Pickup coil

[Anonymous]

Can you test to see if a pickup coil is working or not with the dizzy out of the motor xe 4.1, I had no spark at all, ive replace the coil and the module is ok and still no spark, i had a spare dizzy with no module so swap dizzys and put the module in and it fired up no worries, the only thing ive found with using this dizzy I dont seem to have the same power output as with the other my ute is and auto 4.1, I read some early posts where Alloydave gave some casting numbers on the dizzys, the one that ive got in is from a manual 3.3......#is 9-230-064-710 and the one that I had in was from and xd # 9-230-064-705 and this ran well until it pack in, can I swap the pickup coils over if this is the problem, also read where Addo said there a prick to remove, which is the best way to go here

The xd dizzy 9-230-064-705 can someone tell me if its from a 4.1 auto / manual or 3.3

Thanks Joip

 

[Anonymous]

Joip,
The difference in performance would be in the different advance curves of the different distributors.
No I cannot help on the casting/model numbers.
To change over the pick up coil system in the distributor is a major operation as the distributor has to be disassembled down completely and rebuilt with the different pick ups.
What you could try is to make sure the advance in the distributor that you have fitted is actually working.
I take it that you have access to a timing light.
Set the timing to the specifications.
Run the motor to a fast speed, i.e. around 2000rpm. Make sure the timing mark is moving around the harmonic balancer.
Try this with the vacuum hose connected and then disconnect it.
The timing mark should still move around the harmonic balancer but not as much.
Both should move the timing mark for the engine to make good power.
Try this and get back to us.
Noel.

 

[addo]

You can test the pickup coil with a mouldymeter. Simply check for continuity between the two thinner green wires unplugged from the module. You need too remove the module cover to do this (ignition off!). Check all your grounds, too. Aluminium can react over time with the steel to form a poorly conducting film of oxide.

Test the mech advance by seeing if the rotor has a "springy" resistance to turning in the normal direction of rotation, when you twist it by hand.

It's da phat bass man, shakin' your ride to death.

Adam.

 

[Anonymous]

Ok I did those tests had the timing set at 10degs btdc ran it at 2000rpms, with the vacuum hose connected and then disconnected it didnt move off the 10degs, also there was no "springy" resistance with the rotor when I tried to twist by hand.....so maybe the vacuum advance not working ???

On the other dizzy thats out of the car I tested with a multmeter there is no reading, my 2 wires were black

so guys what do you think is it worth fixing my dizzy, like mixing the 2 to make one or just try and get another one from the wreckers or any other options

Thanks Joip

 

[addo]

My mistake, the wires are black. There should be a few thousand ohms resistance. There's about three circlips which have to come off to pull the coil.

I have two more XE dizzies I bought last fortnight. Both have side-side slop in the upper bushing, and the mech advance is sticky, not springy. You can check the vacuum advance by sucking on the canister nozzle. It should not flow air!

It's my guess that the coil's fine, just the dizzy needs an overhaul. Expect to pay a bit over $125 plus any parts. Going to have to start doing these for a business, I think!

Regards, Adam.

 

[Anonymous]

Joip,
If the timing mark didnt move at 2000 rpm at all, then both advances are not working.
First, fit a hose to the vacuum advance unit.
With the distributor cap and rotor button off. Suck on the hose. If no vacuum/air leak is noted the the diaphragm is punctured, replace unit, (vacuum advance unit).
The outer ring should rotate, around in the distributor housing. This gives the vacuum advance at part throttle.
With the rotor button removed. Spray/drop penetrating type spray into the centre of the shaft. The inner and outer shafts of the distributor should be separate.
Leave the spray/penetrating oil in for a couple of days and spray/drop in some more everyday.
Check after a couple of days.
What you want is to have the springy resistance when the rotor button is turned on the distributor shaft.
Noel.
P.S. The last distributor I had recoed cost $275.00. Not worth it at all!

 

[addo]

Whaddaya mean, not worth it? You've shot my business plans down in flames.

From experience, about 40 minutes for initial clean/pre-dismantle. An hour to dismantle/clean most of the rest. $20 to bead blast the housing. Bushing cost as yet unknown (not been needed before). End-float shimmed with washers from old dizzies. Reassembly and clearancing up to two hours more. New cap and rotor (Echlin) about $30.

Adam.

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks Backlash and Addo, at least i know what the problem is and how to go bout fixing it
Just imagine Addo I could of been your 1st customer but Backlast pull the rug lol

Joip

 

[addo]

The moral of that story is... When you get good at fixing things, there's always work to do. :roll:

 

[Anonymous]

Last time I enquired I was able to buy a complete brand new dizzy for less than it cost to get a rebuild kit for it. Problem is I can;t remember where that was anymore. I would try ford strangley enough I tink their price for a complete dizzy was quite reasonable. They don;t make the top bush anymore either and the bottom bush is the actual alumninium housing so if is is flogged out then you are screwed!

 

[addo]

I'll check out the new unit costs. The lower part of the shaft locates in the block, so the alloy housing doesn't matter there. The upper bush - well, I don't see why it can't be sleeved (bronze?), made up, or possibly track one down from the rebuilders.

Very few people periodically apply light oil to the top-of-the-shaft felt. That will save the advance from gumminess. There is a pop-off access plate at the side of the body, that lets you see the advance mechanism. Maybe another good place to apply solvent to free it up.

Adam.

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks for all the help guys, I have all this weekend to play around with it, see how it goes

Joip

 

[alloydave]

Gidday,
sorry i havnt got on to this one sooner ive been fishing up the far north for the last 10 days .
Joip i will check my book on monday for your casting numbers .
ive got an old manual that says the way to check the pickup coil is to switch off ignition remove the number 3 and 7 from ignition module (the 2 black wires) and test resistance ,you should have 1,000- 1,200 ohms resistance. Also if theres no spark at all ,you need a -60-0-60 ammeter
connect the ammeter in series with the wire connecting terminal 16 of the control unit ,with the negative terminal on your coil ,turn on ignition but dont crank the engine ,the ammeter shoul read zero ,if not the control unit is shagged.
hope this is of some help

cheers dave 67xr6

 

[addo]

To confuse the issue - I am tearing into the first dizzy of the current pair, and it ends in -716.

Wouldn't the Ford part number be a better indicator? Just wondering; this one is an 82DA prefix...

FWIW, the mech advance is all but frozen here. The felt was dry and rusty, someone last in there has used wrong grease on weights; dry/sticky. Vacuum advance also sticky. Nothing appears broken or missing; will evaluate shaft play once clean.

These things make quite enjoyable evening projects.

Adam.

 

[alloydave]

JOIP
looks like the 9-230-064-705 came out of a 3.3 or 4.1 auto falcon or
tf cortina high comp engine.

ADDO looks like the 9-230-064-716 came out of a xe 4.1 auto

cheers dave 67xr6

 

[Anonymous]

I poke around the wreckers on the weekend a few more cars had come in found another dizzy that look in reasonable condition, did a few tests like you guys told me with both advances, the # match up to a 4.1 auto 9-230-064-711, put it in and the car is running great, timing mark moves when with more rpm is given

With the other 2 that I have will sit down on a quite nite and hopefully make 1

Thanks all couldn't of done it without ya's

Joip