A
Anonymous
Guest
I thought I would share some tunning info that helped my car. For those that don't know I just recently got my stang running again. It's a 200 with an Aussie head and a 500cfm Holley with lots of the same upgrades other folks have here in the forum (262 Cam, larger valves, etc....).
Anyway, until lastnight the car would not idle in gear worth spit and up till this point I learned to drive with 2 feet at stop signs, lights, etc...
I had done some testing with a vacum gauge to see if the power valve was opening up to early (I also had this terrible stumble off idle) and noticed that when cracking the throttle open vacum would drop all the way to 0 for an instant and come back up. So I thought I would try a power valve rated at a really low vacum. So the parts come in and I installed a 2.5 power valve. It seemed better right off the bat but not yet right. So I proceeded to try a couple more things. I had originally set the timing at 14 and decided to go back to the settings in the manual which is 12. Did that and then readjusted the mixture screws and then main idle screw.
Thos last two adjustments (timing, mixture screws) has made a world of a difference. The car idles in gear great no more two feet operation at stops. In addition this morning when firing up the car it only needed help for about 30 seconds before it would idle on it's own no choke or fast idle cam. Before it would take minutes before it would idle on it's own and then I had to use both feet to get it out of the garage.
I can tell it's still to rich because it ran a bit rougher when it was warmed up versus cold. I've already gone down from 74's to 65 mains. I'm going to try lowering the float level a bit more before I put smaller mains in it.
Another thing if anyone has been thinking about using Red Line Water wetter I highly recommend it. I put some in lastnight and drove around for a few miles testing the new timing and mixture screw settings. This morning on the way to work I could visibly see the difference on the temp guage. The stuff really does help your engine run cooler. When I was road racing bikes we weren't allowed to use antifreeze because of it's tendancy to be slippery if it were to spill out on the track. As a reslut you either ran striaght distilled water or a mix of the distilled water and red line water wetter.
Just thought I would share this info with the rest of the crew. Oh yeah, the car has a noticable increase in power for sure and my custom throttle linkage isn't opening the butterflys all the way (long story for another post but basically just needs some adjustments).
At any rate when I get the carb just right it will be on a dyno shortly after and I will have some numbers for everyone.
Anyway, until lastnight the car would not idle in gear worth spit and up till this point I learned to drive with 2 feet at stop signs, lights, etc...
I had done some testing with a vacum gauge to see if the power valve was opening up to early (I also had this terrible stumble off idle) and noticed that when cracking the throttle open vacum would drop all the way to 0 for an instant and come back up. So I thought I would try a power valve rated at a really low vacum. So the parts come in and I installed a 2.5 power valve. It seemed better right off the bat but not yet right. So I proceeded to try a couple more things. I had originally set the timing at 14 and decided to go back to the settings in the manual which is 12. Did that and then readjusted the mixture screws and then main idle screw.
Thos last two adjustments (timing, mixture screws) has made a world of a difference. The car idles in gear great no more two feet operation at stops. In addition this morning when firing up the car it only needed help for about 30 seconds before it would idle on it's own no choke or fast idle cam. Before it would take minutes before it would idle on it's own and then I had to use both feet to get it out of the garage.
I can tell it's still to rich because it ran a bit rougher when it was warmed up versus cold. I've already gone down from 74's to 65 mains. I'm going to try lowering the float level a bit more before I put smaller mains in it.
Another thing if anyone has been thinking about using Red Line Water wetter I highly recommend it. I put some in lastnight and drove around for a few miles testing the new timing and mixture screw settings. This morning on the way to work I could visibly see the difference on the temp guage. The stuff really does help your engine run cooler. When I was road racing bikes we weren't allowed to use antifreeze because of it's tendancy to be slippery if it were to spill out on the track. As a reslut you either ran striaght distilled water or a mix of the distilled water and red line water wetter.
Just thought I would share this info with the rest of the crew. Oh yeah, the car has a noticable increase in power for sure and my custom throttle linkage isn't opening the butterflys all the way (long story for another post but basically just needs some adjustments).
At any rate when I get the carb just right it will be on a dyno shortly after and I will have some numbers for everyone.
