sealing head gasket etc

[Anonymous]

Hi All,
I would like your best secret tips on changing the head on my stock '68 200. some areas i am concerned about are:

1. I am installing a NOS early rocker shaft assy with the adjustable rockers. New Elgin early-style pushrods. I was hoping not to do anything to the stock hydraulic lifters which i am sure are well gummed into the current setup. they currently seem to be working fine though. is there a good way to set this up? i doubt the lifters will collapse consistently to set cold /static.

2. I have obtained a couple NOS steel head gaskets( OEM ) and plan to use.( one spare just in case). the head is newly milled so has an excellent sealing surface. the block however will not be resurfaced since it is just a gasket/head change. What kind of method...sealant if any can be used to assure a proper lasting seal? currently the exsisting gasket is ealing properly around each cylinder as i have 150 psi equal on all cylinders. but i am seaping oil-to-water, water-to-oil and water-to-external at cylinders 3/4. so i suspect i will see some minor scars in this area on the block surface.

3. what about my exsisting 200 exhaust manifold mating to the new head.
is it adviseable to use a sealer here to preclude leakage noises etc.

I appreciate any tips that might help me to get a better job.

Thanks Frankie

 

[rbohm]

8) 1: if the engine is still running, run some marvel mystery oil through the system, about 20 min should do nicely. then do an oil change after you change the head gasket.

2: for sealer, use the spray on copper coat gasket sealer, it works very well.

3: the same copper coat sealer will work well on the exhaust manifold gasket.

 

[Falcon62]

1. If you aren't having any problems with your lifters now, it's unlikely they are gummed up. You can feel zero lash very easily with your current lifters, just spin the pushrod in your fingers of one hand while slowly turning the adjusting screw on the corresponding rocker. When you feel drag develop on the pushrod, you are at zero lash. Turn the adjuster approxiamtely 3/4 turn from that point. See this post for details on cam position prior to adjusting your rockers: http://fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=13187

2. My concern here is a newly milled head, steel shim head gaskets, and an original un-decked block surface. Your compression is fine, indicating you don't have a blown head gasket. Seepage is common on these engines, especially if the block surface isn't refinished. You say you are seeping water to oil and vice versa. How much seepage? Does your coolant level drop and your oil level rise? Are you having cooling problems? If not, then you might not solve your problem by replacing the head gasket unless you choose a modern style composition gasket which will drop your compression ratio.

3. Ford didn't use exhaust gaskets at the factory, so you don't have to use one when you put it back together, as long as the exhaust flange and the exhaust manifold are surfaced to ensure they are true. If not, you can use an exhaust flange gasket when reinstalling the manifold. There will be no problem with the manifold bolting up to your new head. Other than manifold outlets, the head flange side is essentially the same for all domestic 144 - 250 engines.

I'm moving your post to the Small Six Performance forum, you'll get more responses to your questions that way!

 

[Anonymous]

yes i drive 50 miles each way to work. its using 1-2 qts water each 50 miles. i have a coolant recovery tank. which i refill half full every morning.
there are a some droplets of water glycol( green) in the valve cover, breather cap etc. and that telltale white stuff that isnt supposed to be there. it was much worse with a 16lb pressure cap. i reduced it to a 10lb. also i see a minor oil slick on the radiator water level surface and oily sludge forming in the coolant recovery tank. i also see green bubbles and wetness at the head seam on the plug side between 3 and 4. i did try alumaseal but i dont want to goop up my new radiator. i dont have a cooling problem right now since it is runiing betwen 180 and 190 with a 180 thermostat. but it isnt hot weather yet...only about 80F. will be up to 100 soon. i want to get it sorted out by then.

i hate to lose that 1/2 point of compresssion with the felpro gasket. that is why i am fishing for advice from others who may have worked through this already. on the upside the head( American Rebuild) is a 68 with hardened seats so it has undoubtedly been milled. i will cc the end cylinders so i know where im at. if milled enough maybe the felpro is OK.

i dont know if the history makes any difference. the engine has 120k original miles. from compression check 150psi and no smoking or blowby i assume the cylinders are OK. the engine was parked for 20 years with water in the block so it had lots of time to rust. i flushed it and changed the water pump, hoses ,thermostat. could all that time have rusted through the gasket?. maybe the corrosion is mostly the gasket in lieu of the head surface.?

how about using something like the non hardening permatex in a tiny bead around all the water& oil openings( use a glue hypodermic) on the bottom side only. then copper coating both sides of the gasket?

i just looked in mcmaster carr and see they list a couple industrial products for sealing high temperature marine flanges and compressor heads. anyone ever tried anything like this?

 

[Anonymous]

stude;
I used the Permatex Copper (paint-on type_ with my steel head gasket and it worked well. However, from the description you're giving, it sounds like the head or block is warped or cracked, if you have a steel gasket in there now. Otherwise, I can't see how that much water could get in there...it's also mighty hard on the bearings, that water...

I have 2 of the Ford composite-type gaskets left, which are .027" thick. (The steel units are between .018" and .020" thick, the FelPro about .050" and the Victor about .045" thick). Ford issued these to improve sealing between the head & block to reduce their warranty costs while still preserving most of the compression ratio. If you don't have any cracks in the head/block but suspect some warpage, it might be a good idea to get the head milled to at least flat, if not remove .010" to .020", then use a composite of some kind, just in case the block is warped.

Drop me a PM if you want one of these "C" series gaskets: they're $38 plus shipping.