Rebuild Questions

ozconv

Well-known member
I now have my 200 back from the machine shop and all the new parts so I am going to start reassembly but have a few questions:

1. The machinist coated the cylinders with automatic transmission fluid to prevent rusting and the the cam from CI had protective tape on the cam journals that has left a little residue on the cam journals. Any recommendations for cleaning the crank/cam journals and cylinder bores? I have read to use soapy water, rinse with clean water, and then dry with a lint free cloth. Should I use something stronger like acetone or gaseline before using plastigage and then re-lubricating before assembly?

2. My 200 is a 67 with the rope seal for the rear main seal. The crank is not smooth and shiny where the seal would contact but either has residue or some other kind of coating that appears to have spiral grooves in it. Is this normal or does my crank need to be refinished. Is this normal? The rest of the crank was checked out and dynamically balanced at the machine shop.

3. FSM shows the oil ring expander joint opposite of the front of the piston with the oil ring gaps set 1" either side and the compression ring gaps 30 degrees either side of the front of the piston. Should I follow this orientation or something else as I have heard to stagger the rings 90 degrees?

Thanks in advance for any advice,

Jason
 
ozconv":2cnjtuho said:
I now have my 200 back from the machine shop and all the new parts so I am going to start reassembly but have a few questions:

1. The machinist coated the cylinders with automatic transmission fluid to prevent rusting and the the cam from CI had protective tape on the cam journals that has left a little residue on the cam journals. Any recommendations for cleaning the crank/cam journals and cylinder bores? I have read to use soapy water, rinse with clean water, and then dry with a lint free cloth. Should I use something stronger like acetone or gaseline before using plastigage and then re-lubricating before assembly?

for the cylinders, just give them a good scrubbing with warm water and soap, dawn dish washing liquid will do fine. you want the cylinder walls clean to the point where you can run a white cloth through the cylinders and have them come out clean. then recoat them with ATF. as for the cam, use a mild parts washing solvent and a plastic parts cleaning brush. then use a high quality cam lube on the lobes and journals before installing the cam. do not use acetone or gasoline for cleaning parts. and only use the plastigage on the crank journals to check bearing clearances.

2. My 200 is a 67 with the rope seal for the rear main seal. The crank is not smooth and shiny where the seal would contact but either has residue or some other kind of coating that appears to have spiral grooves in it. Is this normal or does my crank need to be refinished. Is this normal? The rest of the crank was checked out and dynamically balanced at the machine shop.

this is normal. the grooves are there to encourage oil to flow back to the pan rather than out the engine.

3. FSM shows the oil ring expander joint opposite of the front of the piston with the oil ring gaps set 1" either side and the compression ring gaps 30 degrees either side of the front of the piston. Should I follow this orientation or something else as I have heard to stagger the rings 90 degrees?

when i install rings i usually set the ring gaps 180 degrees apart, all of them, and i also set the ring gaps perpendicular to the piston pins. remember that most pistons are cam ground, which mean they are essentially slightly oval shaped when cold with the pin side being the narrowest part. that way when the pistons expand as they get hot, they expand along the piston pin line.
 
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