All Small Six Oil pan modifications

This relates to all small sixes
Keep checking to make sure the oil pump and pickup will clear pan as you go.
You were correct, I ended up working on the MK2 pan, adding the punchout for the oil pump and I still needed more clearance for the suspension. Working with the my brass bars on pinholes and such as I clean the surface up, so it ain't pretty yet as I still have to mount the oil dipstick tube.oil pan.jpg
 
Ok guys, this newbie is freaking out. I was cutting the old 250 pickup tube to start attaching the pickup from the 300, heard a rattle. Shook this out of the pickup. What am I looking at and how screwed am I?20240902_181426.jpg
 
Very common to find pieces of the valve spring seals broken and lying in the oil pan/pump screen. I've done rebuilds where I removed the factory screen ( the one with the 1/2" hole in the middle , which kind of negates having a screen in the first place...). I'd wrap metal screen around the whole pick up, secure with a metal hose clamp around the pick up tube.
 
Very common to find pieces of the valve spring seals broken and lying in the oil pan/pump screen. I've done rebuilds where I removed the factory screen ( the one with the 1/2" hole in the middle , which kind of negates having a screen in the first place...). I'd wrap metal screen around the whole pick up, secure with a metal hose clamp around the pick up tube.
So I suspect this means examining the valve springs then?
 
Those are umbrella valve stem seals, they were inside the springs on the valve stems to keep oil from going down the guide.
Search ''replacing umbrella valve seals on u tube'', not too hard to replace and can be done without taking off the head.
Sometimes they clog the oil drain back holes in the lifter galley, but you have to take the head off to do anything about it.
 
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rubber or better known as Viton (see the cap V? that = propritaty name for a plastic).
feel them and be relieved. Look @ the smoking tail pipe & no they need replacement.
“Ya burnin oil ?!?"
 
rubber or better known as Viton (see the cap V? that = propritaty name for a plastic).
feel them and be relieved. Look @ the smoking tail pipe & no they need replacement.
“Ya burnin oil ?!?"
The engine came out of a 70 Maverick, the roller was being used to transfer the remains of another Maverick V8 powered drag racer that took a wall during a race. So I have no history on this engine. I guess I am going to be removing the head then.
 
The engine came out of a 70 Maverick, the roller was being used to transfer the remains of another Maverick V8 powered drag racer that took a wall during a race. So I have no history on this engine. I guess I am going to be removing the head then.
If the compression is good, no need to remove the head! The valve stem seals can be changed w/o removal.
 
2X ^. Y remove the head if no need for machining, suspected damage, valve change.
All else can B done w/motor in car, no head removal. Valve seals may B 1 of the easiest.
Need a valve spring tool (if not posessed go to big box store, they have on free loan w/$ down)
& something to put in compressed air (to a cyl).

I used our search function (above) and got:

if no good or U prefer watchin movies:
 
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You do not need to take off the head to change the seals. but to clean out the lifter galley oil drain back holes you do .
But wait!!!! your engine is out of the car with the pan off. Check the three oil drain back holes along the cam, use a light and see if there is any junk, probe around with a piece of wire and vacuum out, maybe blow air from the top, you get the idea.
 
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When you go to do the seals, do not turn the engine upside down with the rocker shaft off, the lifters can fall out and the are hard to get back in and must be put back in the same order as worn in, push rod must be kept in the same place also.
When taking off the rocker shaft be careful that the push rods does not stick to the rockers when you lift up or the lifters can get pulled out of its hole.
When putting the rocker shaft back on make sure that the pushrods are seated in the lifter cup and stay that way as you put it together, they can get out of place sometimes.
 
You do not need to take off the head to change the seals. but to clean out the oil galley drain back holes you do .
But wait!!!! your engine is out of the car with the pan off. Check the three oil drain back holes along the cam, use a light and see if there is any junk, probe around with a piece of wire and vacuum out, maybe blow air from the top, you get the idea.
Excellent info to have! Yes the pan is off, so I will get a light and examine it. Again, you guys are the best!!!!!
 
When you go to do the seals, do not turn the engine upside down with the rocker shaft off, the lifters can fall out and the are hard to get back in and must be put back in the same order as worn in, push rod must be kept in the same place also.
When taking off the rocker shaft be careful that the push rods does not stick to the rockers when you lift up or the lifters can get pulled out of its hole.
When putting the rocker shaft back on make sure that the pushrods are seated in the lifter cup and stay that way as you put it together, they can get out of place sometimes.
Who is the best source for i250 umbrella seals?
 
“...preferences or recommendations..."
just for the Viton as they all make them
 
I would get them from ford but that was a long time ago. I would think that any of the name brands would be fine.
Maybe someone has some more current preferences or recommendations
I see lots of the small 6 (170, 200) when I Google search, but the 250 doesn't seem to show (except for Chevy). Is there sizing involved?
 
I see lots of the small 6 (170, 200) when I Google search, but the 250 doesn't seem to show (except for Chevy). Is there sizing involved?
I recommend looking at RockAuto in any search. They often have what others don't, and sometimes there's NOS parts being closed out cheap.
I put the link to the valve stem seals. There are two types, not sure what your engine has. The umbrella type should work regardless- but let a small6 guy verify that- . Any of the offerings would work acceptably, you can choose your material, they have a good selection to choose from.
 
umbrella is the way. Often ona shop machining they mill
there for the new style in the course of their other work.
(Did so to me). My guy would not follow my recommendations
(“I’m not gunna do that.”) and had his own way w/the work (all
well’n good in the end but who’s head wuz it after all?).
 
I see lots of the small 6 (170, 200) when I Google search, but the 250 doesn't seem to show (except for Chevy). Is there sizing involved?
The US. 144, 170, 200 and 250 are the same. If you search around long enough and match the part number you will see they are the same part number.
Just make sure that the seal you pick is a umbrella type otherwise you may have to machine the guide to fit.
 
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