Pictures of Throttle cable set up??

I have been working another angle on the throttle cable issue. I purchase a
69 mustang pedal $60
Spectre universal cable $24
Spectre cable throttle bracket $10
Springs $5
I do not have my engine back from the machine shop yet but hopefully next week. If this setup works I will provide step-by-step directions and detailed parts list as well as install photos (once I get website back up) for a Direct Mount Holly 2 bb 200. Total cost 99.00.


Mike said he will still look for the kit or even make one. I think there would be a lot of interest out there for a kit..Respond if you think so.

Steve
 
Sure was tough, but with a little perseverance I found them again. I sent an e-mail to the supplier (wholesale only) requesting info and pricing, but I haven't heard anything back as of yet. I have no idea what they cost as they don't list prices on their website. I'll probably need to set up an account first, then order a dozen sets so we can see how they work out. If this works like I think, not only will it be the easiest way to convert to a cable (and the cheapest), it also allows you to keep the stock accelerator pedal. The kit includes everything you need, including the firewall bracket, carb bracket, cable, a connection rod, and all the little bits and pieces. Seems pretty straight forward and very adaptable.

Here's a bigger pic.
cableconvLG.jpg
 
Just checking to make sure you're aware that Fox-body pedals and cables work too. After all, my Fairmont w/200 came stock that way, and they are readily available at J/Yards.
 
2Blew2B":1p8tc59u said:
Azstang66,
What cable did you use?

Still looking for this info if anyone knows :

LIST the dimension from the fire wall to a 350/500 Holly???

Hoping mike will send us the link for his earlier post

Steve

I used a Lokar universal throttle cable; just can't remember what the length was.

FALCONAROUND":1p8tc59u said:
Dayam AZStang! Where did you get 7 inch THICK plug wires, an do they perform better than all the rest or is it just bling for the ride?

It's one of Mike's (azcoupe) DUI units. It increases horsepower, etc. but the biggest noticeable difference is the starting. Starts first time, first crank, every time. The wires look so big because they have a sleeve covering them.
 
AzCoupe":2ycbc90j said:
Sure was tough to find it again, but with a little perseverance, I did it. I sent an e-mail to the supplier (wholesale only), but haven't heard anything back as of yet. I suppose I'll need to set up an account. No idea of the price, as they don't list it on their website, but I'll order a dozen so we can see how they work out. I think this will be the easiest way to convert to a cable, as well as the cheapest, as the kit includes everything needed. Firewall bracket, carb bracket, cable, connection rod, and all the little bits and pieces.

let me know when you get 'em in, and what the price is, i'll order one
 
Mike,
Outstanding work as usual....finally a new part solution.

Can we make this post a STICKY for others to see?

Steve
 
I used a Lokar and made my own bracket. Let me see if I can find some pics. I have it set up now so I can switch between my Holley 350 or a H/W 5200 with the same cable.
 
Ditto on the Lokar. I used the midnight series pedal setup and a 2ft cable. I directed it from the bracket on the pedal to a homemade bracket hanging off the rear mount of my Offy 3x1 adapter (using a 3" length of "L" shaped piece of aluminum for the bracket) and connected it to the middle throttle linkage for the Offy. The Lokar pedal makes if extremely easy to adjust and is heads and tails over the original flexy rod in my '66.

Worth every penny and looks great next to orginal pedals. :wink: If anyone wants to host pics I can send them.

Jay
 
2Blew2B":nqk2k8fd said:
I have been working another angle on the throttle cable issue. I purchase a
69 mustang pedal $60
Spectre universal cable $24
Spectre cable throttle bracket $10
Springs $5

Steve

I used the same pedal from a 69 Mustang for my 61 Falcon Ranchero...I used a Lokar universal cable...I did buy a 4bbl carb spring kit which needed some mods to fit the 350...I will be back and post some pics later...I also had to modify the pedal assembly to make it work...the work was minimal.
I also built a fancy return spring bracket that works very nicely and I think it looks good.
be back later with pics...
Dave
 
So I have a 65 Falcon and I was wondering if the 65 mustang v8 pedal will work or if i will have to weld on a piece of medal to pull on the throttle cable as I am having a hard time locating a v8 falcon accelerator linkage.
 
2Blew2B":1dqz5i37 said:
DOES anyone have pictures of a cable throttle setup to a holly 350? I have asked many times but can't seem to get any responses. Please post pictures and what you used for your system. I would like to make have this made into a STICKY. I feel it needs to be.

Please just cable setups. I know there are ways to modifiy the rod system but I don't want to do that.

Steve

I'm using a '71 Maverick six car - pedal and cable setup. When I first got the Clifford 250 up and running, I used the good running 350 - 7448 / 2300 series Holley through a 2X1 adapter and with the outboard ports blocked off.

CARBS2BBLAC_WEB.jpg




On the 250, the 170's 'over the valve cover' cable bracket that attaches behind the Coil bracket, needs to be re-drilled for the taller deck height . ( The HEI ignition trigger is attached on a heat sync ).

ENGINERADFROMFRTRT.jpg


COMET1909sAND7448CARBS.jpg



The stock pedal bracket under the dash fits fine but I needed to shorten the cable a bit because of different firewall angle.

SHIFTERCU.jpg


Here's a good closeup of same cable setup's typical carb linkage (with other carb H/W5200)

LINKAGE1.jpg


Currently using same setup to control center 1bbl carb and progressive outer carbs are simply linked off center carb throttle.
 
Did Mike or anyone else find out where to get this kit? Otherwise, can someone tell me what Lokar kit to purchase?

AzCoupe":1cyfpw2w said:
Sure was tough, but with a little perseverance I found them again. I sent an e-mail to the supplier (wholesale only) requesting info and pricing, but I haven't heard anything back as of yet. I have no idea what they cost as they don't list prices on their website. I'll probably need to set up an account first, then order a dozen sets so we can see how they work out. If this works like I think, not only will it be the easiest way to convert to a cable (and the cheapest), it also allows you to keep the stock accelerator pedal. The kit includes everything you need, including the firewall bracket, carb bracket, cable, a connection rod, and all the little bits and pieces. Seems pretty straight forward and very adaptable.

Here's a bigger pic.
cableconvLG.jpg
 
Hi AzCoupe,

Any luck getting the supplier info on the cable conversion and bracket setup? This seems like its the best all around solution that allows you to keep your stock accelerator cable.
 
Here is my throttle cable setup using a Lokar DP-1000HT36 cable purchased from Summit into my Autolite 2100 (I have a 2V conversion on the head). A few notes:

- If you look at the picture on Summit you can kind of tell that the gas pedal end is a clevis. My stock pedal was a U-shaped piece of metal with a hole drilled in it, this didn't at all fit a clevis. I don't have any pictures of this but what I did was mash the top inch or two of my gas pedal in a vise until it was flat. Then I drilled a hole through this and the clevis bolted on no problem.

- The throttle linkage on an Autolite 2100 2V ends up forward of the stock arrangement, and the fuel inlet on the passenger side. These pictures maybe aren't the greatest but they show how I made two "arms" angling off the two front corners of the carb. The arm that points to the valve cover is where I installed the throttle cable bracket. The other arm, pointing off towards the passenger side, I had intended to run a Lokar kickdown cable to, but the geometry turned out to be too complicated so I gave up on it. I just disconnected the kickdown completely, I figure I don't really need it.

- Anyway, I would not say that my arrangement is maybe the best in the world, and it has required a lot of fiddling to get right, but it does work for me. I don't have welder so I was forced to do all my fabrication with aluminum channel, hand tools, and regular fastners (bolts/nuts). But hopefully this might give people some general ideas of what you can do.


If you click on the photos you can see a larger version, on some of the larger versions I have scrawled some notes.


Throttle cable on the right, Lokar springs to a bracket on the left, and the left side angled bracket was for a kickdown linkage that I did not use. My throttle cable/bracket barely clears the valve cover, and I have a spacer underneath my carb that lifts it about 1/2". So you have to think ahead about this problem. Given how low down the throttle arm is on the carburetor the valve cover is something of a challenge.



Slightly different angle. The Lokar springs in this configuration did a good job of "pulling" the throttle cable back towards the passenger side when the gas pedal was released, but they did not go the final 5% of pulling the throttle lever "down" towards the ground. So I had to add more springs, shown in the next picture.



Here the throttle cable is disconnected and the Lokar fitting has been flipped over to the passenger side (I was getting ready to remove the carb when I took these photos), so don't let that confuse you. The important thing here is to notice the two thin springs that go down to a new bracket underneath the carb, these pull the throttle lever closed the last 5% and work very well.



Another view. Also notice that these new springs attach to the ball-stud on the carb throttle lever, where I had originally put my Lokar throttle cable. Now the Lokar throttle cable attaches to a screw-in ball stud a bit higher on my aluminum "throttle lever extension arm." A screw-in ball stud is included with the Lokar kit. Now there is really nowhere left to connect a kickdown linkage but like I say, I don't really need kickdown, I can do it manually.
 
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