Pulling the engine.

[RPMustang]

Since my son's accident :x :arg: , I have to replace nearly all the sheetmetal in my front end including inner aprons.

I've decided that it would make the repairs much easier if I pull the engine. Besides it'll give me a chance to really detail the bay while I'm at it.

On a 66 inline 200, what are the attachment points to hoist the engine? Do I try to use the carb flange? I'm a bit concerned that the log head isn't THAT strong.

Where else should I attach the hoist chains to?

Thanks,
Lance.

 

[ludwig]

Once you get the engine separated from the transmission, you can hoist it with 3/8" bolts (IIRC). I put one in a spare lug/boss on the driver's side toward the rear and one in a forward hole on the exhaust manifold side. Or maybe it was a spare bolt hole toward the front of the driver's side and the rear of the exhaust manifold. DON'T use the carb flange. Think diagonally; front and rear on opposite sides.

 

[fordconvert]

I pulled engine and transmission together. If you leave the transmission in you have to find a way to support it. If you support it from the ground you cant move the car. If you support it from the car it may be in the way of your detail work. I used spare bell housing bolt on the back and a bolt thats above the oil filter on the front. I have lifted way heavier motors with 3/8 bolts. I would not want to be under them but so far no problems. If pulling with the transmission you need an equalizer bar and be sure to leave some distance between the equalizer and the hoist. This will also mean you need more height on the hoist so make sure you have the headroom.

 

['68falconohio]

If you're swapping the head out, why couldn't you pull the head and use two of those 7/16" holes?

 

[ludwig]

If pulling with the transmission you need an equalizer bar and be sure to leave some distance between the equalizer and the hoist. This will also mean you need more height on the hoist so make sure you have the headroom.

If you go this route, you need to raise the front of the car maybe 8 or 10 inches so that the tailshaft will clear the ground. I used jack stands. I also took out the crossbar between the frame members at the transmission. And the transmission mount, BTW.

 

[RPMustang]

THAT is a great idea!!!

Duhhh... Sometimes it just takes someone pointing out the obvious.

Since we're putting on a C.I. aluminum head to begin with, we might as well pull the head "in the car" and use the head bolt holes to pull the engine!

Thanks!!!!
Lance.

 

[ludwig]

Plug your tailshaft before you hoist the engine/tranny combo up and out. That way you won't drool TF all down the drive and across the front of the car.

 

[redxm]

I strongly recommend an engine leveller/stabiliser to put on the engine crane, it makes the whole process a pleasure, nice and precise adjustments to put the box and engine where it needs to be. Have a look at these pics, you can see the engine leveller in red and i used a strap around the back of the engine/sump and a chain between the block and manifold.
http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb20 ... e85/e3.jpg
http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb20 ... 85/bl2.jpg

The leveller only cost me $30.
In my opinion it is much easier to pull the box and engine as one, just remember to plug the auto lines when you disconnect them from the radiator

 

[kukm66]

Make sure you grease the h___ out of the threads on the levelor or you will strip them

 

[Gene Fiore]

THAT is a great idea!!!

Duhhh... Sometimes it just takes someone pointing out the obvious.

Since we're putting on a C.I. aluminum head to begin with, we might as well pull the head "in the car" and use the head bolt holes to pull the engine!

Thanks!!!!
Lance.

That's what I did. Just use the head bolts, one in each opposite corner to attach the chain.

 

[RPMustang]

Thanks a lot guys.

These are all fantastic recommendations.

Lance.

 

[CobraSix]

Here is how I did it:

http://www.kastang.info/engineremoval1.html

That was with the transmission still attached. I used the third set of holes from the front and the rear set of holes.

I once helped a friend put an 200/T5 back in and we used the front and rear holes only and we ran into some problems that required standing on the back of the block to get the engine to clear.

Regards,