?'s on sealer, lubricants and procedure

[LameHoof65]

Well, don't have my head back yet, so I have been filling my time with how I plan to put this 200 back together. In the process I came up with a few questions.

1) since I still have the old timing chain on and the head off, I thought I would simply line up the crank pulley with the camshaft pulley to put #1 at TDC.
2) pull the old tc off & take out all my old lifters and put in my new camshaft with lube provided by FSPP.
3) install new t/c and sprockets lining up the 0* mark on crank with the mark on the cam sprocket.
4) put new seal with multi-purpose grease into the timing cover and (set aside for final assembly).
5) put back in the old hydraulic lifters.
6) position adjustable type push rod in #lifter seat, adust dial indicator as positioned in line with lifter travel and rotate cam until #1 intake is at bottom of camshaft lobe and then 0 in dial indicator.
7) rotate crank clockwise until back at the top of the cam lobe and check with cam specs. (do this for each intake and exhaust port).
8) if cam checks out clean flange then replace tc cover and take out old hydraulic lifters.
9) flip the engine block over clean up the pan and flange and the engine flange.
10) put gasket in timing cover bottom, put gasket on block for pan and replace pan with new bolts.
11 once bolts are torqued to specs flip engine back over and put in new hydraulic lifters (not sure of what kind of lubricant) and then wait for my head to come in.

I have the complete corteco gasket kit with the white seal technology. I suppose since it says white seal technology means that you do not have to apply any sealant?? of any kind? I know that there is a specific type lube to put between the moving metal parts but I am not sure what it is called and what the best brand might be. Feel free to criticize and give advice on the above outlined procedure...I want to do this right.

Another question I have is in regard to stabbing the distributor. I think it is probably a good idea to have everything lined up at TDC in order to have it ready for the distributor before putting the head on for final assembly. I know that's a 'duh' statement but it leads to another question once you stab the distributor can you prime the oil pump by rotating the crank or is there another way of doing it before you put all this back together?

Also, should I soak those new hydraulic lifters in oil before putting them in the block? :roll: I know these are probably dumb ?'s but it has been a good 30 years since I helped my dad put an engine together and I can't remember what we used or the exact steps. I remember when putting the crankshaft inserts in we used a white creamy type of lubricant for the crankshaft....I also remember we used a high temp permatex seal on some of the gaskets around the intake manifold and on the head gasket we sprayed it with a special coating of some kind..but my memory isn't what it use to be. :roll:

 

[mustang6]

I have the complete corteco gasket kit with the white seal technology. I suppose since it says white seal technology means that you do not have to apply any sealant?? of any kind?

I would still put a little sealant at the most leak-prone areas, like the four "corners" on the oil pan where it meets the timing chain cover and rear main seal.

I know that there is a specific type lube to put between the moving metal parts but I am not sure what it is called and what the best brand might be. Feel free to criticize and give advice on the above outlined procedure...I want to do this right.

Camshaft break-in lube is required for a new cam and lifters, also doesn't hurt to put a little bit at each rocker arm tip where it pushes on the valve. Assembly lube or a good thick oil (I like Hilton Hyperlube, some people use STP) is adequate for everything else (bearings, pistons, etc.).

Another question I have is in regard to stabbing the distributor. I think it is probably a good idea to have everything lined up at TDC in order to have it ready for the distributor before putting the head on for final assembly. I know that's a 'duh' statement but it leads to another question once you stab the distributor can you prime the oil pump by rotating the crank or is there another way of doing it before you put all this back together?

You don't want to prime the engine by turning the crank, that's just the same as cranking it to start. Buy an oil pump priming shaft (I've heard some people make their own by using an old distrubtor shaft with the cam gear removed) and use it to stick down the distributor hole and spin the oil pump without the engine moving any other parts. This gets the oil to all the engine's extremities BEFORE the crank gets turned, and this way you still know that the engine is at TDC when you stab the distributor.

Also, should I soak those new hydraulic lifters in oil before putting them in the block?

Yes, a good idea to soak them and push up and down on the hydraulic plungers with a pushrod until the air bubbles quit coming out of them. This way you know they are fully lubed internally.

I remember when putting the crankshaft inserts in we used a white creamy type of lubricant for the crankshaft....

Assembly lube on the crank, camshaft break-in grease on the cam...

I also remember we used a high temp permatex seal on some of the gaskets around the intake manifold

Use as recommended above

and on the head gasket we sprayed it with a special coating of some kind..

On old steel head gaskets a copper sealant spray was often used to help the head gasket seal. Modern composite head gaskets usually need nothing to help them seal.

 

[addo]

I have confidence in wsaIII's suggestions of the best sealant for the rear main. Worth looking up, if he doesn't chime in. I think it's Lexus "FIPG" or some such.

Packing the oil pump gears with moly grease creates suction sooner, too. This grease dissolves in motor oil (some greases don't!) and is well-tested in such a role. I think you could also fit a tee to the oil pressure sender hole, then use air pressure and a remote reservoir to prime the oiling system.

Use the balancer to centre the timing cover before snugging the bolts up. Remove it for final torquing, then refit afterwards.

Regards, Adam.

 

[Stubby]

I usually try to use sensor safe sealants because I like to use A/F monitors when possible.

 

[LameHoof65]

Thanx for the great information it will go a long way to helping me get this engine buttoned up. Here is the stuff I have in my garage right now:

For threads I have the Permatex Red threadlocker for the head studs and rocker arm bolts.

I have the Permatex High-Temp Red RTV silicone gasket maker for dressing gaskets for the oil pan,timing cover, water pump and thermostat. It is good for up to 650*

I plan on using nothing on the head gasket...once it's torqued down there shouldn't be any sealing problems if torqued right, right??

They do make a High-Temp Permatex for sensors I am assuming that would be for the threads on the temp and oil sending units??

Any of this sound okay?

 

[wsa111]

Adam, this is from a previous post, & it seals to perfection. William

Hope this helps, install the rear main seal with the ends at 10:00 o'clock on one side & 4:00 o'clock on the other side. Then put a small daub of sealer which you need to purchase at a toyota or lexus dealership. Its called FIPG. Put a small daub at the butting surfaces of the neoprene rear main oil seal. Before you put the rear main bearing cap in place place a very small bead of this sealer at the outer edge or lip where the rear main bearing cap contacts the block. Also place a very small bead from the seal to the outer edge where the main cap sits to the outer edge or where the cap contacts the block. Don't forget to place sealer on the flywheel or flexplate bolts to the crankshaft.
Using this procedure i have never had a rear main oil seal leak or even seep. This applies to fords & chevrolets, big block or small block with the 2 piece rear main seals. william