Rebuiling Motor

6

65BLKonBLK

New member
1st time poster but let me say this is an awesome site with a lot of great info to be shared with people like myself.

I have a 65 mustang that I bought for my daughters 16th birthday. She could of been like her friends it got something a little newer, but she didn't. (Man shes got great taste). Since owning the car I've done a number of upgrades and repairs. Power discs brakes on the front, rear brake job,starter, new leaf springs, a 1 bb. carb. from Pony, resealing the windshield and a couple of other minor things.

Well now I need to rebuild the motor in it. The number 6 cyl. has only 45 pounds of compression and my mechanic said it was most likely the rings in that cyl.

I like everyone else on this site is looking for more horsepower and performance. WHAT CAN I DO TO GET IT??

This car is daily driver to school and back, plus when I get the chance to drive it on the open road. If you guys could give me ideas on what needs to put in the car it would help out a lot.

This is what I'm thinking right now: cam, distributor, 2bb. adapter and carb, pistons, rings, timing chain, valve job, plugs and wires and anything else you can add. How much more hp should I expect??

What I need is info on what kind of cam, timing chain etc. etc. and where to get these parts. Should I have the block bored out more if it can take it or sleeved it out back closer to stock.

If anyone is in the Houston area I would love to come by see your set up and take notes on what you have.

By the way the car has ac, power steering and is an automatic if this helps.

Thanks
 
If you have one cly that low you may be impressed how much more power you would get with a fresh 'stock' motor. The only place the stock motor really lacks is at higher speeds like freeway ramps and high speed passing other than that they get you around town just fine.

As far as I know Classic Inlines (which you can get to by clicking ford six shop at the bottom of this page) is the closest thing to one stop shopping for the 200's and the only place for some of the 'performance' parts. Many of the engine parts are still available from the typical engine parts suppliers. Beware that many online type of vendors may say they have parts instock but dont. I was going to go with a comp cam and found several vendors that lead me to believe they had them in stock and found that none of them had one and its not even a stock item for comp. Comp builds them to order and depending on who orders one and if the have the blank in stock how long it takes, 2-6 weeks is what most people told me. That was just one example I ran into looking for parts for mine.

As far as bore size I dont think you gain much (if anything) by going larger than stock. The reason for larger bore is usually to clean up worn bores. You may want to start searching for another motor to rebuild now so you can keep the car on the road durning this process and give you more options if you run into bad or worn parts. I pulled my 66 motor apart and found it had 60 over pistons in it already so I went looking for another blocks. I was told that 80 overs do exisit but I have also heard that people have broke through the block at 50 over. I bought 3 other complete motors in a 2 week period. Paid $75 for one, $100 for another , and $125 w/C4 for the last one. The best one of the bunch had 30 overs in it but had got wet so I dont know if it will clean up or not. You will also have a chance of finding a better head and other misc parts that could be handy to have or even sell off to give you more cash for your car.

Have you read about the EFI options in the EFI section? I dont know what your skill level or interest is but it sounds like you have done other things to make it drive and handle like a modern car. An EFI system should give you better performance than the stock 1bbl but except for maybe holley there is not a 'bolt on' system so it will take some time and learning to get it working. Play with the search function and do some reading here, there have been several threads and a few people that have got systems working.
 
You didn't mention if the car has been converted to HEI or if it's the old Load-O-Matic distributor. Going to HEI is the single best upgrade to the older engines in my opinion. I'm just finishing up a swap in my '64 Falcon from the original 170 to a fresh remanufactured late '70's 200 and I have the D.U.I. distributor and Live Wires plug wires from FSP. It really makes a HUGE difference in power, and I'm guessing the gas milage will go up, and I'll never have to worry about the points needing changed or adjusted. The whole Davis Unified Ignition kit will run about $500.00 including the shipping cost. It's not cheap, but the 'bang for the buck' seems to be worth the splurge.
 
Here's a thought. I bought an 85 f150 from a junk yard the summer of 06'. The motor according to the vin is an 302 5.0 EFI. What kind of changes would be needed to convert to a 302 in the 65 Mustang?
 
65BLKonBLK":32dsvbat said:
Here's a thought. I bought an 85 f150 from a junk yard the summer of 06'. The motor according to the vin is an 302 5.0 EFI. What kind of changes would be needed to convert to a 302 in the 65 Mustang?
Click to expand...

Not that many since the 289, which was originally offered in a 65 mustang, and the 302 belong to the same group of engines and I think that they have the same size. But that may be only true for the old pre 70something 302s (don´t know it for sure). You´d have enough space under your hood to implant it but you need some selfmade engine holders and you´ll have to change the v8 required stuff like transmission, brakes, rear axle, suspension .... (someone else might have the full list cause I can´t remember all the parts right now).
Implanting a v8 instead of a 6 cylinder is a lot of work, but I think implanting the engine isn´t th problem. It´s the stuff around that which ha to be changed that makes the most of the work.


regards, ludwig
 
thanks for the info. I'm going run this by my machinist and mechanic who does a little road racing in these cars.

G.
 
65......

Back when I had more time than $$$$, I pulled apart my truck. The rings on the Six were broken into little segments of like 1/2 inch long each. It consumed oil like...

I went shopping here and there, found bearings and gaskets on eBay for like $10 each. Did my own paint job, new headliner, pounded out one fender, glass gaskets, had shop bore the engine for 60 o/s plus much more and all for under $1000.

It isn't as expensive as you amy think if you have the time, and ability.


Wm.
 
8) since you are rebuilding the engine anyway, check with www.classicinlines.com for parts. regarding cam selection pick one that is designed to work in the 1000-4500 rpm range since this is a street engine. while you are there, and since you have the 200 most likely, pick up a double roller timing chain as well. for pistons, and rings mike has those as well. pick up a set of flattop pistons after your machinist has determined what size piston you need.

as to the cylinder head, i recommend finding a late model 200/250 head and having it milled .050, and use a composite head gasket. this will bump the compression a bit, but not too much as to get you in trouble with detonation on regular gas.

mike also has a couple of nice sets of headers for your six.

as to the fuel system, i recommend going with a direct mount style 2bbl cfi unit from an early 80's 3.8 V6 or 302 V8, and use a megasquirt fuel controller to run it. another option would be to use the offenhauser 3x1bbl carb setup, with 3 tempo 1bbl efi throttle bodies again with the megasquirt controller.

for ignition use a duraspark distributor, or get a dui distributor again from mike at classicinlines.

with a 2" to 2 1/4" dual exhaust, this combination should be good for about 140-150hp, and that will make that little mustang a fun vehicle to drive.
 
rbohm,

Thanks for the info. I looked at the Classic Inline, Mike has got just about everything I need. I am going to go with the 6cyl. rebuild with a cam, flat top pistons, dual exhaust and a few other things.

Question though, when you saydirect mount style 2bb are you saying replacing the intake or just getting a 2 bbl convertor for my stock 1 bbl intake? Also I have no idea what a mega squirt fuel controller is.

Keep in my this is my daughters car. It needs to very dependable to get to and from school. I get to drive on weekends and to gas station when needed.

Thanks
 
A degree of modification to the stock (integrated) manifold, is what's meant here. The three issues to monitor when modifying to accept another carb are clearance, heat soak and throttle linkage operation.

Cheers, Adam.
 
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