All Small Six Oil pan modifications

This relates to all small sixes

Drummadude

Well-known member
I am putting an inline 250 in my 1987 Ford Ranger. My question is the oil pan sump has clearance issues, is it possible to extend the tube for the oil pickup to the back and relocate the deep sump part of the pan to the rear (cut and weld)?
 
Not my area of expertise. But are you sure there isn't a rear sump version of the 250 oil pan? The small six has different applications with front or rear sumps. Someone here will know.
 
I have a related question. Mine starves oil upon hard cornering or abrupt stops, so much so the oil light comes on. It is to the full mark. Is this normal ? Sounds like you should consider baffle in the design
 
Not my area of expertise. But are you sure there isn't a rear sump version of the 250 oil pan? The small six has different applications with front or rear sumps. Someone here will know.
I am a newbie to the inline six, so I am not yet aware of that, hopefully someone with knowledge can guide me to that information. Thank you for letting me know!
 
Keep checking to make sure the oil pump and pickup will clear pan as you go.
Yup, I saw Engine Fan's pan and noticed his oil pump bump out and I am going to keep an eye on it, but I think because I kept the height of the front of the pan stock it should be fine. The junkyard I got the i200 pan from sent me an oil pickup tube from an i300 they had, so I will be able to get that in place to test for the clearances of the pickup tube.
 
I followed the “make the screen 1/8th inch off the floor” I was advised here. As stated earlier took the 250 bolt ring (no rear sump 250s in the 14 yr production, ‘double' sump and frnt) brazed ona 170 bottom from the rig’s oe motor & used the 200 tube/screen as it hada bracket/bolt for the
arm/cap hang). Others are able to run the 4.2 ina bronk w/o pan mods. Just eye-ballin it looked my frnt chunk too close to pan.
 
I followed the “make the screen 1/8th inch off the floor” I was advised here. As stated earlier took the 250 bolt ring (no rear sump 250s in the 14 yr production, ‘double' sump and frnt) brazed ona 170 bottom from the rig’s oe motor & used the 200 tube/screen as it hada bracket/bolt for the
arm/cap hang). Others are able to run the 4.2 ina bronk w/o pan mods. Just eye-ballin it looked my frnt chunk too close to pan.
Chad, I think that is to close, I shoot for 5/16'' but also seek other advice.
The 200 pickup is too small for the larger 250 pump, 300 should work fine.
 
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I forget, the tube was the right size for the pump, screen pretty darned close to ‘floor’ &
level w/it. Forget right now on baffel but think no (I like a plate w/ the ‘U’ @ the screen).
 
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Search: Rear sump 250 oil pan​

BY 62ranchero200
View attachment 22349

Keep checking to make sure the oil pump and pickup will clear pan as you go.
I see on the 62ranchero200 pic that engine fan posted he made a tube for the dipstick, but that's awful short. I suspect he must have calculated where the stick sits stock and shortened it? I am now wondering what route I need to go on this as I hopefully today will have the main portion of the graft done. I will be checking pump clearance, so while I am there I will need to check about the stick.
 
Yes you do, too low oil level and the pickup will suck air and lose oil pressure and too high the crank will whip air into the oil and that is bad for lubrication. That is one reason that race pans have deeper sumps.
I would find a dipstick that has some nice o-rings on it like on newer cars and use the flared end of the right size brake tubing, that fits snug to the dipstick and bring it up a lot higher to prevent oil leakage.
 
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Yes you do, too low oil level and the pickup will suck air and lose oil pressure and too high the crank will whip air into the oil and that is bad for lubrication. That is one reason that race pans have deeper sumps.
I would find a dipstick that has some nice o-rings on it like on newer cars and use the flared end of the right size brake tubing, that fits snug to the dipstick and bring it up a lot higher to prevent oil leakage.
Thanks for the info, good food for thought. By o-ring I assume you mean at the top where it seats at the tube? I have the basic pan tacked with the lower graft welded but saving grinding for the last step (taking longer than I thought...lol), so next step will be adding the stick tube. If anyone has any extra tips on the dipstick calculation process please sound off, this newbie would be extremely grateful.
 
Thanks for the info, good food for thought. By o-ring I assume you mean at the top where it seats at the tube? I have the basic pan tacked with the lower graft welded but saving grinding for the last step (taking longer than I thought...lol), so next step will be adding the stick tube. If anyone has any extra tips on the dipstick calculation process please sound off, this newbie would be extremely grateful.
The key to max oil fill is related to the surface height (depth) of the oil in the sump to the crankshaft. The pan is not in play. Too much oil can be as damaging as too little, and wastes energy. Before modifications flip the block over, install the original dipstick in the original tube and measure the distance from the full mark on the tube to a fixed point on the block. If the dipstick tube is in the pan you still need the depth of the oil at "full" relative to the block, not the bottom of the pan .Bottom line: if the tube or pan is modified, re-marking the stick with the full mark in the same position relative to the block as factory is very important.
Then when adding first oil fill, fill it to the new full mark regardless of quantity, don't just stick in 5 quarts and call it done.
 
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