Adding aluminum head to 250 in a 66 Mustang (engine running video added)

The 7-1/4'' will fail if you drive it hard. When my 200 was stock it failed but it was driven like it was stolen. An 8'' will fail if you have a stiff clutch and big sticky slicks and do drag type starts. Just use it till or if you have problems.
With hub caps the bolts should be not seen.
 
The 7-1/4'' will fail if you drive it hard. When my 200 was stock it failed but it was driven like it was stolen. An 8'' will fail if you have a stiff clutch and big sticky slicks and do drag type starts. Just use it till or if you have problems.
With hub caps the bolts should be not seen.
I don't plan to drive it hard or do launches, it's mostly a cruiser but will go wot while rolling already on occasion.
 
a... dipstick, I'll let yall know if it works.
&
post 120 "...just posted Marco on a make do.
see it under "On the 200
..."
Marco isa member, "On the 200..." is nother post in this forum starting w/those wrds in title

But
easier said is:
"drain oil. Fill w/spec amount. Look at test stick or what comes in the mail. Mark/use for correct "full line".
 
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Ran into an issue, the VI carb hat was great for clearance nearly in contact with the hood which is fine. Problem is it's 2 in and suffocating the Holley Street Avenger 350's choke horn causing serious issues so right now no air cleaner. Looked for a carb with no choke and no choke horn that also had spark vacuum advance and this is the lowest cfm I found: Is it too much carb?


I wanted this but no vacuum:

 
More than the choke is vulnerable when an aircleaner housing is too close to the carb. The fuel bowl vent is subject to pressure changes which will affect the mixture in unpredictable ways. What shape is the aircleaner? The only safe shape with a low top is air entering all 'round 360*. Hat type tops are the worst, regardless of height since the air is tumbling around a corner just before entering the carb. If it's a low-top hat, it's good for EFI only IMO.

Of the two above the 2V is the better choice in this situation: It's a smoother surface all round, and the boosters are deeper into the bores. More likely to meter accurately with a low top. No ported vacuum is an issue though.

Small pressure changes at the fuel bowl vent have a hydraulically multiplied effect on the atmospheric pressure on the surface of the fuel in the bowl. If a low filter causes high speed or turbulent air to push air into the vent the pressure increase will cause a rich mixture at the jet. If the vent sees a drop in pressure (usually the situation) the mixture will be leaned. A restricted airflow causes a carb to go lean. The issue gets proportionally worse with heavy throttle.

The carb that would be least affected by a low top is the Edelbrock because the bowl vents are low in the airstream, not sticking up like Holley.
 
This is the current carb hat:


Found this air cleaner on ebay that seems suitable do to having side and top filter elements:


I wonder if this cleaner would work on the current carb. Not sure if the 3" height gives clearance to the hood.

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...auC_H02aKUj5gbT2HqhoCpj0QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Maybe just need to bite the bullet and go holley sniper though I don't want to get that techie with a classic.
 
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I wonder if this cleaner would work on the current carb. Not sure if the 3" height gives clearance to the hood.

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...auC_H02aKUj5gbT2HqhoCpj0QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Maybe just need to bite the bullet and go holley sniper though I don't want to get that techie with a classic.
Try a dropped base one. Like this one. Different sizes available.
 
In terms of even airflow for vent signal and metering, this is the best of your options. Not saying the hat won't work. The hat will change it's effect on mixture based on which way its facing relative to the carb. Visualize the tall bowl vent with it's tapered edge, and the airstream going past it toward the barrels. . There's a reason it's cut facing away from the barrels.
The biggest drawback to the open style is the hot air supply for the carb. It's more significant than may be thought. 1% power change for every 5*F. The hottest air under the hood is at the top. If it's 60* hotter under the closed hood (at times way more than that) than the ambient air, that's 12% power loss. A 150 HP engine just gave up 18hp due to the open-style air filter.
The last thing to consider is noise. This may not bother you, just a reminder that open breathers allow the engine and vacuum noise to escape.
 
I measured clearance with clay and from the carb where cleaners sit to the hood it's a hair over 3" and at one of the hood supports that crosses over the carb and will be a factor it's a hair over 2.25". Think I'll get the jegs oval filter and a .25" spacer to lift it to 2.25." I can also cut the support part that intersects and do a .75" spacer for even more height over the choke horn.

What's the optimal amount of room over the choke horn?

The choke horn is 1.75" tall at it's full open.
 
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I measured clearance with clay and from the carb where cleaners sit to the hood it's a hair over 3" and at one of the hood supports that crosses over the carb and will be a factor it's a hair over 2.25". Think I'll get the jegs oval filter and a .25" spacer to lift it to 2.25." I can also cut the support part that intersects and do a .75" spacer for even more height over the choke horn.

What's the optimal amount of room over the choke horn?

The choke horn is 1.75" tall at it's full open.
I'm less familiar with Holley and Ford carbs. This reveals I was a GM/Mopar guy for 35 years before getting the 300 truck. LOL. The rule of thumb is 2" absolute minimum from the seat of the filter where it sits on the carb, to the top of the filter. Holley's have a high choke tower and even higher bowl vent than Rochester carbs, which had the 2" limit. It's not hard to surmise that only 1/4-1/2" space between the top and choke tower is not going to be sufficient for accurate high demand metering.
If you get the filter with the open top there's no problem except hotter air and more noise. If you could fit a drop-base filter then that helps the flow and allows the top to be closer to the vent. The drop-base improves the carb overall, because the air is smoothed and curved before entering. fluid going around a curve wants to mirror that curve on the other side of the apex. The drop-base curves it upward and it naturally mirrors that curve and turns down into the carb. The most power a BB Chevy made on the dyno testing different filter designs was with a factory drop-down 14" round filter housing with double snorkels. Double digit more HP than no air filter at all. This test was published by the designers of the Quadrajet in the early 1970's. .

At this point the Jegs open-top is your safest bet for correct carb function IMO.
 
Looking to try a different carb without a choke horn, I suppose I can always take the choke horn off as well lol. Currently have a 2 barrel holley street avenger 350cfm. I really don't need a choke, nice to have but I can go without it. According to napkin math the engine needs about 399 cfm's in 2 barrel cfm's which could probably be achieved by just lopping the choke horn off as I have seen it increases cfm. Math in public:

255 cu.in. x 4500 rpm (I'm not running higher) = 1,147,500
1,147,500 / 3456 = 332.03 cfm
332.03 x .85% efficiency = 282.22 cfm (4 barrel cfm's)
282.22 x 1.414 = 399 cfm (2 barrel cfm's)


I'm looking at these two combined to make a high performance two barrel with vacuum, I think that's how it would work anyway if the throttle body was swapped, not sure I have no experience doing so:



Okay learning more about carbs as I go and if I want vacuum on the 4412BKX carb it does appear to have a full manifold vacuum port at the base available to just add the fitting. No ported (spark) vacuum but the throttle body can add it if I actually want it. Once the throttle is open the "spark" port is full vacuum and no different than the manifold vacuum so not sure I need it all that much since it only has no vacuum during idle and if that's smooth even with the dizzy pulling vacuum I don't care too much for it since I care for vacuum advance when out of idle and the throttle is open. All that being said, I'm leaning toward just removing the choke tower on the current street avenger 350cfm with a saw then smoothing it out with a dremel lol
 
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People have run the 350 with good results.
The deal with CFM and carbs is the larger carb will make more top end power but trade off lower speed drivability, a smaller carb will be more responsive and feel more peppy with less top end power.
Sometimes it is personal preference and you have to try difference sizes and pic one.
 
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