rocklord":309ue38c said:
The only reason CobraSix doesn't recommend the DUI ignition is the cost compared to just going to a DS2 ignition
Exactly. the DUI is a nice set up, but for a mildly built engine, the gains are likely minimal compared to a DS2 set up. You can do a complete DS2 conversion, without anything fancy, for about $125, if you go with new parts. If you go on ebay or junkyards, you may be able to save $25 on the distributer. I'm a bang for the buck kind of guy. Both improved mileage, but also because I put a 40kV coil in at the same time. The combination of better ignition and hotter coil allowed me to open up the plug gap from .035" to .055" which will improve flame front and propogation = more efficient burn resulting in better power and mileage.
By all means, go 5 lug as it opens up lots of options. But just get a 8" rear end with 5 lug from a 65-66 mustang. Easy swap. Plus, the drums are the 8" rear are HUGE compared to the tiny things on the 7.25" rear that is in your mustang now. I wouldn't do a 4 lug to 5 lug conversion on a 7.25" rear end. even a mildly built 200 will eat that rear end up quickly once it gets close to 100HP. Those kits for rear disc brakes are for 8" rear ends. Rocklord gave you some good info on the swaps. Best bet is to keep an eye out here, area mustang forums, places like
www.vintage-mustang.com, and craigslist. Look for someone parting out a 65-66 mustang. I was able to score an entire front end, steering, and rear end for $125 and a 3 hour round trip. I got everything, spindle to spindle, all steering parts, and complete drum to drum on the rear end. Took some patience to find though. If you go with v-8 front spindles, I can't remember if it's required, but I'd recommend going with a v-8 steering set up. The pitman, idler, drag link, and tie rods are different. I know some people mate tie rods to match. I personally don't know much about that set up as I did a complete v-8 front end swap.
For cams, it is sort of personal taste. I don't like big lopey sounding engines. For me, I'd stick in the 260-270 range for cams. Though, cam selection is not a strong suit of mine. I do love my Comp Cam 260H, but that was before Classic Inlines was around. I'd go with one of their grinds now if I was going to replace my cam. The biggest benefit from even a mild cam, is the increased valve lift. Going from something like .35" of lift to .45" of lift with longer duration allows more air and fuel to get crammed in the cylinder = more fun!
If you don't want to do the cam, consider 1.6:1 ratio rockers that Classic Inlines has. I call them a "top end cam job". They will increase lift as well, even on a stock cam. While replacing a cam is relatively easy with the engine out, you can replace the rockers in 30 minutes maybe, while the engine is in the car. You do have to be careful when you combine the two though as you may end up with some valve interference issues with the piston, but that depends on some other factors like block decking and head milling and gasket thickness. The cam is generally cheaper to buy, but more involved to swap out. I've never done one in a car, but others have on the 200. It's a massively long cam, which is why you have to remove the radiator if you do it in the car. Honestly, the best way to do it is to pull the engine. So, if you don't have access to a cherry picker (or chain hoist and strong garage or tree limb) and an engine stand, the high ratio rockers may end up cheaper.
As you'll find out...cost of upgrades is highly variable. For example, I've done two T5 swaps, and maybe spent $500 total. Some spend more. I scored that V-8 steering, brakes, and rear end for $125. The drag link alone is $125 new. But, I was able to leave my car in the garage for months on end. Also, since I knew what my end goal was, I would look 6-12 months in advance of actually planning to do the work. That's how I found deals.
However, I did splurge on the brakes. I did go with an SSBC kit for v-8 5 lug front end. Not the cheapest, but the parts are standard so I can actually go to autozone and pick up rotors and pads for a 65 mustang. Also, by the time I got to my brakes, I actually had 3 different set ups in my garage and decided against them.
BTW, fill out your info. You never know if someone here is close and may have parts available. I for one, have a complete 65 mustang GT disc brake set up sitting in my garage. Bearings are frozen, and it's basically worthless except for the spindle and backing plate. But I'm too lazy to try to ship something that heavy....
But thanks for the suggestion man.
