rear engine seal
- Thread starter mluck
- Start date
Man, it really depends on what seal is in there now. If it's an OEM-type rope seal you basically have to have the engine out of the car and the crankshaft removed to change it. If it's been replaced with a more modern style neopreme seal that has been installed properly (ie the rope seal locator pin was removed before the neopreme seal was installed), then I've been able to get by with doing it in the car. Here's how:
1. Remove the oil pan (easier said than done on some cars, may require removal of the crossmember and even the anti-sway bar).
2. Remove the rear main bearing cap, it will contain half the seal (if you don't what type of seal you have, you are going to have to go this far just to tell, if you find out at this point that it's rope, I think you have to yank the engine).
3. The remaining half of the seal is between the crankshaft and the block just behind the rear main bearing (like in the cap). The trick is to create just enough of a gap to rotate that seal out of there. If it was installed as recommended (slightly off line with the bearing cap sealing surface) part of it will already be sticking out of the block.
4. Loosen all the other main bearing caps. The crankshaft should drop down about 1/16". You may have to pull down on it to create the small gap. If the rear upper seal half was not already rotated, use a small punch or screwdriver and lightly tap one end of it into it's groove, the other end should rotate out of the block. Grab the end that is sticking out with a pair of visegrips and pull it all the way out, remembering it is circular shaped.
Put the new one in by reversing the steps. It's best to place the ends of the seal out of alignment with the bearing sealing surfaces (not flush). Getting the new upper half in without damaging it is the most important part, but I've done this whole technique it 3 or 4 times successfully.
The reason you can't do the same with a rope seal is there is a sharp locator pin that holds it in place and keeps it from rotating. Put everything back together and you're done!
1. Remove the oil pan (easier said than done on some cars, may require removal of the crossmember and even the anti-sway bar).
2. Remove the rear main bearing cap, it will contain half the seal (if you don't what type of seal you have, you are going to have to go this far just to tell, if you find out at this point that it's rope, I think you have to yank the engine).
3. The remaining half of the seal is between the crankshaft and the block just behind the rear main bearing (like in the cap). The trick is to create just enough of a gap to rotate that seal out of there. If it was installed as recommended (slightly off line with the bearing cap sealing surface) part of it will already be sticking out of the block.
4. Loosen all the other main bearing caps. The crankshaft should drop down about 1/16". You may have to pull down on it to create the small gap. If the rear upper seal half was not already rotated, use a small punch or screwdriver and lightly tap one end of it into it's groove, the other end should rotate out of the block. Grab the end that is sticking out with a pair of visegrips and pull it all the way out, remembering it is circular shaped.
Put the new one in by reversing the steps. It's best to place the ends of the seal out of alignment with the bearing sealing surfaces (not flush). Getting the new upper half in without damaging it is the most important part, but I've done this whole technique it 3 or 4 times successfully.
The reason you can't do the same with a rope seal is there is a sharp locator pin that holds it in place and keeps it from rotating. Put everything back together and you're done!
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