Nice, I can always ask the exhaust shop to wrap the starter with heat wrap.
I bought the exhaust from VI and installed it myself. I had to trim a couple of things to fit and tweak it a bit. Whether you get hassled about driving with open headers is probably a matter of where you live. I was ticketed once for running open pipes on a Harley, so it happens.I agree, just do not wanna pin my self into a situation that I can not get the headers installed and have to put the old manifold back on. Did u do the exhaust urself or go to a shop. Any issues driving it to a shop with open headers?
I installed them from the top and only removed the starter. I put in the studs at each end of the headers to position them, installed the nuts a couple of threads, and reinstalled the starter. Then I put in the remaining studs and tightened all the nuts. The hardest part was installing the lower tubes on my headers and getting them positioned correctly. I doubt it took more than a couple of hours all told to install the headers.Yeh, good point. How long to install the headers do you think? My guess was at least 6-8 hrs minimum. I feel like getting the manifold is straight forward, granted the bolts do not give me any issues. The headers themselves should be more time consuming d/t issues people run into. I would think jacking up the car and coming form underneath would be my best bet, no?
Setting up the linkage is very straightforward, but you can read up on what others have done since it's a common product (Lokar cables). I bought a jet kit but haven't fully sorted the carb yet. I'm replacing part of the floor and will paint the car and worry with all the engine tweaks then.Yeh, the VI and Ebay ones are two pieces. The Clifford are one piece. My biggest concern, besides the starter, is the throttle linkage. Theses companies should provide step by step instructions. At least I think I now have a good approach to this. One last thing, did you have to many any carbs adjustments for idling/running after the install?
If you look at post #19 you'll see Kristas setup; Weber 38 with a direct 2bbl mount.Oh, you did not run it with the 1v Autolite? I am probably gonna run it with my 1v Holley for right now. Others have said I should be fine.
I would suggest a port divider in any case, as the fueling changes for those two cylinders if you don't (I-E pressure differential affecting VE). With EFI, you can tweak to help (band-aid), but with carbs you can't, and those two will limit the others in any case.H without the port divider? I heard it does not sound well that way.