oil pan tapping location?

ryan11

New member
oil pan tapping location for turbo oil drain?
if you have turboed your 6 post some pics of were you tapped the pan for the return.
also im assuming the stock straight 6 pan is not that thickwalled and is steel is stock form,,,????,,,

all of my homemade turbo cars have had aluminum pans stock (mostly mazdas & ford 4 banger dohc motors)
that were relativly thick so i just drill at the top of the pan above oil line,,,,A.K.A above were the oil would sit in the pan,,,,,
and tapped them for a barbed fitting then JB welded them.

so is there a different way to do thin walled steel pans if the stock 6 pans are like that.
iirc i read punch the pan and drill it???
 
I welded a pipe bung into the pan. As to where, you will have to figure out where is the shortest possible route that still provides the best possible drainage. If the pan comes into close vicinity of a connecting rod, most prefer not to have the connecting rod sweeping past the drain port into the pan as it can cause oil sling and windage back up into the drain tube. Most likely problematic as high engine speeds though.
 
The Inline 6 pans are thin steel. Very easy to weld a bung too!
Just make sure you place it as high on the pan as possible leaving enough space gain access to the pan bolts.
Later,
Will
 
I have seen some hooked with a hose to the drain plug location. And if you think about it it makes no difference if its above the "oil line" or not.
 
The trouble with returning below oil level is that the oil leaving the turbo is not just oil. Its a light weight foam of oil, air, and combustion gases that slip past the turbine seals. This foam is lighter than the oil in the pan and will back up the drain tube and can then slip past the turbo seals.

With a long drain hose this problem may not be very apparent, but with a short hose this does cause smoking.
 
DONT put it below oil level. Theres a reason your not supposed to have any sharp bends or level spots in the oil return line. ALOT of people with smokey turbos will straighen out the line and keep it at a downward angle to keep oil from pooling up blocking the drain, blowing oil passed the seal in the turbo itself. Ide imagine runnin it all the way down to the drain plug would cause multiple problems. :nono: Mine is located about 4 or 5 inches away from the turbo itself right under where the pan meets the block. Like Will said, dont block your pan bolts and you will be fine! Also, run as BIG a line as you can get away with!!!
Matt
 
Is anyone putting a downturn inside the pan or are you just drilling a hole, mounting the bung, and letting it pour into the pan?

Is the oil draining out of the turbo pressurized? Can it hit the crank?
 
The stuff that drains out of the turbo is not pressurized. It is a froth the consistency of shaving cream. A downleg that ran it into the oil level in the sump would be a very bad idea. Any increase in back pressure runs the risk of stalling the flow which will coke up the turbo's bearing cartridge and destroy it in very short order. Most people use a #8 or #10 line for what is really a minimal flow simply to minimize back pressure and protect the turbo.
 
YUP!!! And dont worry bout doin anything inside the oilpan, just weld up a bung and call it a day!!! Make sure the line is as big, short and slopes downhill as possible! Keep it restriction free and towards the top of the oil pan and you are set!!!
Matt
 
StrangeRanger":2jr3l730 said:
The stuff that drains out of the turbo is not pressurized. It is a froth the consistency of shaving cream. A downleg that ran it into the oil level in the sump would be a very bad idea. Any increase in back pressure runs the risk of stalling the flow which will coke up the turbo's bearing cartridge and destroy it in very short order. Most people use a #8 or #10 line for what is really a minimal flow simply to minimize back pressure and protect the turbo.

:oops: :oops: I was thinking it was just oil. I'v seen superchargers hoked they way I mentioned. I wasn't thinkig :oops:
 
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