oil pan/oil pump/oil pick up screen: tourqe?

[barroom hero]

going to be starting to assemble my engine soon, does anyone have the tourqe ratings for the oil pump to the block, oil pick up screen to the pump, and oil pan? also, should i use any sealer on the gasket for the pan? if so, what would you recommend? i should be gettign a shop manual soon, but i dunno if ill be able to wait. thanks guys.

 

[addo]

A lot of old industrial service manuals had generalised torque settings. If, for example, you had a 7/16" high tensile UNC fixing, it gave you the final torque for most applications. They're pretty handy as many engine parts do conform to this approach.

For the oil pan to block, keep it light. Maybe 7 foot-pounds (84 inch-pounds). I would use a sealant as well as cork gasket. Blue Hylomar is worth looking for as it's more solvent proof than many, once cured. The arches at the front and rear ends of the pan where it clears the crank business are worthy of strategic extra dabs of sealant. RTV works nicely, but don't be too generous. As much squeezes inside as outside - do you want it to come loose in there?

For pump to block, I'd guess 35 foot-pounds tops. That's if it's a 3/8" bolt. If it's 5/16", go less by 10 or so. 15-20 for the pickup screen to pump body. A good torque wrench is indispensable.

No doubt Simon or someone else will correct me on the figures, but you ought to be safe... *inserts disclaimer *

Regards, Adam.

 

[simon]

All I can do is telling whats written in my books.

According to both the Chilton and the FoMoCo, it is

12-15 ft/lbs for oil pumps on the 170-200-250, and

7-9 ft/lbs for the oil pan.

Always remember that oil pans, just like rocker covers, have one single task: to seal tight. There are no forces like on internal moving engine parts, hence no need to overtorque the bolts. Go crazy on the oil pan or valve cover bolts and you´ll warp the bolt holes, rendering all sealing efforts useless.