Rebuilding Carb

[Slipknotcc]

Hello all,

I just recently got my 65 Stang up and running again after 9 months, but she kept fouling out spark plugs. So, I take her to a local mechanic who says that the spark plugs are fouling because my fuel mixture is to rich. Now I have never heard of that before, can anyone give me some insight on that? Well he wanted to sell me a new carb for $250+. First I was thinking that I can just turn the screw on the carb that effects the fuel mixture, but he said it was too far gone and that I needed a new one. My question is whether or not i should first try to rebuild my current carb in hopes of fixing the problem. And if so how much skill is required in doing so? Any advice would be much appreciated.

Thank You,
~Cory

P.S. - I have a 200 with an Autolite 1100, I have to check to make sure but I believe that is what is on there.

 

[wallaka]

I'd rebuild it for sure. It's not too hard as long as you pay attention, and the 1100 is one of the simplest carbs that there is. A rebuild kit is ~15 bucks or so...what have you go to lose?

You'll need good screwdrivers (it is critical to not strip the heads out of the screws), and a can of carb cleaner. Lay everything out in the order it comes off the carb, and you should be good.

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy Cory:

Verify that the throttle shaft is tight in it's pivot hole on both sides of the carb body. And to repeat Wallaka, make sure that all screws are not stripped. If those two issues are acceptible, you have a good rebuildable core. Is the vehicle an auto or manual trans? A well done DIY rebuild beats a remanufactured rebuild everytime.

If your current carb is so rich that it is fouling spark plugs it is likely several circuits contributing to the problem- The choke would be my first suspect.

How many miles on the engine? How longs since the valve guide seals have been replaced? Is it using oil?

Good luck.

Adios, David

 

[Slipknotcc]

Oh, I'm sorry I should have mentioned those things. I have an AT trans, I don't know exactly how many miles ago the engine was rebuilt, but my mechanic did say the engine looked fairly new on the inside, as for the valve guide seals I really don't know how long it has been, I've only owned the car for a little over 2 years and have not done the seals myself, as for the previous owner I do not know. And finally, yes it does use/burn some oil, not a lot but some. I will be able to check out the carb a little better on Thursday because I'm having some maintenance done on the engine. Thank you all for the replies, I hope to get a little more insight into what I'm dealing with here as this will be my first carb rebuild.

Thank You,
~Cory

 

[fordconvert]

Use the search function at the top of the page and limit your search to this section. "rebuilding 1100" should give you plenty of hits. The topic comes up fairly often so you should be able to pick up several tips. After sorting through all the posts if you still have specific questions Im sure we will be able to help.

The carb kits I have got from Napa have had an exploded view that helps a bit to understand what you are in for. Are you sure you have an 1100? I dont remember if you told us that or if we just guessed. Here is a pic of an 1100 I did for another thread. If this is what you have and you have a Napa around the Napa/Echlin kit is #2-5579

 

[ludwig]

Where are you located? If you live in a warm area, you might not even need the choke. Just make sure it is all the way off if you want to try running it like that for a while to test. A rebuild is not all that hard. Just follow the instructions carefully.

 

[fordconvert]

Hey Cory, what part of the world you in? Maybe you are close to another memeber that would be able to stop by and give you his/her opinion.

 

[Slipknotcc]

Ok, well I got the car back today from the mechanic, and it turns out I have a Holley 1940 on the engine, I know I know, I should have known that before posting. So I ordered the rebuild kit and it should be here in 2 days. Now is this carb more complicated than the Autolite 1100? If so, and advice while rebuilding?

Thank You,
~Cory

 

[fmartin_gila]

Those Holly 19-- series are a very easy carb to do. Before you start to redo it though, check if the throttle shaft is a good fit in the body. If it is decent, go ahead with it, if it has any slop, you are wasting your time and kit. If you do have some slop in the fit of the shaft, just find a "carb rebuilder" in the yellow pages. Should be about $150 for that (exchange).

If you do rebuild it yourself, just pay close attention to the settings. When you do the float drop setting, I would suggest going a little (1/64-1/32) short of the called for setting, as they do have a tendency to cock over slightly and stick open, thereby flooding the engine.

Fred

 

[Slipknotcc]

Ok, so I checked out the throttle shaft like fmartin_gila said and mine has some slop in it, so I decided to get a new 1940 from a place near home for a good price. Now should I keep the old Holley for spare parts or turn it in for the $35 core charge? A friend of mine said that the rest of the carb looks good, so I'm asking the pro's for their opinions.

Thanks,
~Cory

 

[addo]

Always keep the old carb; it may be a good way to compare differences between what was removed, and what's been fitted.

Throttle shafts are easily bushed. Can't get a kit to do this operation?

 

[woodbutcher]

Somewhere in the"Hardcore tech"section is a great post by one of us on a carb refurbish done at home.I believe that part numbers are also given.(edit)Found it.Posted by"simon".Page 2 in hardcore inline tech.
Title of thread"Some carb mods------application for the hardcore tech forum"Hope this helps.(Another edit)Mods, Would the above mentioned thread qualify for a "stickie"designation?
Leo