A
Anonymous
Guest
Well, it's insane, i know, but I've done it on a few ocassions where i wanted to see if i could blow it up. i got this engine from a friend who had it in his 70 mustang coupe, and i did a 200 - 250 swap in my 68 mustang coupe. boy did it help tremendously to finally hear even the slightest tire peel outs. i'm not made fun of anymore because i can't peel out in a mustang my stang has a 3-speed auto tranny (C4) with a 2.83 rearend axle ratio. it takes off like it's scared to get a nose bleed, but i've actually had it up to about 115 on a straight stretch in highway in my hometown.
the reason that i'm telling you all this, is because i don't know if anyone hear has had the same luck with an old 250 motor. i'm always reading that someone is having trouble in the mid-range revs and cannot get it to rev high, but I've had this enigne since 1999 and it's been kinda fun driving with it. my car can hang off the line with only small 4-bangers like honda crx, etc, but i think he even had a quicker rearend gear than me, so my torque numbers aren't for nothing. i beat him by 6 car-lengths on the highway at about a 1/3 mile distance. the top end has an issue though...and i just don't want to cut off my lead foot just yet, so here's what i need help with. once i reach speeds of 100mph or more, the car starts to pulseate violently and it sounds like the engine is going to blow itself to hell and back. but i don't understand it because i can rev the engine in excess of 6500rpms in 1st and 2nd gear, but it only goes to about 4500rpms in 3rd before i hit 105mph. i would naturally think that it has something to do with the way each gear in the tranny is set apart from eachother, ratio-wise, but i'm still not sure. i don't know a lot about transmissions, but i do know that my 250 seems to not be able to blow up. it seems bullet-proof, (thanks to ford's 7 main bearing design) i just need to find out what is causing these violent pulsations through the car and how i can stop them from happening, without cutting off my foot just to let you know, my rearend is the small 7.5 inch that came with the 200 and it clunks into action when i have to go from drive to reverse and vice versa, so i know it's a little loose at the U-joint, and it slightly wiggles too. could this be the whole thing? or part of it? those little axles aren't meant to do the speeds that i've driven at
on a different note: my dad and i are talking about cuting off the intake log and fabricating a custom aluminum tube-type manifold to mount three 1bbl's or three 2bbl's. now my other question is: which setup would be better for low-end torque and which for high-end pull and what kind of setup would be recommended for short squirts of speed around town? my car can't seem to get outta its own way when i'm in the city, but it's great in the mid-range like the on-ramp...LOL
any and all help is greatly appreciated.
thanks
the reason that i'm telling you all this, is because i don't know if anyone hear has had the same luck with an old 250 motor. i'm always reading that someone is having trouble in the mid-range revs and cannot get it to rev high, but I've had this enigne since 1999 and it's been kinda fun driving with it. my car can hang off the line with only small 4-bangers like honda crx, etc, but i think he even had a quicker rearend gear than me, so my torque numbers aren't for nothing. i beat him by 6 car-lengths on the highway at about a 1/3 mile distance. the top end has an issue though...and i just don't want to cut off my lead foot just yet, so here's what i need help with. once i reach speeds of 100mph or more, the car starts to pulseate violently and it sounds like the engine is going to blow itself to hell and back. but i don't understand it because i can rev the engine in excess of 6500rpms in 1st and 2nd gear, but it only goes to about 4500rpms in 3rd before i hit 105mph. i would naturally think that it has something to do with the way each gear in the tranny is set apart from eachother, ratio-wise, but i'm still not sure. i don't know a lot about transmissions, but i do know that my 250 seems to not be able to blow up. it seems bullet-proof, (thanks to ford's 7 main bearing design) i just need to find out what is causing these violent pulsations through the car and how i can stop them from happening, without cutting off my foot just to let you know, my rearend is the small 7.5 inch that came with the 200 and it clunks into action when i have to go from drive to reverse and vice versa, so i know it's a little loose at the U-joint, and it slightly wiggles too. could this be the whole thing? or part of it? those little axles aren't meant to do the speeds that i've driven at
on a different note: my dad and i are talking about cuting off the intake log and fabricating a custom aluminum tube-type manifold to mount three 1bbl's or three 2bbl's. now my other question is: which setup would be better for low-end torque and which for high-end pull and what kind of setup would be recommended for short squirts of speed around town? my car can't seem to get outta its own way when i'm in the city, but it's great in the mid-range like the on-ramp...LOL
any and all help is greatly appreciated.
thanks