Excellent glad to hear of all your progress, congrats on getting the engine down low enough for hood clearance! You should also post sone pictures of everything when you have some time.
Adding aluminum head to 250 in a 66 Mustang (engine running video added)
- Thread starter Stryker7314
- Start date
Stryker7314
Well-known member
Can the steering center link be swapped to be inserted from the bottom to provide clearance for the starter?
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I think I remember that Powerband dropped his center link and retappered holes from the bottom on his Comet when he did an engine swap for a 250 six? You might search through his posts to see how he did it.
Yes. This is the drag link reversal by swapping it to the underside. Power and has done this with his 250 swaps. The linkage needs to have a 10 to perhaps 7 degree tapper machined into it to work. This is a reversal of the stock systems tapper. It's easy to do with the right tool.
A second suggestion, air fuel related, and a very important point discussed by FordSedanDelivery. Advise is: Always use a Center biased, always simultaneous dual barrel 2bbl carb. Or a 4bbl Holley/Carter/Autolite/Motorcraft/Edelbrock/Demon or Summit. The 2bbl Holley/Carter/Autolite/Motorcraft/Edelbrock/Demon all biased to the back of the carb, same as well if it is 2 injector Fast or FiTech or Holley Sniper. All of the air fuel mixture gets pointed to the back two bolts of the long side of the back of the carb or Throttle Body Injector. On an online six, it's a recipe for piston ring collapse due to detonation. The DUI, or Chevy based ignition curve just makes detonation more likely.
The only 2bbls that are simultaneously opening and centrally biased are the 1988-1991 3.2 or 3.8 liter Australian EA Ford Falcon Central Point Injection and the Weber DGA/E/S 38 or EMPI 34 or 38's. One Nissan 2.4 liter Pathfinder or Pickup used the Aussie Ford CFI Stateside...The other choice is the Holley 2305, but it's not simultaneous.
All problems with Classic Inlines or Vintage Inlines idle and peak throttle fuel distribution are because of cylinder 1,2,3,4,5 and 6 air fuel ratio bias. It's caused primarily by bad 2bbl throttle body design, and Chrysler Australia fixed it by better 2bbl manifold design, while Ford Australia fixed it by having a smaller intake plenum.
The 4V Vintage Inlines intake has a huge plenum designed for a 4bbl carb. The US 2bbl carbs and 2bbl Throttle Body EFi's cannot distribute the air fuel evenly.
The exception is the AMC Jeep FAST EFi, a 4bbl Throttle Body EFi with two injectors out of the four being used. Center biased, simultaneously injected.
Totally on board with your always sound ignition advice.
A personal issue from my experience. The problem I have is that adding any Holley/Carter/Autolite/Motorcraft/Rochester CG 2bbl with simultaneous throttles that bias to the back of the carb in a huge Vintage Inline style intake....it will be a combination ripe for detonation. On the Log head with direct mount or an adaptor, it's less of an issue.
The 4V style intake on the Aluminum head requires very good at idle and wide open throttle air fuel distribution. On the Aussie M code 170 HP 250 2V intake, the Tecnico Bendix WW2 worked only because of the work from the dynonometer development engineer. He was one Bill Santicesione, a very clever man who also did the 1970-71 340-350 and 1972 390 HP Phase 1,2,3 and 4 United States M code based GTHO Falcon development engine tunes which dominated Australian Touring Car racing.
The Classic In lines and Vintage Inlines 200/250 intake requires a much better 2bbl carb than Holley/Carter/Autolite/Motorcraft/Rochester or FiTech and Holley Sniper can provide. Don't risk a 350 Holley on any open plenum Classic or Vintage in lines manifold. It's best not to administer wine through a paper cup. 4 bbl carb or Fast Jeep 4 bbl style TBI.
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See Mark Hagen's Jeep AMC 225 Dauntless V6 or 232/ 258 cubic inch in line six Throttle Body Injection post.
The PCV valve he used was also a common problem. All changes from Stock Ford practice creates other problems that can only be solved by Known Solutions.
Marks FAST EFi is one of them, because it can two corner idle. It's an expensive kit, and you have to ask specific questions to get the right kit, which is officially "Marine-only"
See https://fordsix.com/threads/fast-efi-installation-on-200-inline-6.74788/
The full kit requires complementary ignition and starts off at 2.5 K dollars. But unlike all the other kits, it has an ability to have two of its four injectors turned off, and uses the Jeep tuning protocols
This kit here.
"https://www.fuelairspark.com/efi-sy...lf-tuning-engine-control-system-base-kit.html"
The PCV valve he used was also a common problem. All changes from Stock Ford practice creates other problems that can only be solved by Known Solutions.
Marks FAST EFi is one of them, because it can two corner idle. It's an expensive kit, and you have to ask specific questions to get the right kit, which is officially "Marine-only"
See https://fordsix.com/threads/fast-efi-installation-on-200-inline-6.74788/
The full kit requires complementary ignition and starts off at 2.5 K dollars. But unlike all the other kits, it has an ability to have two of its four injectors turned off, and uses the Jeep tuning protocols
This kit here.
"https://www.fuelairspark.com/efi-sy...lf-tuning-engine-control-system-base-kit.html"
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Look into ford 302 ''gear reduction'' starter, they have a large offset up and may clear.
Stryker7314
Well-known member
I decided to first try a different starter on the T-5, going to try Powermaster 9503 XS Mini which is supposed to provide much more clearance, wish me luck.
What are folks using to plug the hole at the top of the aluminum intake manifold:
What are folks using to plug the hole at the top of the aluminum intake manifold:
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Stryker7314
Well-known member
Anyone using it or just plugging it?
I can't enlarge your picture good enough to be sure of the threads but if you want to plug it. Take it with you to check out fit in the theads (don't force it in if it won't at least start easy). It most likely will be a 1/4 or 3/8 inch US pipe thread NPT but there are also severial Metric pipe threads to. If it is so most auto parts stores have them in the Brass, steel, sometimes you can find also in Aluminum too use Anti Seize on the plugs whichever you use. The steel won't be a good choice in your aluminum intake because of electrolysis and corrosion. Or it maybe a straight Tubing type thread if it is then there are hex head set screws that can fit in it. Good luck
"...a 4bbl Throttle Body EFi with two injectors out of the four being used. Center biased, simultaneously injected...."
(just following post 85/8 - my just purchased fox waggy may have a '85 era as well = 2 jet CFI if searching for nother solution. But "not interested" eh? May B 4 'X'.
(just following post 85/8 - my just purchased fox waggy may have a '85 era as well = 2 jet CFI if searching for nother solution. But "not interested" eh? May B 4 'X'.
Also look at speedway motors 2897003-blk it looks like about 3/8'' more up room but the power master 9503 may be short enough..not sure exact gear depth and mount that you need for your bellhousing flywheel combo.
just used DB Ele's pmgr (mini) starter. Small, strong, good lookin, only $69 (not the usual well over 100) in my 250 due to header interfearence. Wrapped w/the insulation 4 good measure. Now I can get rid of the bulky, unsightly ign solinoid on inner fender'n make way for a fresh air tube. Ask for more if interested.
Stryker7314
Well-known member
UPDATE: My mechanic threw in the towel with the following things left to do among others I'm sure. Here are some pics of where the job is and notes from the mechanic with his elaborating notes in the parenthesis, second parenthesis are my notes if there's 2 sets. Anyone know someone in east North Carolina that can get this car running?
1.) Starter (OEM) didn't fit in the spacer plate (got a Powermaster 9503 on standby)
2.) Starter armature throw out is not
spaced correctly to the flywheel
teeth
3.) Linkages
4.) Fuel Line (needs relocation)
5.) Transmission tunnel (I have it spaced
but damn if it's not tight. May flex
with engine running)
6.) Radiator Lower Hose (not sure about acquiring this or a make one with elbow couplings and silicon or a stainless steel on that can be shaped)
7.) Pedal Assemblies (appears further
modifications will be necessary) (I ordered brake-clutch pedal set)
8.) Need Custom Driveshaft & Yolk
made - ones you have will not work
9.) Wiring in for reverse lights
(necessary for state inspection) (small adapter available)
10.) Exhaust has to be re-bent to fit
properly since engine was dropped
and it's too close to the Bellhousing (exhaust shop?)
11.) Modify for the speedometer cable (have the Modern Drivelines kit)
12.) Modification to install manual choke
cable (have the manual choke kit)
13.) Make a custom cold air intake
system w/filter (feel like this is nbd)
14.) Cutout for the clutch cylinder (?)
15.) Fabricate accelerator linkage (?)
16.) Everything is basically a Fitment
issue. Parts don't work or have to
be heavily modified to work
17.) Alternator wiring has to be
stretched to opposite side of engine
bay (nbd)
18.) V-Belts are also different the
factory as well - will be trial and
error to find which ones will fit (?)
1.) Starter (OEM) didn't fit in the spacer plate (got a Powermaster 9503 on standby)
2.) Starter armature throw out is not
spaced correctly to the flywheel
teeth
3.) Linkages
4.) Fuel Line (needs relocation)
5.) Transmission tunnel (I have it spaced
but damn if it's not tight. May flex
with engine running)
6.) Radiator Lower Hose (not sure about acquiring this or a make one with elbow couplings and silicon or a stainless steel on that can be shaped)
7.) Pedal Assemblies (appears further
modifications will be necessary) (I ordered brake-clutch pedal set)
8.) Need Custom Driveshaft & Yolk
made - ones you have will not work
9.) Wiring in for reverse lights
(necessary for state inspection) (small adapter available)
10.) Exhaust has to be re-bent to fit
properly since engine was dropped
and it's too close to the Bellhousing (exhaust shop?)
11.) Modify for the speedometer cable (have the Modern Drivelines kit)
12.) Modification to install manual choke
cable (have the manual choke kit)
13.) Make a custom cold air intake
system w/filter (feel like this is nbd)
14.) Cutout for the clutch cylinder (?)
15.) Fabricate accelerator linkage (?)
16.) Everything is basically a Fitment
issue. Parts don't work or have to
be heavily modified to work
17.) Alternator wiring has to be
stretched to opposite side of engine
bay (nbd)
18.) V-Belts are also different the
factory as well - will be trial and
error to find which ones will fit (?)
Attachments
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drill/tap out the oil passage to thread ina lill sucker headed allen screw in block oil passage. The shop will no to use the heavy-set thread lock tite.
Grind out the elongated looking oil passage o0OP, fer get it, keep loosing ur use of alu head...
Really, it just sounds as if U could benifit from a 2nd read-thru (w/highliter?) of 'the Handbook'. The rod bolts & oil/H2O passage are the only 3 really close attention details I believe but am less familiar w/YT rocker/alloy head needs...
"...water pump..."
GMB-125-xxx from Matt or Summitt (not sure the last few #s as I got the 250/4.1L - 1380 for me). U will already have the alloy/iron mix so a set up for the galvanic response (2 dissimilar metals). Ck into proper coolant to reduce this influence/effect. GM is red but lots reject that as troubesome. I'll use some Zarex brand ("IMC" or sompin).
Really, it just sounds as if U could benifit from a 2nd read-thru (w/highliter?) of 'the Handbook'. The rod bolts & oil/H2O passage are the only 3 really close attention details I believe but am less familiar w/YT rocker/alloy head needs...
"...water pump..."
GMB-125-xxx from Matt or Summitt (not sure the last few #s as I got the 250/4.1L - 1380 for me). U will already have the alloy/iron mix so a set up for the galvanic response (2 dissimilar metals). Ck into proper coolant to reduce this influence/effect. GM is red but lots reject that as troubesome. I'll use some Zarex brand ("IMC" or sompin).