Thanks guys. And I hope to get some more information on the different types of carbs that are being run on these OZ heads. I am trying to decide if I want to ditch the Weber 38 for a different carb. There are more issues here than just clearance. From my understanding, the average 2bbl carb only has 2 jets to deal with. (That makes it sound a little easier to tune the carb) My Weber has 3 jets, a main jet, an idle jet, and an air corrector jet. If I change one of those three jets it may throw the other jets way off. Too many varriable and not too many people around here know much about Weber carbs to begin with.
Thanks again for your responses.
Ted
Okay. I'll tell you what to do, not why.
The carb is really a 38DGES as someones placed the electric choke on it. It flows 300 cfm @ 1.5" Hg , enough for an easy
165 hp if jetted and sized with the correct venturis, without flinching.
The stock jets are 145 mains, 45 idle , 185 idle corrector.
The main venturi is only 27 mm,
much smaller than what an Aussie 250 34 ADM Weber runs ( its 27/29),
The 38 is going to need to have a large main jet to compenstate.
The rule for all primary and syncronised Webers is the main jet should be the venturi diameter divided by 20. Thats a 135 main jet at the very least. A 145 jet flows about 300 cc per minute of gas, so two jets plus a 60 power valve jet will give only 110 hp or so.
The best idle jet is 55 or 65, not the 45 it came with.
Summary:
Go for a bigger idle jet
There are two other options for the main jetting.
Option 1. The 38 carb has heaps of meat in it. Fly cut the venturis to 31 mm as per David Vizards 32/36 DGVS Weber mods, and place a set of 165 to 175 jets in it. Leave the air corrector at 185, and dont change from the F50 emulsion tube. The casting is thicker than the Holley Weber or Weber 32/36 carb body, and even then David said if the unthinkable happened, then just expoxy the body back up, and smoothen it back with find sand paper and clean. He also stated a small blunting or radius on the air horn and clearing the casting flash off the booster venturi was alone is worth 2 hp.
Option 2: Stick with the little 145-155 jets, and tune as per there instructions
Critical Notes:
Use the correct fuel pump recomended by these following guys. (The XE/XF Falcon Australian Carter fuel pump has a built-in 3.5 psi regulator if you want to use it. You have to use the 1.5 mm drain back valve and return line to the fuel pump, and plumb a return lin to the tank. It will work okay.
Or fit a pressure regulator with a very short hose to the carb).
http://www.piercemanifolds.com/Catalogpages/fordhr.htm
http://www.piercemanifolds.com/Images/Catalog/K617-38.htm
Note these
1.MUST CHANGE FUEL PUMP
2.MINOR LINKAGE MODIFICATION IS REQUIRED
3.MAJOR LINKAGE MODIFICATION IS REQUIRED ON AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION VEHICLES.
4.WE RECOMMEND DUAL CARBURETORS FOR MODERATE AND HIGH PERFORMANCE APPLICATIONS.
5.IF ORIGINALLY MECHANICAL STYLE LINKAGE, IT MUST BE CONVERTED TO CABLE STYLE LINKAGE. THIS REQUIRES MAJOR LINKAGE MODIFICATIONS.
6.HOOD CLEARANCE PROBLEM
7.INCLUDES FULL FLOW HEATED MANIFOLD AND “PRO-BUG†STYLE LINKAGE
8.FOR USE ON RACE VEHICLES ONLY. BRAKE BOOSTER MUST BE REMOVED.
9.FITS ENGINES THAT WERE ORIGINALLY CARBURATED OR FUEL INJECTED.
10.THIS IS A “YOU MAKE IT WORK†APPLICATION. MAJOR MODIFICATION MAY BE REQUIRED.
11.SOME VEHICLES MAY REQUIRE SOME LINKAGE MODIFICATION TO MAINTAIN AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION KICK DOWN AND PASSING GEAR. ALL OTHER TRANSMISSION OPERATIONS WILL REMAIN FUNCTIONAL.
12.UNIVERSAL KITS FIT A WIDE VARIETY OF APPLICATIONS. SOME LINKAGE AND FITMENT MODIFICATIONS MAY BE NECESSARY.
Don't let any of this bother you. The Weber 38 is very highly regarded, and can produce a huge amount of power very economically. It was the in carb for 2800 and 3000 cc European Ford Capris, and has no major faults. It also looks great.
Just make sure you either rejig the engine mounts or place a stay rod on the drivers side to stop the carb hitting anything.
the66Mustang does an awesome set of brace bars if you need space!
:duh: 
