Rear sump 250 oil pan
- Thread starter 62Ranchero200
- Start date
62Ranchero200
Famous Member
Some progress:
Drain plug already welded in.
Still a lot to do - tip out (bulge) for oil pump, extending pickup, dipstick, and a lot of time-consuming welding.
@chad - as it turns out, oil pump bulge will not be that large, it should be done next and I will post photos. For inquiring minds, I am $255 into this so far.
Thanks
Bob the Builder
Drain plug already welded in.
Still a lot to do - tip out (bulge) for oil pump, extending pickup, dipstick, and a lot of time-consuming welding.
@chad - as it turns out, oil pump bulge will not be that large, it should be done next and I will post photos. For inquiring minds, I am $255 into this so far.
Thanks
Bob the Builder
62Ranchero200
Famous Member
More progress - bulge for oil pump is defined (though not completed) and dipstick is done.
Oil pump pickup still needs to be extended about 8” and lower passenger side of sump clearanced for starter.
Thanks
Bob the Builder
Oil pump pickup still needs to be extended about 8” and lower passenger side of sump clearanced for starter.
Thanks
Bob the Builder
Looks nice 
Whatever you do do not forget the path of the dipstick if you put a windage tray in...Because when you recover from the racket that your new install makes when you start it up...You realize that it is the dipstick hitting the crank and it has to come out to fix right.
Whatever you do do not forget the path of the dipstick if you put a windage tray in...Because when you recover from the racket that your new install makes when you start it up...You realize that it is the dipstick hitting the crank and it has to come out to fix right.
62Ranchero200
Famous Member
Getting close:
@drag-200stang, dipstick will not hit crankshaft.
Due to the scallop for the starter, the sump will have a bit less than four quarts capacity. I want the scallop to give enough clearance to change the starter with the oil pan on.
I wonder if anyone had ever offset a center link (used welded flat bar or something similar to displace a section of a center link, such as to clear an oil pan)?
Thanks
Bob the Builder
@drag-200stang, dipstick will not hit crankshaft.
Due to the scallop for the starter, the sump will have a bit less than four quarts capacity. I want the scallop to give enough clearance to change the starter with the oil pan on.
I wonder if anyone had ever offset a center link (used welded flat bar or something similar to displace a section of a center link, such as to clear an oil pan)?
Thanks
Bob the Builder
Due to the scallop for the starter, the sump will have a bit less than four quarts capacity. I want the scallop to give enough clearance to change the starter with the oil pan on.
Nice fabb'n keep goin'
... the water is already under the bridge are you using/consider an inexpensive V8 PMGR starter which is @ half size of OEM? . ( 250 uses standard SBF starter.) .. maybe next time ? 8)
.].
. 
. 
.
( BTW - 250 in early car: -Steering with 'Flipped center link interfered with OEM starter in the '61with 250 without mini-starter.
Later 'V8 (65) steering conversion has more oil pan and steering clearance. )
habe fun
Nice fabb'n keep goin'
... the water is already under the bridge are you using/consider an inexpensive V8 PMGR starter which is @ half size of OEM? . ( 250 uses standard SBF starter.) .. maybe next time ? 8)
.]. . . .( BTW - 250 in early car: -Steering with 'Flipped center link interfered with OEM starter in the '61with 250 without mini-starter.
Later 'V8 (65) steering conversion has more oil pan and steering clearance. )
habe fun
62Ranchero200
Famous Member
Fabrication complete, now to leak test, sand the welds a bit to smooth them, primer and paint. Then install and run with the extended pickup.
Thanks
Bob the Builder
Thanks
Bob the Builder
Nice job Bob did you also install some internal baffles to keep the oil around the pick up? 
62Ranchero200
Famous Member
bubba22349":3cuc6moi said:Nice job Bob did you also install some internal baffles to keep the oil around the pick up?
@bubba,
I haven’t added any baffles yet - I want to fit and test run it on the engine with the extended pickup to ensure there are no fitment or oil pressure issues, first.
Thanks
Bob
lavron
Well-known member
Not sure Bob what you have done none of your pictures show for me, but as a follow up if you have seen mine which really I guess doesn't make much difference probably.
A picture so no one has to go searching for them
I only have one little place that seeps that I need to address (with a little epoxy) around the front drain plug, the capacity of the pan is 8 quarts.
The pickup tube modification was not bad as the bottom of the pan is the same depth as the original it just needed to go back further so I cut it and used a piece of thin wall steel tubing to make it longer and added a tab to bolt it to a SBF V8 main bearing stud cap bolt that the machinist gave me.
I added baffles to keep the oil from sloshing back and forth too much in the "T" section.
Certainly, the little front sump could have been much smaller but I wanted to make as few cuts as possible because I am not a super welder by any means and used the epoxy on the pan to make sure it did not leak if I left any pinholes. The metal I used was scrap leftover pieces of framing from my shed walls, it is a thick, galvanized "C" channel (it is at least 18 gauge or thicker) it just happened to be the same width as the pan and slipped over it in the center section, I welded it slowly on the outside with the pan bolted to the block on the engine stand and did not get any warping, then I removed the pan and welded it again on the inside, it is a really tight fit around my steering rack and I have to be careful while installing the engine and have to take the motor mounts off the block so I can lower it and then slide it back because the front drain sits below the steering rack, I could have avoided that by moving the drain to the bottom but my car sits so low I wanted as little hanging on the bottom of the pan as possible where it might hang on something and get broken off dumping all my oil, I possibly could have not even had a drain plug up there but that would have meant leaving a quart or two of dirty oil in there when I do an oil change and thought I would like to be able to drain completely. I am sure part of the large oil capacity on the engine is oil trapped in places like the front sump and certainly, the rear wings add to it, as it is now nothing hangs below the front crossmember so hopefully I won't have to worry about scraping the pan on anything.
That picture is with the airbags completely aired out BTW and you can't drive it like that, but even at ride height the cross member is only about 4"-6" off of the ground.
Anyhow, good luck, it really was not that bad of modification and the first cut was the hardest for me because it meant I was truly committed.
See Ya,
Mike
A picture so no one has to go searching for them
I only have one little place that seeps that I need to address (with a little epoxy) around the front drain plug, the capacity of the pan is 8 quarts.
The pickup tube modification was not bad as the bottom of the pan is the same depth as the original it just needed to go back further so I cut it and used a piece of thin wall steel tubing to make it longer and added a tab to bolt it to a SBF V8 main bearing stud cap bolt that the machinist gave me.
I added baffles to keep the oil from sloshing back and forth too much in the "T" section.
Certainly, the little front sump could have been much smaller but I wanted to make as few cuts as possible because I am not a super welder by any means and used the epoxy on the pan to make sure it did not leak if I left any pinholes. The metal I used was scrap leftover pieces of framing from my shed walls, it is a thick, galvanized "C" channel (it is at least 18 gauge or thicker) it just happened to be the same width as the pan and slipped over it in the center section, I welded it slowly on the outside with the pan bolted to the block on the engine stand and did not get any warping, then I removed the pan and welded it again on the inside, it is a really tight fit around my steering rack and I have to be careful while installing the engine and have to take the motor mounts off the block so I can lower it and then slide it back because the front drain sits below the steering rack, I could have avoided that by moving the drain to the bottom but my car sits so low I wanted as little hanging on the bottom of the pan as possible where it might hang on something and get broken off dumping all my oil, I possibly could have not even had a drain plug up there but that would have meant leaving a quart or two of dirty oil in there when I do an oil change and thought I would like to be able to drain completely. I am sure part of the large oil capacity on the engine is oil trapped in places like the front sump and certainly, the rear wings add to it, as it is now nothing hangs below the front crossmember so hopefully I won't have to worry about scraping the pan on anything.
That picture is with the airbags completely aired out BTW and you can't drive it like that, but even at ride height the cross member is only about 4"-6" off of the ground.
Anyhow, good luck, it really was not that bad of modification and the first cut was the hardest for me because it meant I was truly committed.
See Ya,
Mike
Hi Mike - FWIW there have been some dyno run made on (I believe) Engine Masters indicating that extra oil capacity - if it raises the oil level in the pan over stock - result in the oil being whipped by the crank into a froth which reduces HP. Just an FYI in case it may help. Gale Banks also found the same to be true with truck differential covers promoting extra oil capacity - it actually reduces lubricity and oil dispersion.
lavron
Well-known member
My oil levels are the same as stock, most of the extra capacity is in the wings, oil is level or down below that high portion of the pan which basically in the same position as the higher part of a stock pan, it doesn't take much to see where the extra 3 quarts are.
Here is my CAD design showing the portions that had to clear the crossmember and steering rack.
If you look back at the final pan you can see I did not cut the little sump in front as shallow as I could of but left it full depth and rear wing portion is the same depth as the original pan, I could have come straight forward with the shallow part but would have had to go back and add a mini sump for the oil pump body to sit in so to avoid doing more welding I just left front portion complete, I guess it was just how I chose to do it and I am sure there are a lot of different ways to accomplish a rear sump 250 pan more elegantly than I did
See Ya,
Mike
62Ranchero200
Famous Member
62Ranchero200
Famous Member
lavron
Well-known member
All my pictures are hosted off-site that is why they show, the update did not affect links I would say, that is my guess anyway.
See Ya,
Mike
Similar threads
All Small Six
Will any of the AU 250 rear sump pan fit US 250?
