Oil weight & octane?

[Anonymous]

Just was curious.....I have a 200 ci 6 engine. Just was wondering what brand of oil & weight to use & recommendations? Also was curious what octane fuel others are running in these older engines & any recommedations? Thanks

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy Back Lazy:

You didn't say what year engine you're working with, or how many miles. That would make a difference on what I recommend to you.

On an older engine, in good condition, assuming a good state of tune, a good cooling system and driven regularly, I'd recommend straight #30 or #40 weight oil summer. #20 winter. Or a good #10w-40 year around. Many here prefer the Rotella diesel brand for less cam and lifter wear.

On octane, a stock '65 200 has a CR close to 9:1. On an original, OEM engine, with carbon build up, I'd be looking for 87 or higher. Fortunately our small bore, wedge-shape combustion chamber engines are knock resistance, but time and carbon creep can cause hot spots causing pre-ignition.

A good additive to reduce carbon will help if you get any knock.

Which ever weight of oil and octane of gas, make sure that your choke is not set too rich and that oil consumption is minimized. Both tend to delute the oil and contaminate it prematurely.

Adios, David

 

[rbohm]

8) for both of my sixes i use 10w-30 oil, usually pennzoil or moble 1. for gasoline i use 87 octane.

 

[Anonymous]

The year is a 1966 & it has 140K, but was rebuilt 15K ago.

 

[Anonymous]

C'MON GUYS, HELP ME OUT A LITTLE HERE! I LIVE IN WYOMING & WILL BE DOING MOSTLY SUMMER DRIVING. DO YOU RECOMMEND STRAIGHT OR MULTI-GRADE?

 

[wallaka]

I don't recommend straight for anything that sees a normal oil-change routine. The only difference is at low temperatures, the multi-grade oil has less viscosity. When both are at operating temperatures, they perform the same. Since most wear is done when the engine is cold, it makes sense to have an oil that isn't hard to pump. This effect lasts until the additives break down, then they go back to being the higher viscosity. Personally, I use Rotella 15-40 because it has the extra amounts of ZDDP and other anti-wear additives that flat-tappet engines need to avoid trashing a cam lobe. These additives have been phased out for a while in car oils and are being lessened in diesel oil, but not to nearly the same degree.

As for gas, who cares as long as it doesn't ping?

 

[Funky Cricket]

87 cause it's cheaper.

I ran mobile1 10w-30.

 

[The Plankster Prankster]

i don't have your engine, but i run 10-40, usually chevron brand (bought by the case at costco when on sale), but 15-40 would be better.
in my F150, when i switched from the cheap gas to chevron supreme, my mileage jumped from 13 to 15, do the math at $3/gallon and find out that 100 miles on cheap gas costs $21.54 if the lo-grade is 2.80, and that same 100 miles on the good gas at 3.00 costs 20.00
i chose convenient numbers to work with for price per gallon, but its close to what they really cost, and it illustrates the point well. you'll have to see what it really does to your mileage, but also remember that if it pings at all, it is destroying your engine, and a little more cash per gallon saves your engine
--josh

 

[Harte3]

For a clear, concise and definite opinion on which oil to use try bobistheoilguy.com and the Oil Forum at Ford Truck Enthusiasts.

 

[Anonymous]

with the temp swings in wyoming even doing mostly summer driving i believe the true syn. ois are your best bet. i prefer royal purple 10-40. 5-20 in my 2005 f 150. red line lucas even motorcraft blend semi-syn would service you well. i always put 10,000 miles befor switching to syn. my mileage always goes up 2-3 gal. per mile.