Well I'm officially an inline six owner but have a few hopefully simple questions. I found this engine on craigslist and the guy said it ran great and was low mileage etc etc.. Upon picking it up and getting back to the house I noticed it was a remaned ford 200 done by ford (it has a aluminum stamp on the side of the block with this info). It appears it was bored .40 over with main and rod bearings set a .10 I guess my question would be is this acceptable and not considered to much on the main bore? I'd like to start soon and take the engine apart and inspect everything, put new gaskets on and if needed rebuild the engine. I'm excited the funs about to begin!!
Picked up the 200 tonight, now?
- Thread starter caveblazin
- Start date
RichCreations
Well-known member
caveblazin":a66cxphe said:
you can .060 pistons/rings, but it is usually not recommended to go past .040 (or less on a performance engine)
B RON CO said:Hi, X2! Post casting codes from the block and head. There are a few variations. Get the Ford Falcon Performance Handbook for a lot of good info. What is your engine going in? Learn about your engine and come up with a plan. Good luck[/quote
Thanks everyone I purchased the Performance handbook a few days ago so I'm just waiting for it to arrive. My intentions for this engine is part of a Dad/Daughter build and I want it to be solid and a good daily runner for my kiddo.
It came out of a 66 Mustang and the PO said it was on a low mileage vehicle (elder couple). He drove the engine for several months before putting in a V8 I'm going to get a better look at here in a few hours when we start dissecting everything. It is a complete engine with all accessories, carb, starter etc etc..CZLN6":31r80yff said:
I hope at 10 posts I'm not too late to say
W E L C O M E !!!
hope U stay in touch as U go along (don't 4get, we LUV pic).
1) "...Get the Ford Falcon Performance Handbook…" frm Matt at vintage inlines .com.
2) while waiting for delivery: any Index page on these seperate forums 2 our site has a "Classic Inlines" archive.
3) may B after a perusal of each, you can 'fine tune' Qs & details needed w/these live resources here on-line.
I hadda look at the 1st 2 to even know the Qs 2 ask.
So G O O D research (sounds like ur 'on it' right now!) is 1st B4 ANYthing else.
Get yer plan stop to start, carry it out thru the build w/o changes & the result will be a goodun.
W E L C O M E !!!
hope U stay in touch as U go along (don't 4get, we LUV pic).
1) "...Get the Ford Falcon Performance Handbook…" frm Matt at vintage inlines .com.
2) while waiting for delivery: any Index page on these seperate forums 2 our site has a "Classic Inlines" archive.
3) may B after a perusal of each, you can 'fine tune' Qs & details needed w/these live resources here on-line.
I hadda look at the 1st 2 to even know the Qs 2 ask.
So G O O D research (sounds like ur 'on it' right now!) is 1st B4 ANYthing else.
Get yer plan stop to start, carry it out thru the build w/o changes & the result will be a goodun.
Which carb is this? Couldnt find a number just "Ford" ID on it. No serial numbers or markings..
The Carb is an Autolight 1100 with a SCV looks like you don't have the correct (matching) 1966 or older LOD distribor to use it with though. It appears that you do have the newer and better 1968 type distribor which has both a centrivical and vaccum advance, thats a good one for a point type Distribitor. Also looks like you have a good Blaster coil, maybe you also have the Pertonix electronic ignistion inside that Distribitor. Good luck 
bmbm40":3a1nswa5 said:
Its going into a 66 Mustang Coupe and I've looked over and over again and I'm reading C6 I even felt the break on the numbers and it feels like a 6 haha of course I'm no expect with these engines but am learning fast..
Don't forget:
2) while waiting for delivery: any Index page on these separate forums 2 our site has a "Classic Inlines" archive.
Classic Inlines formed this site and has alot of good free readily available info.
1) Suggestion- get a carb to match ur distributor. The 'archive' at the index page for this forum will show U the way. (Third horizontal line above, click on "144-250 "Sm blk…" and see a stared CI archive"). Go to a LOM/SCV page, carbs pre/post '68, etc).
2) Also a swap in of "DSII" (post '77?) ignition system.
if wishing to machine that engine B4 installation (not sure what wuz done as indicated by the plate straped on) a modern cam (plus the guides listed in Handbook &/or CI archive) with the other 2 suggestions would B about all I'd suggest (3<valve job, etc).
Block casting is on carb side below & behind the 'down tube' of the exhaust…mights well ID it too!
2) while waiting for delivery: any Index page on these separate forums 2 our site has a "Classic Inlines" archive.
Classic Inlines formed this site and has alot of good free readily available info.
1) Suggestion- get a carb to match ur distributor. The 'archive' at the index page for this forum will show U the way. (Third horizontal line above, click on "144-250 "Sm blk…" and see a stared CI archive"). Go to a LOM/SCV page, carbs pre/post '68, etc).
2) Also a swap in of "DSII" (post '77?) ignition system.
if wishing to machine that engine B4 installation (not sure what wuz done as indicated by the plate straped on) a modern cam (plus the guides listed in Handbook &/or CI archive) with the other 2 suggestions would B about all I'd suggest (3<valve job, etc).
Block casting is on carb side below & behind the 'down tube' of the exhaust…mights well ID it too!
Howdy Back All
Hey cave blazin, you might have to take a wire brush to the casting code on the intake manifold to be able to tell if the casting number is a "6" or an "8". It's not a big difference for the head, but that will tell you if you have a Spark Control Valve (SCV) distributor and Load-O-Matic (LoM) Autolite 1100 carb combo or if you have the later '68 non SCV Autolite 1100 and a vacuum advance/retard distributor. From the pictures it appears that you have a mismatched '65 SCV carb with a '68 distributor. To be sure, remove the distributor cap and take a photo. then we can tell for sure what you're got.
FYI- the later distributor is better but you will need a later, non SCV 1100 to match the distributor which needs a ported vacuum source from the carb to operate correctly.
FYI- FoMoCo changed from the SCV carb and LoM distributor in the '68 model year to a non SCV Autolite 1100 and a distributor with both centrifugal and vacuum advance. Better for emissions, performance and economy. But they down-sized the 1100 carb from 185 cfm to 150 cfm in '68. Not good for performance.
So, your first decision will be to decide which way you want to go to match carb and distributor.
Keep it coming.
Adios, David
Hey cave blazin, you might have to take a wire brush to the casting code on the intake manifold to be able to tell if the casting number is a "6" or an "8". It's not a big difference for the head, but that will tell you if you have a Spark Control Valve (SCV) distributor and Load-O-Matic (LoM) Autolite 1100 carb combo or if you have the later '68 non SCV Autolite 1100 and a vacuum advance/retard distributor. From the pictures it appears that you have a mismatched '65 SCV carb with a '68 distributor. To be sure, remove the distributor cap and take a photo. then we can tell for sure what you're got.
FYI- the later distributor is better but you will need a later, non SCV 1100 to match the distributor which needs a ported vacuum source from the carb to operate correctly.
FYI- FoMoCo changed from the SCV carb and LoM distributor in the '68 model year to a non SCV Autolite 1100 and a distributor with both centrifugal and vacuum advance. Better for emissions, performance and economy. But they down-sized the 1100 carb from 185 cfm to 150 cfm in '68. Not good for performance.
So, your first decision will be to decide which way you want to go to match carb and distributor.
Keep it coming.
Adios, David
First off thank you all for your help so far I really love this forum. I haven't gotten flamed for newbie questions although Im sure those will come haha You have all been very welcoming and helpful... Ok so I have more pics here is the dizzy cap taken off and also the block ID which appears to go along with the head ID so I'm going with the #6 I even tried to clear off the numbers on the head and they all appear to still be 6
So I know its premature before I have gotten the Handbook but I definitely wanna have a solid good performance engine that will be decent mpg (notice I said decent lol) and all around good runner for a new driver. Are there carbs that have electric choke or similar?
"...any Index page on the forums of our site has a "Classic Inlines" archive…." Check it out while waiting. Click on 3rd line frm top above.caveblazin":xpllnjb1 said:
there R ways of making THAT carb wrk with THIS dizzy if ur handy. Otherwise (or more effectively) there's autolites, carter, webers, rochesters, etc, etc. The thing is…
the motor and whole vehicle are a system and 1 change to 1 prt means it effects the rest. To ans. ur Q I'd ask - "what do U wanna 'do' w/the vehicle?" Frm there items R picked to create the best for your application. To simplyfy a standard answ would B: 1v carbs are good for economy, simplicity, tq. If ur application is a bit racier & fun filled…blah blah blah.
It looks like U have an autolite 1100? (hafta look again) Y not do the operation 2 it, if unhappy get the post '68 same model? I have a YF that wrks nicely and is more available.
I've been reading the inline classic forums and its a huge wealth of knowledge. I'll be busy for the next several days lol
Howdy caveblazin and All:
You have options on carbs, but the only one to fit with no adapting or modifying is the Autolite 1100. The good news is that you can buy and adapt an electric choke to any of the one barrels, so that's not much of an issue. But know that choke adjustment is usually required spring and fall, depending on your climate.
Another delima is the change from SCV to NON-SCV. IIWIYS, I'd definitely go with the earlier carb for the higher CFM rating. THe SCV can be modified to function as a NON-SCV. Look for a detailed post here on the forum on how to modify it. Another option is to look for an 1101 NON SCV Autolite from a '69 Mustang with a 250 engine. The good news is increased CFM at 210 and a direct bolt on, except that the top of the carb adapter will have to be flared to accommodate the larger butterfly valve. Linkage, gas line and choke are the same. The vacuum line from the distributor goes to a ported vacuum source on the carb.
All of the other one barrels have no SCV. All of them would require adapting for linkage, fuel line hook up, mounting issues, and choke. All range from 187 cfm to 215 cfm. None are available new. The are Carter YF and RBS. There are also the infamous Holley 1940 Service Replacement Carbs and the 1979 and later Holley 1946. I can't recommend these.
The distributor you have is OK, better than the LoM. Ideally, down the road you may opt for a DuraSpark II ignition system. But you also have the option of adding a Petronix Ignitor to replace the points in your distributor. The Ignitor and the coil you have in the picture makes this a pretty good system. FYI- your '68 distributor has a unique vacuum canister with a nipple inside of the canister and one on the outside. The inner one is a vacuum retard function. It was one of FoMoCos earliest emmission friendly attempts. For best performance and economy unhook it at the nipple and plug the hose or the source.
If you haven't already done so, you may want to buy a Service Manual for your car.
Keep it coming.
Adios, David
You have options on carbs, but the only one to fit with no adapting or modifying is the Autolite 1100. The good news is that you can buy and adapt an electric choke to any of the one barrels, so that's not much of an issue. But know that choke adjustment is usually required spring and fall, depending on your climate.
Another delima is the change from SCV to NON-SCV. IIWIYS, I'd definitely go with the earlier carb for the higher CFM rating. THe SCV can be modified to function as a NON-SCV. Look for a detailed post here on the forum on how to modify it. Another option is to look for an 1101 NON SCV Autolite from a '69 Mustang with a 250 engine. The good news is increased CFM at 210 and a direct bolt on, except that the top of the carb adapter will have to be flared to accommodate the larger butterfly valve. Linkage, gas line and choke are the same. The vacuum line from the distributor goes to a ported vacuum source on the carb.
All of the other one barrels have no SCV. All of them would require adapting for linkage, fuel line hook up, mounting issues, and choke. All range from 187 cfm to 215 cfm. None are available new. The are Carter YF and RBS. There are also the infamous Holley 1940 Service Replacement Carbs and the 1979 and later Holley 1946. I can't recommend these.
The distributor you have is OK, better than the LoM. Ideally, down the road you may opt for a DuraSpark II ignition system. But you also have the option of adding a Petronix Ignitor to replace the points in your distributor. The Ignitor and the coil you have in the picture makes this a pretty good system. FYI- your '68 distributor has a unique vacuum canister with a nipple inside of the canister and one on the outside. The inner one is a vacuum retard function. It was one of FoMoCos earliest emmission friendly attempts. For best performance and economy unhook it at the nipple and plug the hose or the source.
If you haven't already done so, you may want to buy a Service Manual for your car.
Keep it coming.
Adios, David
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