Simple timing question

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I have a stock 200 in my 66 Mustang with the Pertronix ignition modul instead of points... what should I set the timing to?


Pertronix is the way to go... VERY easy install!!
 
Howdy Hayford:

For a stock manual trans the initial is 6 degrees BTC. For an Auto trans engine it is 12 degrees BTC.

To add a little thrill to your driving experience and to save a few cents at the pump, try adding an additional 5 degrees of initial advance. Listen for ping or knock. If none, enjoy. If you get any pre-ignition, back off the advance setting and try again.

Adios, David
 
yeah, what czln6 said.

In my case, I advanced it till it pinged, then backed off and went for a test drive. When it still pinged under acceleration, I stopped and backed it off just a bit more.

Change the coil as well if you haven't. That will really give it the kick in the pants to make you smile. :wink:
 
Hi Guys...

So for an auto trans are you saying 12 plus 5 BTDC? 17 BTDC?

I've played with my 200ci first at 12, 14, then finally 17 degrees and that seems to be the best. But I thought I read somewhere it's not a good idea to go past 12-14 degrees.

Anyway I've never advanced it til she pings. I'll give it a try.

LaGrasta - just for reference - what is your final timing setting?
 
I recurve Dists as a side job , and a bit of advice , increasing the initial to the 14- 20 degree range usually perks most combos up quite a bit , BUT , be careful , if you dont know what your total advance is ( use a Dialback timing light to verify ) you risk severe engine damage , using ones ear as a saftey net is NOT a good way of tuning , if it was Diagnostic equipment would not have been invented ( nor would of factory Knock sensors ) I whole hardley agree on playing with the initial , BUT limit the total to a 32-36 degree area ,and never bring the total in before 2500, unless its a race only vehical with more than 94 octane in the tank !!
 
Excellent advice, it's good to know what to look out for. Thanks.
 
Dial back timing light is needed mark tdc, dial in 32 degrees ( or what your looking for) rev the engine ( never over 3000 or so and watch were the mark stops ), on some balancers a timing tape can be used , but for the stock 144-250s one is not available although some simple math will work find the tdc mark then measure the distance needed a scribe a line, notch , there are 360 degrees in a circle so its a simple math deal after you measure the diamerter
 
FalconSedanDelivery":1biafsar said:
Dial back timing light is needed mark tdc, dial in 32 degrees ( or what your looking for) rev the engine ( never over 3000 or so and watch were the mark stops ), on some balancers a timing tape can be used , but for the stock 144-250s one is not available although some simple math will work find the tdc mark then measure the distance needed a scribe a line, notch , there are 360 degrees in a circle so its a simple math deal after you measure the diamerter
Click to expand...

Hey,
My '65 Mustang has a 200 and no damper on the crank, just a notch on the belt pulley. Is that common? Would you be so kind as to scribble a little diagram of the marking procedure with the math formula?
I installed a Dura II, GM module and late model T-Bird coil. The car runs better than stock but I'm not getting much of a "performance" feel that everyone talks about. However, I know I'm a long way from being completely tuned, eg. (just discovered) leaky carb, dizzy needs to be recurved and not real sure where to plug the vacuum advance, carb or manifold port? Currently plugged into manifold. I am a mech engineer and trained machinist but very limited experience with engine tuning, not stupid, just ignorant.
Any suggestions will be much appreciated!

CrashBob, wannabe mechanic
 
I think if you swap out the heavier spring in your distributor for a lighter one that comes with the Mr. Gasket kit, and use the carb port for vacuum you will notice a difference. I don't have my timing quite as high as others here, I think it's at 10 or 12, but 8 is the stock setting for a '78 engine+C4(smog setting :P ). Mine pings under load if I push it higher, but that's probably due to too high vacuum from the port. And I also have my valve timing advanced 4* with the double-roller timing chain from Classic Inlines.
When you have the distributor apart you can check to see which cam is being used for mechanical advance. Another variable to fiddle with...
See these articles:
http://www.carbdford.com/viewtopic.php?t=5543
http://www.carbdford.com/viewtopic.php?t=4736
 
ok here's what I tried with my DSII and Holley 1904 set up for my '69 200 engine, manual tranny.

Took a stainless protractor and set the arm at 30 degrees. Found my balancer centerline, set the arm at the notch, then marked the 30 degrees on my pulley. Set the notch at 10 degrees btdc at idle 550 rpm, then revved it up. It stops advancing at 2400 rpm (no load) at about 38 degrees total advance. No pinging and pulls real strong up to about 4,000 rpm (guessing at rpm, no tach).

Too much advance? Does it need the re-curve kit? These are stock springs and a new rebuilt DSII. Hooked up to timed advance on carb.

John
 
I read the CARBDFORD article and saw the graph. I have a good idea of whats happening.

With my new 200 engine with 268 cam and 250 head..I picked up the DUI from FSPP.

Where do you start the timing on first startup?

I assume (bad word choice...I know) that advancing till pinging occurs (while watching the advance degrees) is the same from that point?

Jim in MO
 
My '66 shop manual says that a 170 and 200 with auto trans can be tuned from the normal 12 degrees timing to +5 thru 2 degrees. I take that to mean that 2 through 17 degrees BTDC is the timing range that Ford specified for my engine.

In case it is helpful, the shop manual literally says:

"For altitude operation, and/or to obtain optimum engine performance and fuel economy, the initial ignition timing may be advanced to 5 degrees over the "normal" setting. No further improvement in engine performance will be achieved by advancing beyond this point. Advance the timing progressively until engine detonation (spark knock) is evident under actual road test accceleration. Retard the timing until the detonation (spark knock) is eliminated.

If the individual requirements of the car and/or the the use of subsandard fuels dictate, the initial timing may have ot be retarded from the recommended setting to eliminate detonation (spark knock). If retiming is necessary, it should be done progressively and not to exceed 2 degrees BTDC."

Terrorr: My Son and I timed our 200 tonight and also found that about 17 degrees was where the thing seemed to run the best. The timing mark is flashing about 3/8" "above" the end of the timing mark plate.

I also have to set the idle to about 700RPM to get it running smooth and prevent stalling. I need some help tuning my carb apparently but that's another post...

John
 
Right after this post, I blew a head gasket so I decicded to rebuild and start over. I now have a performance built 200 with 250 head and many options. Best of all a DUI unit from FSPP.

My problem now is a flooding carb. (Another post)
 
Till it pings advice , Never trust your ears to tell you timing (pinging ) map it out with a dial back light , Detonation is THE BIGGEST KILLER OF AN OTHERWISE HEALTHY MOTOR !! , if your ears were sufficient Knock sensors never would have been needed. good luck with your new motor
 
THAT IS VERY SOUND ADVICE.

I sorta used my ears and recorded the timing setting. I have a decent timing light. Drive it...adjust/record ...then drive it...and that is how I set my old engine to get the best. But of coures she was weak and had 124K on her.

The new engine is about 12deg now..but I cant lower the idel to 750...cause the carb floods out and gushes gas. Stalling the engine. i have another post on this...wondering about carb size or maybe something else.
 
all 6's should have one , about 28 bucks at Autozone , check other probs first , dirt in carb , too high float , but it will run better with the regulator
 
Fords early one brls ( especially the Holleys ) are prone to flooding , the Fuel pressure regulator also dampens the fuel pump pulse and keeps the needle in the carb from vibrating
 
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