, heats the valve train, causes more leakdown, and consequently, causes a loud ticking tapping noise.

There's no easy way to inspect the lifters without pulling them and that requires head removal.

However, you can do a quick inspection of the top end by pulling the rocker shaft. Look at the pads that ride on the valve stems. They should be smooth and shiny but without a noticeble wear groove. Then look a the pushrod end. It should be round. When they start to wear, they look pointy. If that's the case, you'll need new pushrods and rockers.

Even if the lifters are a bit worn, you may be able to eliminat the noise and get a few more miles out of it by just changing the rockers and pushrods. Call www.rockerarms.com and talk to Gary about stock replacements. Shouldn't cost too much.
thanks every one I`ll pull the valve cover some time to day and see how bad it is worn would I beable to get some from the junk yard?

it made the noise before and after I chaneged the oil pump :unsure:
I wouldn't buy second-hand rocker gear from a yard. It may not be much better than your current stuff, and may even have grit in it. (Ever seen a grit-free wrecking yard? :LOL: )

The shaft wears over time, as do the rockers. Properly reco'd rocker arms on a new shaft is a better option. Look for an adjustable set, and note the location/type of the washers under the rocker pedestal bolts.

Regards, Adam.
8) i agree with adam, unless you get a smoking deal from the yard buy a reconditioned set of rockers, that includes the shaft. if you get the deal on the used set you are going to spend a fair amount of cash having them reconditioned anyway.
I pulled the valve cover and rocker arms today every thing looked practicly new , I cleaned all the bolts and bolt holes went and got a torque wrench and torqued the bolts to 35 lbs thier wasn`t alot of valve lash ether so what was could be causing the noise :unsure::
This sure sounds like what my Maverick 250 is doing. At 2500 rpm on the highway for several miles, oil pressure will start to fluctuate between 35-40psi, then I lose lifters. If I slow down to 2000 rpm, oil pressure goes back to 40, and after a few miles, the lifters pump back up. This engine has had the crank turned, new lifters and pushrods, new oil pump. The only thing that bugs me, I did not replace the pick-up tube, I used the old one. And I used that cheap "rebuilder" lifters and oil pump. I never ran this engine before the rebuild, so I don't know if it did it before. Also, on the highway, if I tap the brakes, I can see the oil pressure drop, like it may slosh away from the pick-up tube, or the tube may be cracked. It's been like this for five years, so I probably won't bother fixing it. I am collecting parts for a new one.
what year is your maveric? also howcome this only happens to mavericks and not mustangs
It's a 1971 Grabber, the engine is from a 1974. The car shouldn't make a difference, I guess just bad luck.
I have a 1976 maverick 250 [ not in a maverick] and I had a similiar problem. Starting with a cold engine i would run it up to a certain temperature at 60-65 mph the oil pressure would drop and what sounded like a lifter would break loose with a terrible noise. It would stay like that for a few miles and then go away. I didnt normally have any engine noise and it would never happen driving around town etc. only at that speed after the temperature came up. I rebuilt my motor about 27000 miles ago and I know everything is in good shape but I was going to tear the top end apart and thought of replacing the lifters. An old man {67 years old} told me to put a quart of automatic transmission oil [type F only] and run the truck for a week and then change the oil and filter. It was like a miracle. from the time I poured the oil in it has never done it again. I drained the oil like he said and I have run the engine 5000 miles since and no pressure drop and no more noise. It may sound crazy but it sure worked for me. Whatever was in there it cleaned it right out and saved me alot of money and labor. Thought Id mention it, hope you solve your problem.----Larry
Are all the lifters spinning the same amount as the engine idles/runs? You have to check this with the cover off, of course. Possibly, the ATF dissolves some of the crud sticking the lifters against rotation.

Regards, Adam.
this engin has a hidrollic liftors and if thier bad and lose presher would that couse my problems like the loss of power ,tapping ,and ticking? does anny one know how much they will cost me ? and thanks :p
You don't mention what oil you're running. For an older engine you might want to switch to a 15W-40 or 20W-50. Whatever you do, don't put a 5W-30 in an older engine unless you want to put a diaper on it. ;)
I`m running 10w 30 now and 20 w50 in the summer both with luckuss oil additive it helps out alot :)