All Small Six Performance question
- Thread starter CWT1129
- Start date
This relates to all small sixes
I was thinking like header wrap, or any wrap made to resist high heat. and yes, for lines, anything that will slow the heat from getting to the oil to fast.
I you search '' heat shield wrap, tape, all kinds of high temp stuff come up, see what your local parts place has.
I you search '' heat shield wrap, tape, all kinds of high temp stuff come up, see what your local parts place has.
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I used that thick heat resistant line and wire wrap and used heat resistant zip ties for that. Than zip tied the lines about 1/4 up and away from the header. It was only touching one cylinder tube. Hopefully this will work and my starter will not fry. Should I use the heat shield for that too?
I did not do anything to my starter when I had headers, never had a problem, more weight, work, and expense but that is up to you.
Wayne clark
Well-known member
I have a 67 Mustang vert 200/c4 . On my car I used the ebay split header & ordered a 2 1/4" dual exhaust set up for a v8 from the collectors back . I had to just figure it out when connecting the system up to the header .
Every body who hears the car thinks it has a v8 in it .
It got to be kind of complicated figuring out my o2 sensor for the 2300 Sniper . I did not use a port divider or any kind of h pipe . It's been fine for the last 4 years now .
Honestley if you want your 200 to run better & have more power just install a 2300 Sniper & In tank efi fuel pump on it. I ran my small log head 200 like that for a time useing the stock small exhaust system & the stock points dist .
Once you face the fact that it's going to cost some bucks to go there & do it you'll be like man I'm so glad I dumped that oem crap because the difference is absolutley amazing.
You can allways do the header & duals after the fact .
I would say just go ahead & do the Hyper Spark dist but most people are freaking out once they start priceing the up grade.
For what it's worth your 200 6 ain't never going to have the performance or power you want useing the oem carb ,& dist .
There is a lot you can do for it but it all cost money.
At this time I'm running a Paxton supercharger along with everything else.
Every body who hears the car thinks it has a v8 in it .
It got to be kind of complicated figuring out my o2 sensor for the 2300 Sniper . I did not use a port divider or any kind of h pipe . It's been fine for the last 4 years now .
Honestley if you want your 200 to run better & have more power just install a 2300 Sniper & In tank efi fuel pump on it. I ran my small log head 200 like that for a time useing the stock small exhaust system & the stock points dist .
Once you face the fact that it's going to cost some bucks to go there & do it you'll be like man I'm so glad I dumped that oem crap because the difference is absolutley amazing.
You can allways do the header & duals after the fact .
I would say just go ahead & do the Hyper Spark dist but most people are freaking out once they start priceing the up grade.
For what it's worth your 200 6 ain't never going to have the performance or power you want useing the oem carb ,& dist .
There is a lot you can do for it but it all cost money.
At this time I'm running a Paxton supercharger along with everything else.
Nice. I hear ya, money equals performance. I was following the handbook and doing some bolt on mods which will include a 2v carb and a hei distributor. The ebay headers do have a large divider already btw ports 3 and 4. I don’t know if the port divider is warranted for those headers. The SD and Clifford headers do not have that same type of divide. I ran the car with open headers, it was loud as shit. A X or H pipe will def tone it down to a tolerable level. Right niw just trying to get the right sound!
Wayne clark
Well-known member
I totally get the right sound thing . After I got my exhaust system I ordered a set of stainless exhaust tips to put on the system . Just moveing the tips in or out on the pipes changed the sound that comes back into the car when the top is down . I don't really care how loud it is but I want it away from me .
Hey Wayne, did ur tranny lines touch ur headers at all. I know we have different headers, but I was just wondering. My original post was that my tranny cooler lines touch the headers in one spot. I was able to move it up and away about a 1/4 inch and I wrapped the lines with heat wrap for lines and wires. Also used ss zip ties. Anything else I should try. Do not want my tranny overheating!
plez wrap starter not headers. It is not good 4 them, shortening their life.
I got your message about the location of my cooler lines and shot a pic from beneath the radiator looking to the rear of the car. As you can see, the lines run along the seam of the oil pan/engine beneath the motor mounts. You can see the headers above the alternator, so the cooler lines aren't close to the headers at all. I'll be replacing the lines later on and getting the rest of the underside cleaned up.
Hey Kritas, yeh that’s what I thought would say. I called Clifford and they seem to think what I did should be fine. They did say though, if I could move the lines another 1/4 or so it would be better.
I might have to take it to a shop and have them either re routed or maybe something else. The car is fine, just scares me!
I might have to take it to a shop and have them either re routed or maybe something else. The car is fine, just scares me!
Hey Chad, I wrapped the tranny lines with 6” of heat wrap for wires and used ss zip ties. This was the best option right now.
That should be fine. . Don't be scared, just enjoy your classic car!
ur right, See Dub, plenty do it this way - they might use a lill steel zip (5$) for it (rather than plastic - due to heat)
but ur on the right road. "Moved off" was the best action. Feel good?
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but ur on the right road. "Moved off" was the best action. Feel good?
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PSIG
Well-known member
Trans fluid temperatures would increase, both from radiant heat on the lines, and reduced cooler flow due to potential coking deposits restriction to flow. Spot varnishing begins around 235°F, depending on fluid spec's. Hard coking around 260°F, and accelerates exponentially at and above 300°F. So, the average fluid temperature can be below 235°, but deposits still building-up at the spot heat site.
Not only can the deposits block flow, but they can shed to block other areas, orifices and filters, so the problem may not be where you expect it. While you could insert a temperature sensor in your heat sleeve, I wouldn't concern myself to that level... yet. I would monitor current average temperatures, and watch for deviation over time. I would also inspect the fluid regularly, for clarity, darkening and odor. IMO, drive happy until you see any indicators that it needs attention.
Not only can the deposits block flow, but they can shed to block other areas, orifices and filters, so the problem may not be where you expect it. While you could insert a temperature sensor in your heat sleeve, I wouldn't concern myself to that level... yet. I would monitor current average temperatures, and watch for deviation over time. I would also inspect the fluid regularly, for clarity, darkening and odor. IMO, drive happy until you see any indicators that it needs attention.
