I've got this old 9n (well maybe it's a 2n) 1942/43 vintage. Since I picked it up, I've performed the following updates.
Head machined straight (it was shaped like a banana)
Helicoil the headbolt hole that allowed the head to warp, the PO used a length of ready rod as a headbolt. :roll:
New Rings/rods/mains, I had the pistons/rods hot tanked.
Replaced the oil pump with one from a different motor, the old one had 'self clearanced' it's back cover.
New coil
new points
new plugs
After reassembly it didn't start. It has compression but it's weak and I don't have a compression tester that works, apparently I broke 1 and the other one is 'stuck', so I don't have numbers. With the plugs out you can feel it build compression (these aren't high compression motors) and with the carb off it will suck your hand onto the carb opening.
The distributor can only go on one way, there is a slotted groove in the cam that is offset to one side. The distributor mounts to the front of the motor and the drive from the dist has a 'key' on it that is also offset and will only mate to the cam shaft in one location. I tried both, you can't even get the bolts anywhere close to tight when it's 180° off.
I have a manual at home so after several failed attempts to start, I pulled the timing cover and verified the timing marks. I know it gets spark you can see it when you have all 4 plugs out but still hooked up to the wires.
The original carb has had several repairs to it in the past and is best listed as 'parts' but the working carb with the same throat opening size off of my CoOp E4 bolts right on. So I know I have spark and fuel, but the best I've ever gotten is an intermittent pop or backfire. I've tried it this with a brand new 6v battery and no resistor wire, I've tried it with a 12v batt and a GM resistor block inline to the coil. The only difference has been that the motor spins faster when I use a 12v. There is no generator and no lights in the dash, AND the original resistor is burned out, so aside from the ignition there is no other 6v only parts to worry about.
I know there has to be something that I'm missing, maybe my manual at home is incorrect about the crank to cam timing or it might be wrong about the firing order (quadruple checked by me, and double checked by my brother) but that doesn't mean our source of information is correct.
This tractor has been taking up space in my shop for almost 2years now. And I've never had so many new parts correctly replaced and things not work out. Granted I don't go out and work on this thing everyday, heck it's lucky if I work on it once every 6 months. It bugs me that there is some little something on this tractor preventing it from running and I just don't know what to do with it next.
Valve Job? But the valves close all the way and it builds vacuum, and they rotate like they are supposed to, I can spin them by hand.
I should probably buy or borrow a compression gauge to get real numbers and re-re-re check the cam timing.
Anybody got any suggestions?
-ron
Head machined straight (it was shaped like a banana)
Helicoil the headbolt hole that allowed the head to warp, the PO used a length of ready rod as a headbolt. :roll:
New Rings/rods/mains, I had the pistons/rods hot tanked.
Replaced the oil pump with one from a different motor, the old one had 'self clearanced' it's back cover.
New coil
new points
new plugs
After reassembly it didn't start. It has compression but it's weak and I don't have a compression tester that works, apparently I broke 1 and the other one is 'stuck', so I don't have numbers. With the plugs out you can feel it build compression (these aren't high compression motors) and with the carb off it will suck your hand onto the carb opening.
The distributor can only go on one way, there is a slotted groove in the cam that is offset to one side. The distributor mounts to the front of the motor and the drive from the dist has a 'key' on it that is also offset and will only mate to the cam shaft in one location. I tried both, you can't even get the bolts anywhere close to tight when it's 180° off.
I have a manual at home so after several failed attempts to start, I pulled the timing cover and verified the timing marks. I know it gets spark you can see it when you have all 4 plugs out but still hooked up to the wires.
The original carb has had several repairs to it in the past and is best listed as 'parts' but the working carb with the same throat opening size off of my CoOp E4 bolts right on. So I know I have spark and fuel, but the best I've ever gotten is an intermittent pop or backfire. I've tried it this with a brand new 6v battery and no resistor wire, I've tried it with a 12v batt and a GM resistor block inline to the coil. The only difference has been that the motor spins faster when I use a 12v. There is no generator and no lights in the dash, AND the original resistor is burned out, so aside from the ignition there is no other 6v only parts to worry about.
I know there has to be something that I'm missing, maybe my manual at home is incorrect about the crank to cam timing or it might be wrong about the firing order (quadruple checked by me, and double checked by my brother) but that doesn't mean our source of information is correct.
This tractor has been taking up space in my shop for almost 2years now. And I've never had so many new parts correctly replaced and things not work out. Granted I don't go out and work on this thing everyday, heck it's lucky if I work on it once every 6 months. It bugs me that there is some little something on this tractor preventing it from running and I just don't know what to do with it next.
Valve Job? But the valves close all the way and it builds vacuum, and they rotate like they are supposed to, I can spin them by hand.
I should probably buy or borrow a compression gauge to get real numbers and re-re-re check the cam timing.
Anybody got any suggestions?
-ron
