REbuilding a Carter YFA Carb...

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Last night I pulled the carb from the Maverick. It’s a Carter, model YFA carburetor on a 200 I-6. The first thing I noticed while removing the carb is the metal choke heat tube that connects to the manifold is broken just above the manifold. This tube is covered with a fiberglass mesh kind of sock, so it was hard to tell it was broken until I disconnected it from the automatic choke. So my first question is, does anybody know what the part number is for the choke heat tube? Is that a part I can still order? Took it to the local auto parts, the guy there said it looks like standard brake line material, even the connection at the carb, could this be true? And, I’m really nervous about how to remove the broken “stubâ€￾ from the manifold without really screwing something up. How is this tube connected to the manifold (it’s pretty rusty so I’m not sure from looking at it)? Can I drill it out without causing problems?

Now that I have the carb off the car, I’ve taken a close look at the carb kit and all the small parts & gaskets. I'm a little freaked out and wondering if I can really do this. The kit came with an “exploded viewâ€￾ of the carburetor, listing what the parts are, but it really doesn’t have “how to, step-by-stepâ€￾ instructions on how to tackle this. Does anyone have step-by-step instructions on how to rebuild this carburetor?

Thanks for any help you can offer...
Art
 
Carburetor kits usually have the part numbers listed in the order of assembly/disassembly. Not all the parts in a kit will be used since they are made to cover multiple years and variations. If you don't have a compressor, a can of compressed air from the computer supply store will help blow out the passages.

The choke tube is normally just pressed into the manifold and with a little twisting can be pulled out. Some spray lube to soak it first will help. Most parts stores carry an aluminum tube replacement. I've seen it on the rack in the "Help" parts section for just a couple of bucks.
 
Thanks for the tips. I already sprayed some liquid wrench on the tube, but have not attempted to remove it yet (it looks pretty seized up, I'm going to spray it down a few times before my attempt).

At the local auto parts store, the guy showed me some of those generic kits with the aluminum thermal choke tube, but he said that it looked like the connection to the carb was different, and he didn't suggest going that route. Perhaps I'll have to go to a larger "chain" auto parts store and see for myself what they have (hopefully they will have it in stock to physically look at). Otherwise, I was thinking of having the local guy sell me some brake line, but I don't have a bender, and I'm sure it will crimp if I try to bend a 90 degree angle. Not sure if the local auto parts store would bend it for me or not....
 
Just use your old carb-end fitting on the new pipe.
Those kits (Motormite/Help)are great, they come with a fitting that goes into the exhaust manifold. And the piping is a little softer than brake line so it's easy to shape.
There are places here that loan tools for free, maybe in your area too.
You might need a flaring tool.
 
I used a dremel tool/blade to cut a "line" from the end to the "bump out" part that goes into the manifold and squished the tip to make it fit,,tube ran me approx 10 bucks and was a "standard part",,,also found that the molding/shape didn't match up just right,,,so I had to twist it a bit
 
i would not be worried about messing up your carb, just take your time, i to have a 200 I6 maverick with a carter yf carb...and my heat tube just broke off yesterday...small world ehh. i am kind of a gung ho kinda person and my mechanic told me if i broke the carb you can find a rebuilt one for like 75 bux...so i just went at it. i rebuilt the carb in 2 hours(took my sweet old time...could be done in 45 minutes) just take your time with it, you'll see the parts that need to be replaced as you go through the carb. you should have some extra gaskets and parts for different model carter carbs aswell...keep in mind that i am an 18 year old who had never done anything like ths b4...just make sure you dont lose any parts...
 
I have not yet done the carb rebuild, still getting up the nerve to dive in. I do have some info on the thermal choke control tube however. The guy at the auto parts store told that brake line would work, it even has the same fitting on the end to connect to the carb. The Murray's auto parts store has a whole bunch of different sizes of brake line on display, in-between $4 to $10 for a long piece. I didn't have my old control tube with me to pick the correct size, but that's where I'll more than likely buy the material. They had a bender tool for $3 that I already picked up, so I should be able to match the old parts shape pretty closely. With the warmer weather just around the corner, I need to jump on this project so I can fire up the car and enjoy driving it around!

Again, if anybody knows where I can find "step-by-step" instructions on the carb rebuild, I would sure feel more confident to get started.

Thanks!
Art
 
no luck on a step by step, but for a quick fix for mine, today we took a small iece of metal tubing that fit snuggly over each end of the tube, so the heat tube is good for now, but i'll look into the brake line and bender like you said...good find :party:
 
Yep, I looked at the heater tube closely last night, and sure enough, the break line material will work (even the fitting on the end is correct). I played with the bender tool I bought and I don't foresee any problems in making the bends and pretty closely matching the original. I did notice the braided material that covers the tube has frayed on the one end. The "good" end looks like it's been dipped in some kind of compound, and I'm not sure what I can use that will withstand the heat. I'll have to put the thinking cap on for that one. Anyway, when you are ready to replace that thermal choke control tube, just take it off and walk into the auto parts store to make sure and get the right size with the correct threaded end.

Art
 
That sounds like a good idea. I was wondering if some kind of compound (like JB Weld for example) would be good to put on it and then let it dry. I believe JB Weld would with stand the heat. Perhaps there is another kind of compound that would be better suited?
 
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