Roller lifters?
- Thread starter blueroo
- Start date
No...and Yes.
The problem is you need a way to hold the lifter in place so the roller maintains its profile on the cam lobe.
Racers in Brazil and Argentina have been modifying blocks to run roller lifters and cams for years. IIRC it involves drilling holes in side of the block to locate the roller lifter tie bars.
On that note Mike (AzCoupe, aka Classic Inline's head honcho) is working with some cam companies to develop a roller cam kit for the 170-250 inline six motors.
So the question is how creative are you and how much do you want to spend?
The problem is you need a way to hold the lifter in place so the roller maintains its profile on the cam lobe.
Racers in Brazil and Argentina have been modifying blocks to run roller lifters and cams for years. IIRC it involves drilling holes in side of the block to locate the roller lifter tie bars.
On that note Mike (AzCoupe, aka Classic Inline's head honcho) is working with some cam companies to develop a roller cam kit for the 170-250 inline six motors.
So the question is how creative are you and how much do you want to spend?
MIKE/ILLINOIS
Well-known member
Mike already has roller rockers available. No roller lifters yet.
Mike
Mike
A
Anonymous
Guest
Comp Cam roller lifter to suit 429/460 big block fit straight into an aussie crossflow block and I assume the same goes for US blocks. The aussie crossflow is a 0.875" lifter bore the same as Windsor, Clevo and BB fords.
The big block happens to have two features that make it work in the 250:
The 429/460 BB has a 2" wide straight tie bar which suits the 250 block lifter spacing
The oil holes are aligned across the lifter, i.e aligned with the tie bar.
Note you don't want the oil passage in the block to align with the hole in the lifter, you want the oil to have to squeeze around the body of the lifter to find the oil pasaage that feeds the pushrods
The clevo lifter is the same part number as the 429/460 but with a shorter tie bar. If you get a set of cheap Clevo one comp cams have removable tie bars so you can buy the BB ones seperately and put them on.
Their catalogue has all the info and is available on line on their website.
Some blocks need slight die grinding on the inside wall of the pushrod gallery to allow the tie bars to clear. The aussie crossflow block has a slight hump in the block wall behind the dizzy for example.
The next part though is the cam, no one makes them! A roller cam needs to be a billet steel item not an ordinary high chrome cast one that most places sell.
We only have one place here in Aus that will do the steel billet and they won't sell it unless they also grind the profile etc for you and so far they have not convinced me that they are going to get the specs right. They certainly don't have a catalogue full of roller profiles to suit the 1.73 rocker ratio like most of the big U.S manufacturers.
I was going to enquire with the likes of Comp Cams in the U.S. to see what they can do.
The next step is you need to consider good valve springs, valves and rockers to take full advantageof the roller cam. The main advantage of them is the roller on lobe geaometry allows them to ramp the valve open a lot harder but you need installed seat pressures around 180 - 240lb seat and up around the 500 over the nose.
The big block happens to have two features that make it work in the 250:
The 429/460 BB has a 2" wide straight tie bar which suits the 250 block lifter spacing
The oil holes are aligned across the lifter, i.e aligned with the tie bar.
Note you don't want the oil passage in the block to align with the hole in the lifter, you want the oil to have to squeeze around the body of the lifter to find the oil pasaage that feeds the pushrods
The clevo lifter is the same part number as the 429/460 but with a shorter tie bar. If you get a set of cheap Clevo one comp cams have removable tie bars so you can buy the BB ones seperately and put them on.
Their catalogue has all the info and is available on line on their website.
Some blocks need slight die grinding on the inside wall of the pushrod gallery to allow the tie bars to clear. The aussie crossflow block has a slight hump in the block wall behind the dizzy for example.
The next part though is the cam, no one makes them! A roller cam needs to be a billet steel item not an ordinary high chrome cast one that most places sell.
We only have one place here in Aus that will do the steel billet and they won't sell it unless they also grind the profile etc for you and so far they have not convinced me that they are going to get the specs right. They certainly don't have a catalogue full of roller profiles to suit the 1.73 rocker ratio like most of the big U.S manufacturers.
I was going to enquire with the likes of Comp Cams in the U.S. to see what they can do.
The next step is you need to consider good valve springs, valves and rockers to take full advantageof the roller cam. The main advantage of them is the roller on lobe geaometry allows them to ramp the valve open a lot harder but you need installed seat pressures around 180 - 240lb seat and up around the 500 over the nose.
Say, what is the name of the company that makes the billet cam's? I'd be interested in ordering one and seeing if i could make it work out.
8) clay smith is the cam company that supplies mike with the cams that he sells. perhaps you can go through mike at classic inlines to see if they would be willing to custom grind a roller cam for you. then you need to figure out how to prevent the roller lifters from turning in the block. once that is done you need to find either a steel(best choice) or bronze distributor gear. perhaps our southern neighbors in argentina could help with that.
We had discussed this before though I think kinda expensive due to labor involved and cost of the sleeves aswell. But Jessel and possibly a few others make a "keyed sleeve" to install in the lifter bores to use with lifters that have a key that fits in the groove as the lifter moves up and down in the bore keeping it from rotating. IIRC the last time I checked the sleeves alone were around $60. a piece but it is another option instead of drilling holes in the side of the block.rbohm":3jjhaoo5 said:
http://jesel.com/index.php?categoryid=10
The problem isn't figuring out how to install the lifters, as there are actually three ways to do it. The biggest problem is getting the blanks, since they are not a production item in the US. While I can special order them, I have to purchase a minimum of 300 cores. The problem is, I think it would take forever to sell 300 cams, and I can't afford to tie up that kind of money. The only other option is finding out who the manufacturer is in Argentina, and seeing if they will ship to the US. Maybe one of our Argentine members can find out and let me know. Once I get some cores, the rest of it is pretty easy.
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