philford
Well-known member
maybe you need an oilclot additive
..yes im kidding
All Small Six Rear main seal leak?
- Thread starter DoctorC
- Start date
This relates to all small sixes
..yes im kiddingThe shop manual states...8-38 paragraph 14. "The upper oil seal in the block cannot be replaced with the crankshaft installed."
Well... this sucks. :-(
HI wakjob, all I can say is that your Manual isn't correct on that statement. I and many many others have done it many times over years with both the rope and neoprene type seals as an example I did my first one like that in the mid 1960's. They can be installed with the engine still bolted in the chassis and without compleatly removing the crankshaft there is even a special tool made to remove and install the rope seals and the neoprene seal can also be very easy. Best of luck
2X^^^
Every mechanic hasa few work-a-rounds to a few operations.
A good mechanic can excel at diagnostics (rather than throw money at parts).
A great mechanic can do diagnostics on the net/thru a forum AND has a buncha wrkrounds that save on the "book rates".
Ur takin to the latter when U post to Mr. bubs (and some others here).
Every mechanic hasa few work-a-rounds to a few operations.
A good mechanic can excel at diagnostics (rather than throw money at parts).
A great mechanic can do diagnostics on the net/thru a forum AND has a buncha wrkrounds that save on the "book rates".
Ur takin to the latter when U post to Mr. bubs (and some others here).
It is a '74 Bronco with a 200 inline six. It has 110,000 original miles, and is still sporting the original paint job. I did a decent amount of work on it this winter (see here) that started as a rear main leak and clutch replacement. It of course snowballed once I pulled the engine. It now runs like a top.
caught up w/some back reading. A lill too late as U have engine back in. But on other side of core support (pass side) is a thru hole (not till '73 or4). After that point in time the snorkle U replaced hadan accordian hose run uptoa 'fresh air tube' (behind baTree). Mine is pre-'73/4 so I wanna cut that retangular hole in my core support. Can U trangulate its location so I can place it right'n proper? I have the grill off so will cut it from that side (B 4 replacing) 3 x 6 inch retangle w/rounded corners. So
If you do measure it - the 3 spots might be both corners of the squared off corner of the core support (C that 45* above it? where the core support has a corner cut on the 45*?) and where the CS hasa "C" or "U" channel meet it's top edge (a 90* lip has been bent in all the way across). That inner corner could B the 3rd point.
+ Measure from the 3 to the top right corner of the cut out;
+ Measure from the 3 to the bottom right corner;
AND
+ just the 2 sides of the cut out (short'n long).
I'll use a coin to trace the 4 corners (dime, Sriracha end cover, etc). I'd make it a lill small, mount up the fresh air tube w/2 screws, en-largen it a lill, paint, seam sealer, mount bat'tree & grill. Lotta work 4 U and from the wrong side as U can't get to that front side so easy.
No matter. I can find it from the back (take out Bat Tree) locate, punch holes at each corner/connect da dots...
If you do measure it - the 3 spots might be both corners of the squared off corner of the core support (C that 45* above it? where the core support has a corner cut on the 45*?) and where the CS hasa "C" or "U" channel meet it's top edge (a 90* lip has been bent in all the way across). That inner corner could B the 3rd point.
+ Measure from the 3 to the top right corner of the cut out;
+ Measure from the 3 to the bottom right corner;
AND
+ just the 2 sides of the cut out (short'n long).
I'll use a coin to trace the 4 corners (dime, Sriracha end cover, etc). I'd make it a lill small, mount up the fresh air tube w/2 screws, en-largen it a lill, paint, seam sealer, mount bat'tree & grill. Lotta work 4 U and from the wrong side as U can't get to that front side so easy.
No matter. I can find it from the back (take out Bat Tree) locate, punch holes at each corner/connect da dots...
Ok...got both rope and neoprene seals (haven't decided which one yet)... and the rear main tool kit from NAPA.
It has the corkscrew tool, clips, ect...
Someone told me to get some jelly like lube (Astrolube or K/Y) to help it go up and around the crank.
The instructions say to just soak it in some oil for a few minutes just before installation...
Any tips?
It has the corkscrew tool, clips, ect...
Someone told me to get some jelly like lube (Astrolube or K/Y) to help it go up and around the crank.
The instructions say to just soak it in some oil for a few minutes just before installation...
Any tips?
I also loosen the rest of the main caps a little so the crankshaft can drop down just a small amount at the rear main makes it easy to get seals in. If you have a manual transmission you will need to pull it so chrankshaft can move down some. If you have an auto trans you will just unbolt the torque converter and slide it back towards the transmission so the studs will clear the flex plate. Check to see if the flywheel or flex plate bolts are showing any signs of oil seepage. If you going to use the neoprene seal you need to remove the rope seal pin in the main cap and X2 also clock the seal as wsa111 stated above in his post. Best of luck
If you use the neoprene, I've read you need to be careful rolling it in so that you don't shave off some of it due to the sharp edge on the block. I originally planned on using an Permatex anaerobic sealer but I ended up following the steps wsa111 outlined on page one, so I stopped by a Toyota dealership and picked up a tube of FIPG. Just a dab of it on the ends of the neoprene seal, as well as a small amount on the block where the main cap bolts down. There's a good pic of where to place the sealant in a Chilton's manual.
Mine turned out great, without any leaks at all. I no longer have to put anything under my rig to catch extraneous drips. My experience with replacing a rear main seal totals up to exactly one….so perhaps I got lucky. The tips by wsa111 sure helped me.
As wallen7 mentions above, if you go with the neoprene seal, you will need to drive out the small pin in the bearing cap. And just as importantly, you’ll need to put a dab of sealant in the hole where the pin used to be.
RIGHT ON!!! CONGRATS MAN!
I'm going to stop by my local Toyota dealer and grab some of that sealer and give it a go following wsa111's steps also.
Wish me luck.
I HATE leaks so I was pretty thrilled when I put everything back in service, only to find my garage floor remains clean. I was in the shop today and took a couple of pics of the procedure outlined in my '74 Ford Service Manual for the 200 cid. I figured I would put them on here, since the pics for seal positioning and sealer placement was critical. You may already have these but let me know if you need more. And definitely....good luck!
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The FelPro neoprene seal that I used said the exact same thing. I'm assuming mine would have sealed fine without a dab of sealer on the ends. However, I went ahead and did it since wsa111 recommended it, and it appears he has plenty of experience in this arena. Perhaps others will chime in....
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