special trick to get harmonic dampner off?
- Thread starter Asa
- Start date
The crank bolt itself is just a large right hand fine thread bolt- it can take a lot of torque to crack one loose but then it should thread out easily as the washer and damper pretty much seal the threads from the elements. I've used a pipe on a breaker bar in the past, and I've heard of some people locking same against the subframe and bumping the starter to do it (disconnect the coil lead first).
When using a puller on the damper, I find it's useful to tighten it up until there is a good amount of pulling pressure, then rap the puller bolt head hard with a hammer, tighten again, rap it again, repeating until it starts to pull off smoothly by just tightening the puller.
When using a puller on the damper, I find it's useful to tighten it up until there is a good amount of pulling pressure, then rap the puller bolt head hard with a hammer, tighten again, rap it again, repeating until it starts to pull off smoothly by just tightening the puller.
Two handed job... Fit the socket, shortest possible extension and breaker bar together. Steady and keep aligned with one hand while you apply a decent sharp "whack" using a 3 pound lump hammer in the other paw.
A number of short, sharp whacks is the key. Remove all plugs first to avoid the off-chance of compression ignition. (If the head's still off, no worries...)
I use the central mounting bolt for the puller tip to bear against. Just back it out to give 1/8" clearance underhead as you go. Otherwise, there's a good risk you'll damage the infernal threads.
A number of short, sharp whacks is the key. Remove all plugs first to avoid the off-chance of compression ignition. (If the head's still off, no worries...)
I use the central mounting bolt for the puller tip to bear against. Just back it out to give 1/8" clearance underhead as you go. Otherwise, there's a good risk you'll damage the infernal threads.
yeah, head's still off
how can i lock the damper in place? i did have a trusty craftsman wrench wedged in between the frame and one of the arms on the damper
that was workin well as it wasn't moving... but i saw the wrench flexing, and i was pulling the engine to the side because of how much pressure i was puttin on it...
so i stopped that cause i had visions of a wrench cracking and throwing shards all over the place
how can i lock the damper in place? i did have a trusty craftsman wrench wedged in between the frame and one of the arms on the damper
that was workin well as it wasn't moving... but i saw the wrench flexing, and i was pulling the engine to the side because of how much pressure i was puttin on it...
so i stopped that cause i had visions of a wrench cracking and throwing shards all over the place
In the army, your taught to apply brute force to anamimate objects when there is a need.
That's not the need at the moment.
Grab some dieselone, some CRC or WD40, and find a bowl to stop drips hitting the floor. Soak the crap out of it for six hours, and rap it over the head with a wooden floor brush or broom handle. Then shove a boiled jug of water over it at hour seven. Clean it . Leave it an hour. Then cold pack it with peas for half an our.
You are adamant I'm taking the mickey outa ya, but I'm not.
The bolt is too big, too stong and too mighty, so there's only one thing to do, something you haven't done!
Then do what Adam says.
The bolt needs the force of friction broken internally, and viration forces capilaary action through the bolt threads. Making the bolt larger and smaller forces thje bound breaker in an out, and the cool peas cause the bolt to become smaller.
My mate Dave has an old Mercury Thundabolt 40 Outboard which was wet locked becasue of not being cleaned out after a run. We soaked it in diesel, and it never shifted for three weeks. Then Davey hit it with a broom, and whamo, she was free!
Rebuilding the engine for his boat.
That's not the need at the moment.
Grab some dieselone, some CRC or WD40, and find a bowl to stop drips hitting the floor. Soak the crap out of it for six hours, and rap it over the head with a wooden floor brush or broom handle. Then shove a boiled jug of water over it at hour seven. Clean it . Leave it an hour. Then cold pack it with peas for half an our.
You are adamant I'm taking the mickey outa ya, but I'm not.
The bolt is too big, too stong and too mighty, so there's only one thing to do, something you haven't done!
Then do what Adam says.
The bolt needs the force of friction broken internally, and viration forces capilaary action through the bolt threads. Making the bolt larger and smaller forces thje bound breaker in an out, and the cool peas cause the bolt to become smaller.
My mate Dave has an old Mercury Thundabolt 40 Outboard which was wet locked becasue of not being cleaned out after a run. We soaked it in diesel, and it never shifted for three weeks. Then Davey hit it with a broom, and whamo, she was free!
Rebuilding the engine for his boat.
The best way to get the bolt off is to use a long breaker bar. Put it on the bolt and lrest the breaker bar on the left side frame rail. Then bump the starter. The engine will turn and break the bolt loose.
Ever try to set the ignition timing with a kaput balancer? I kept wondering why the advance was slowly increasing....thought I was losing my mind.asa67_stang":3hwl5rhz said:
Then I turned on the a/c, and holy cow! The outer ring was walking 60-90 degrees with every flash of the timing light - yow!
But I've always used the breaker-bar-on-the-frame-and-hit-the-starter method, it's never failed me yet. Just make darned sure the breaker bar is on the correct side of the frame, or it'll go for a ride!
I did have a pita with my balancer puller, the bottom of the radiator cross-piece was just in the way of the end of it. I took off the pointed tip from the centerpiece of the puller and put its end up inside the threads, thinking it would clear the threads. It didn't quite, so I got to chase them with a tap. sigh...
A
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I just soaked it with pb blaster then took the longest wrench i could find and wacked the crap out of it with a BFH untill it broke loose (engine out of car)
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