Ring and valve job
- Thread starter mannella
- Start date
early ford fan
Well-known member
does it have a pcv valve?
8) that vapor is blow by, most likely because the rings have not fully seated yet. did you use standard cast iron rings, moly faced rings, or chrome faced rings? if cast iron or moly faced rings, it will take a couple hundred miles to clear up. if chrome rings were used it could take 10 times that for them to seat.
Did you put on the PVC yet? Is much better for the engine keeps it cleaner inside instead of sucking a bunch of dirt in it.
Easy job to do with very minor changes. Yes the road draft tube gets either taken off and plug up the hole in the block (like an oil galley or freeze plug. Or you can weld a plate over the end and leave it on if you want to keep the stock look. Air cleaner is ok to keep you can just drill hole in bottom and put on an angle fitting. This to hook up a hose to oil breather cap you just remove your cap substitute for one with hose fitting or you could use another angle fitting as on the air cleaner this is a more closed system as the factory did on later cars. You can also omit drilling the hole and the hose to air cleaner and keep using the breather you already have if you want a more hidden system. You will need to either find a plate for under the carb to hook up the PVC valve or tap into intake for a vacuum source. If you take your time will have a clean later stock look or with a bit extra work can be totally hidden.
You need a valve cover with a hole in then back of it to install the actual pcv valve in. You could easily drill a hole if you wanted to with a step bit. The valve is where the vacuum line hooks. The line to the air cleaner from the fill cap was an emissions thing to keep some vapors from getting into the air. I would not bother with this step, just keep the same cap you have now. Yes you will likely need to make carb adjustments to make up for the vacuum 'leak' caused by the valve. Its worth the trouble IMHO. Especially if you drive this thing. Engines without a PCV dont stay very clean and you always have the smell and mess.
PCV valve goes in the back hole and has a vacuum line that usually connects to a spacer block between the carb and intake. The front hole is fine as is with your existing cap/breather. No need to run a line to the air cleaner. I think the line to the air cleaner started out as a CA emissions thing and later became a 50 state thing.
If you have the valve cover with extra hole great the factory added baffling and works even better than drilling a hole. Just get the new rubber grommet for the PCV valve to fit in length of hose to carb plate if you have one or hook it up to the intake manifold if its already drilled and taped for a vacuum fitting you just add a T fitting and hose fitting and re hook up existing fitting to outherside of T, and your good to go. As I said before and fordconvert, you don't have to do anything to else to the air cleaner or breather if you don't want too. I always run a PCV valve on every engine I think this was one great addition that also made the engines last longer. If you worked as a mech. on some of the old engines before PVC valves the amount of crude that ended up inside an engine is hard to believe unless you have seen it. And as fordconvert said about the smell being gone I forgot about that cause it been so long ago but thats also true and it would be worth doing just for that alone. Good Luck
Sounds good and I'm going to do it, just one question--I have to remove the draft tube would it not make sense to adapt the pcv at that point then the clean air would be traveling all the way down to the crank case and to put an air filter type cap on the valve cover instead of going to the air cleaner. I believe I have seen these filters on some engines.
For now forget about any changes to the air cleaner and valve cover breather (or oil cap) these are not absolutely necessary. It works with out this and you could add it later if you want.
Yes I suppose you pull from the old road draft tube weld on something to adapt the PVC grommet. On any engine you just need to pull from upper part of a side cover or valve cover. The valve cover is highest point and what would be ideal is to also locate it at the opposite end from the breather. Check any factory system for a guide.
Yes I suppose you pull from the old road draft tube weld on something to adapt the PVC grommet. On any engine you just need to pull from upper part of a side cover or valve cover. The valve cover is highest point and what would be ideal is to also locate it at the opposite end from the breather. Check any factory system for a guide.
Can you believe it. I tried to pull out the rubber grommet at the back of the valve cover so I could measure the hole. Instead of pulling it out I pushed it in so I took the cover off and I'll be dam if I can find that grommet. I thought it was caught in the baffle but noway. The only thing I can figure is that when I pulled the cover off it went out the baffle end and bounce across the floor and under something some days it just don't pay to get out of bed.
Yeah Murphy’s Law! Drop a bolt or wrench and it bounces under the center of the car were you can't reach it. Some day’s everything clicks quickly you know its going to be a good day. Some times you’re doing things you have done many times before yet its not happening very quickly sign of a bad day? I usually walk away for awhile and do sometime else, than come back to it later. You will find that part some day when your not looking for it!
Well got lucky yesterday a friend who has a small repair shop had an old for 4x4 in his yard that had 300 in it. I took the grommet and pcv valve and also the junction block that is just under the carb. It has several vacuum inlets on it and the truck has power brakes so I'm wondering would the booster and master work with drum brakes? I know there would probably be an issue with the corner brace but I think I could modify it if having the booster would be beneficial.