oil leak

[nick50]

Could someone help me in identifying where my oil leak is coming from.
I think it might be the rear main seal but cannot be sure.
If I place a container under the rear of the engine (under the bell housing cover)
It will drip from the rear engine plate cover area.
If this is the rear engine main seal - is it an " engine out" to fix or can the seal be prised out with the Auto box removed.
The car is '65 Mustang 200ci
Thanks,
Nick.

 

[MT63AFX]

Have you eliminated the possibilities that the oil is coming from the valve cover or the oil pressure sending unit? Some old-timers could change rear mains seals while in the car (on a hoist). Just guessin' here.

RodC

 

[nick50]

Hi,
Leak is not from top of engine.
Have cleaned up sump gasket & don't think that is the cause.
No blocked emission lines either.
Still looking & trying.
cheers,
Nick.

 

[chad]

Yeah, it can run from areas above that or that will channel it in that direction.
After cleaning wait/look again.

I don't think U can get to all the seal (top) and it IS an "...with the Auto box removed..."

I bet a drive shaft d/c at the frnt and slide back on tranny mounts (it has a cross member doesn't it?) could do it??? I also think this is the one with the "rope" seal so it's a bugger to dig all that out (shreds remain). There's 2 small areas that need dab of sealer on the new as well.

Some 1 w/more experience will be along shortly for details I'm sure...

Meanwhile keep yer chin Up, Down Under!

 

[bubba22349]

Hi Nick, more then likely it's the rear main seal. Not a fun job but it can be done in the car. At a minimum you will need to pull the pan and unbolt the torque converter side it back towards the trans as far as it will go. You then pull rear main cap if you can find the old tool called a Sneaky Pete it will help remove and reinstall a new rope seal. Most people go with the newer and better neoprene seal which is also easier to install and lasts much longer too. Clock that type seal so it has an 1/8 to 1/4 inch sticking past the parting line of the block put a small dab of silicon on the ends and button it up. Good luck

 

[chad]

"...the torque converter..."
o0OPp, missed that (he DID say "Auto box"!)

Thanks bubs!!!
Is a sneaky peat just a bent up ice pick kinda thing? or better yet?
Ya got an "extension mirror" Nick?

 

[ludwig]

I think you could use one of those flexible grabbers, the ones that have the three claws inside a coil that open and close with a plunger, roughly 1/4" in diameter. If one was to shove the rope out one way, you could possibly drag the new rope back in with the same tool, especially if you oiled up the rope first.

Just speculating. I have one, BTW, and I use it to snag little screws and stuff that fall inside the A-arm or down below the intake on the top of my F 150. Works like a hypodermic needle with claws.

I installed the pan from below and used gasket sealant on the bottom of the block and the lip of the oil pan. Not comfortable but I have no drips. Oh yes, I straightened the lip of the pan by pushing all the bolt holes back out flush to the original surface. I hammered on a short piece of 1x2 on top of another wooden surface, kind of like using a soft dolly. After years of cranking down on the pan and cork seal to stop leakage, the metal eventually bottoms out, cutting through the cork. Then the holes look like a series of shallow funnels and you get no seal at all with a new gasket.

 

[Gene 64 2dr]

You can replace the rear seal with the engine in the car, I’ve done it twice. The first time I used the rope type, the second with the newer rubber style. With the rope one I didn’t want to try and shove it back in so I removed the flywheel, damper, front timing cover, and timing chain. Then loosened all the mains and slowly dropped the crank down some with the piston rods still attached. Replaced the seal and put it all back together.

I still had a leak so I thought I screwed up putting the seal in so I did it again with the new style. This time I only took off the flywheel and removed the rear main. The rope seal pulled right out and the newer style seal pushed in very easily with some lube.

After all that I still had some leakage but only after driving some at highway speeds. I couldn’t have messed up twice.

The rear oil leak problem turns out to be that I had recently replaced the valve cover breather filter with a pcv valve to eliminate the oil vapor smell. The oil filler plug that I was using made a tight seal in the valve cover and combination seems to have created a positive pressure in the crankcase. I replaced the plug with a breather filter and haven’t had a drop of oil leak since.

 

[bubba22349]

Chad the sneaky Pete part of the kit is a cable with a T handle on end, the other end is a made so it will grab the rope seal and hold on to it and pull it into place (think Chinese finger puzzle) there is also an threaded rod you screw into the old hard seal to pull it out.

 

[wsa111]

Hey guys you forgot to mention the pin which is pressed into the rear bearing cap. If you go back with the rope seal leave the pin as is.
I would go with the neoprene seal & then you will have to remove the pin from the rear bearing cap.

 

[chad]

"...Chad the sneaky Pete part of the kit is a cable with a..."
one step better'n Ludwig's "extended 3 jaw graber" I'm surprised it wuz strong enuff, Ludwig.

Hey, right, don't forget the pin wsa111 mentions.

Hi Gene! still got a 250 4 ya!

Think that's enuff Nick?

 

[ludwig]

I didin't put it in with that. It was an idea. The sneaky pete is clearly superior. But thinking of how the thing works, you could do it yourself with a heavy spring. Seems to me.

A lot of my mechanical success was due to dumb luck and ignorance. I probably would have more problems now that I know a great deal more.

 

[nick50]

Hi Guys,
Thanks very much for all your advice.
Will carry on monitoring the leak & fix at a later date - probably winter time when
I take the car off the road.
Cheers,
Nick.

p.s. Good to talk to some people in the States who know their stuff.
I'm in the UK.

 

[nick50]

Looks like it is the rear main seal that is leaking.
I would prefer to fit a Rubber (neoprene) seal
Are they all 2 piece? or can I get a 1 piece (ring) seal instead?
Thanks,
Nick.

 

[bubba22349]

For these old engines they are 2 piece

 

[chad]

It's a good thread, Nick. Look over ALL the pointers & U wont miss a thing.
Post us in mid re-place if needed.
Finally, do U have a part number/internet site to order the seal?
(sorry I said "down-under. aren't U da guy from heath-hayes?
tally ho)

 

[nick50]

Hi,
Have places in the UK I can get the seal from "off the shelf"
Cheers,
Nick.

Heath-Hayes??

 

[chad]

Heath-Hayes??

sorry, got U mixed up w/another over other side of the pond who posts here a bit
(have mercy, I'm an oldster - call me the Swamp Geezer round here!)

surprised U have the gaskets handy... nice!
I have to 'go to' Oz to get my pressure cooker parts (from France).
It's an expensive method!

When do U pull the car offa the road?
Do U store it in a heated space?