Pics of my new motor during assembly

Lectrik wipers huh....gosh kid, you'ens right up do date now! :lol: Next you'll probably gonna' want one'a them seegar lighter things! :wink:

Harry
 
Got a lot done today.

I filled the motor up with oil and primed the pump. We ran the pump with a drill untill we saw the oil dripping from the rocker shafts.

Got the new seals for the transmission. The new seal for the driveshaft has a boot that covers the slip yoke. Very nice. Mounted the torque converter and the transmission to the engine.

Is 3/8 copper tubing OK for transmission cooler lines? Because thats what we have on hand. :lol:

The engine/trans are hanging on the hoist right now waiting to be installed into the car the morning. I'll need new rubber hoses, new spark plugs, and a tank of fresh gas to start the engine.
 
The motor is in and almost everything is installed. Our main problems now are:

1.) no spark
2.) what to do about the transmission cooler
3.) need to clean up the wiring

I'm going to check out a DSII diagram while I'm on today, but I think my spark box might be burned up. I have a cheap-o "universal ignition switch" from Autozone that I put on the car because I didn't have the original switch with the car. Thinking the cheap switch might have stuck with the ignition on after I removed the key and burnt up the box. :(

I looked at several "transmission cooler kits" the other day but all they came with was one fitting and a length of rubber hose. Must be for a GM application :lol:

Dad pieced together some lines coming down from the transmission with the copper tubing and fittings we had, and I put a loop of rubber hose on them to use untill we can figure out what to do with the rest of the lines. When we were replacing the pan gasket a piece of broken band fell out of the case. I will probably take it to a transmission shop and see what they suggest about the cooler and the broken band. The trans shifted fine before.

We also hooked the EGR manifold to the flat gasket exhaust pipe. Which should do untill I can drive it to a muffler shop to get a proper exhaust installed. It will need an entire system because whats on there now is held together with hose clamps and coat hangers. :roll:

I got new radiator hoses, I added a ball valve to the heater hoses, and a lot more that I can't remember.

Hopefully next week we will have it running. :twisted:
 
Picture039-1.jpg


Dad adds oil:
Picture017-2.jpg


Priming tool:
Picture019-2.jpg


Found this on the driveshaft:
Picture028-1.jpg


Engine is in but now I have to touch up the paint where it skinned it on the brace :lol:
Picture034.jpg
 
Hopefully I'll start it this week sometime. We turned it over trying to start it on Tuesday but I'm thinking we are dealing with a bad coil.

The crappy universal fit (which always means GM :lol: ) ignition switch I have been using has a tendency to stick in the "on" position. I think when I parked the Falcon last time it killed the coil.

I have a real Falcon switch I need to be using, but it has the cylinder still inside it and I don't know how to take the cylinder out. So I can't mount it in the dash yet.

Should I repeat the process for priming the engine before I try to start it again?

Also, I have some paper gaskets that I made by hand mounting the YF and the adapter to the log. My dad is concerned about heat soak and says I should have a plastic spacer of some kind. I have ran it with the paper gaskets just fine for as long as I have had the car, and I haven't ever seen plastic spacers for 1 barrels before. Should I worry about it?
 
BIGREDRASA":2ux1it81 said:
To remove lock cyl: Stick paperclip into small hole @ 5 O'clock. Insert key and turn past Acc. Pull out cylinder.
Click to expand...

Cool, I'll try that as soon as I get a chance. I'm hoping to get a matching set of locks eventually. :lol:

Also have to get the transmission cooler issue sorted out. Are double-flare steel lines the method of choice for trans coolers? I have a friend who says he's pretty good with a flaring tool and a tubing bender so hopefully we will be able to figure it out. Also, I am assuming a flexibile joint will be needed somewhere in the system, is it ok to just use rubber hose and hose clamps?
 
A flex joint would be a good idea as the transmission will be moving independant of the cooler. Hose is fine, just make sure it is rated for oil.

I prefer working with aluminum line because steel is such a bitch to work with. YMMV
 
I would rather get the supplies locally, I think the size is 3/8".

My dad was flloing with the car today, he said he tested the coil today and it is good. He also said that he tried the duraspark box that was on the car on his V8 truck and it wouldn't start it.

So maybe my duraspark box is bad. Which is unlikely because its a brand new box.

Dad is also swearing up and down that I need a ballast resistor. I've been trying to tell him that DSII does not need a resistor but he won't listen. :roll:
 
Latest update:

My dad said he replaced the coil and installed the DSII box from his truck. He said that as he tried to start it, it shot a big fireball from the exhaust.

Distributor 360 degrees out of time and firing on the exhaust stroke is my guess. :lol:
 
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