Pony Carbs 4100 Spreadbore

[Quick 8]

Since pony carbs are gone, and I can't get one from them, I wanted to buy one of these from someone else who might have one, but haven't been able to find one.

So, does anyone know how I could build my own? Does anyone know what's involved?

Thanks.
-Jim

 

[xctasy]

Yeah, the 4-bbl Autolite 4300 and 4350 that replaced it were good carbs, but they broke often, and the earlier Holley 4-bbls were thristy. The 4100 and 2100/2150 stand as one of Fords Better Ideas.

Autolites are waaaay easier to service than Holleys. Fewer leak paths and more robust circuitry.

They are very space inefficienct, so you have to concentrate on the throttle and kickdown linkages, your best copying the Lockar set up for Eldebrock 4-bbls. You find it on any non prefromance 4-bbl that isn't a 4300/4350 Auotlite. You will need to pull the K cluster, and inspect it to ensure the brass well tubes are free from Well tube hairline cracks, but basically, you can do anything to any 4100, and get it set up to suit.

The well tube ( K cluster.) cracks are the only problem, and there was a change in jets from Holley to Ford F stamp. The jetting is easily interchanged. If the venturis are too big, you chan down size them with a two primary or evens secondary brass insets.

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=70651

For best info, re-read WerebyFord's posts on jet sizes. Search the WerbyFord Werbly Gonkulator. There are some ballpark F Jet interchanges for these carbs.

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=58317&p=454162#p454162

Explorer,
Sweet looking engine!
If you are as anxious as I would be here is a suggestion:
Spend on the header and exhaust, then look here for a decent used Autolite 4100 carb:

http://www.network54.com/Forum/88781/

The Ford Carb forum is a great bunch and you can usually find a good Autolite 4100 there. Sometimes these are quoted as a "600cfm" carb but I think that must be a non-standard rating at 2" Hg. Bob Sprowl of the FE Ford site had some dry flow tested and the results are on his site at

http://www.fordfe.info/Autolite4100Test.htm

So I figure the common 1.12 Autolite 4100 is a 500cfm carb at the standard of 1.5" Hg. Still a bit big but useable, very well mannered, and it will get you going. Then you can keep it as a spare for when the Holley is in a bad mood, or you can always sell a factory Auto 4100 and get most of your money back.

I agree with the "drive and Edel (or Autolite), race a Holley" quote above so I keep both types handy. Every carb shootout I do on the Gtech, it is always a Holley that wins. But, they drink gas so for a long trip the Autolites (probably Edel's too) will leave you some money left over for the strip entry fee.


PS, do you know the weight and trans gear ratios in that Bronco?

Normally cautionaires apply

http://fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=69860


You won't have a problem with this carb, Ford only stopped making them due to anti-trust legislation over patents, Autolite pioneered annullar discharge venturis, but the idea was British, and poorly patented. My understanding is that if they continued with the 4-bbl 4100 as well as the 2100/2150, Ford would have prospered too much from existing bought up Bendix Technico patents, and then would have ended up paying money to Bendix Technico for patents. Ford set up there own Autolite business for a while, and then got Holley and Carter to supply there 4-bbl carbs before the Feds whould have forced them to dissassmble there carb operation.


For us, the best carb 4-bbl died in 1968. Although the Autolite 4300 and 4350 were great cold starters, and made massive performance (it was the DeTomaso Pantera carb for many years), it was not a patch on the 4100.

 

[Quick 8]

Thanks for the reply, as well as the links and references. What I was thinking of doing was what pony carbs did, which is to sleeve the primary of a 1.12 carb 4 barrel carb down to about 1". Also, I have a 1.01 2100 2 barrel carb, that I was thinking of using the booster cluster (K cluster?) from.

My biggest questions are, other than the booster cluster, and primary jets, and a different primary venturi, what else would I need to change?
Also, does anyone know where to get a 1" venturi for the primaries?

Thanks.
~Jim