stalling

[hasa68mustang]

I have noticed that my car likes to stall. I have noticed while at the drag strip when I went to rev back at someone I put it to the floor and it bogged down until I let up It would be ok if you gave it gas first but otherwise it would bog down almost to the point of stalling. Today at a 4 way stop I took off normal and then at about 5 mph I punched it and it stalled... and I had to put it in neutral and restart... My friend who just bought an old ford truck with a 360 (I had no clue ford made a 360) and some ricers pulled up and he went to rev and it stalled what could be causing our troubles? Thanks, Tommy

 

[addo]

Well, a common cause of stalling is the carb's accelerator pump not working properly. This is usually evidenced by the car stalling when you quickly open the throttle wide, from a small amount.

Stalling may be caused also by ignition problems - a weak spark, bad timing come to mind.

Then there's automatic trans related issues (idle vice). If your idle speed is higher than stock by much, you may run close to fluid locking the converter while idling. This is when a stall converter is needed.

These suggestions ought to get you started.

 

[hasa68mustang]

I was thinking ignition related because of my crazy timing (30* TDC) and no pinging I still have yet to figure that one out... when the timing is set low around the 14* mark the car runs and unless the idle is high runs like the first video (crazily lopey) but when you put it in park the idle goes up to like 1500 rpms and it doesnt care to turn off easily.... with the timing advanced it does both ok. With the converter being bad wouldnt that mean it wouldnt do it in park? Tommy

 

[pedal2themetal45]

Sound like you have alot of issues to deal with...
Why would you put the cam in at 4* advance?? instade of 0 ? just courious.. I would think that may be some of your Idle probs?? and timmig issues... So if you set your timming at 14* with your advance timming gear is it 10* or is it 18* of actural timming??
Having to idle so high with your cam set up you are way out of the idle transion in the carb so actualy the mixture screw is of no use as well as maybe the accelerater pump...
I would almost bet if you pulled you chain and put it back at 0 most of your prob would go away... but thats just me

Anyway stalling like you are talking about sounds like accelerator pump..
Tim

 

[hasa68mustang]

I installed the cam 4* in advance so that the power range would be lower than it would at 0 for better low end power. I also need to degree the cam in but I need to buy the kit to do it, at the time I was broke and I just made my insurance payment and I get payed today, so hopefully I can buy it. The accelerator puimp came to mind but I figured with it being a new carb I shouldnt have problems like that.

 

[JackFish]

My chain is in at 4* but I have a stock cam at the moment and NO block or head machining. Perhaps you should be careful about pre-ignition, which could kill your motor sooner than later.
http://www.misterfixit.com/deton.htm

 

[pedal2themetal45]

HI YA HASA68
I talked to a few folks on another site and with all the probs your discribing it sounds like you have a huge vacuum leak... they did say by advancing your chain it should'ov helped the idle...
Heres a link on how to read a vacuum gage and what it means.. Can't hurt to check it out......

www.centuryperformance.com/vacuum.asp

Tim

 

[wsa111]

Tommy, the stalling is probably from heat soak on the float bowl of the holley.
To be on the safe side install a new pump diaphram & rubber check valve & make sure the accerator pump lever is adjusted properly.

The installation of a heat shield under the float bowl will help keep some of the heat off that area.

The camshaft being advanced 4 degrees perks up your low end, I have my 264 2 degrees advanced & it idles perfect.

I have 24 degrees of centrifigul advance all in by 2800 rpms & have 14 degrees initial for a total of 38 degrees. Also have your vacuum advance hooked up to manifold vacuum not ported vacuum, you want the vacuum advance for improved idle conditions.

Check for vacuum leaks & set the idle adjustments so it will be about 800-900 rpms in park. Good luck William

 

[hasa68mustang]

My chain is in at 4* but I have a stock cam at the moment and NO block or head machining. Perhaps you should be careful about pre-ignition, which could kill your motor sooner than later.
http://www.misterfixit.com/deton.htm

I am 99% sure my car isnt spark knocking. I know what it is and sounds like and havent heard any pinging yet which scares me... I am going to try to find some answers after I post this... horay my 1 day off of the week...

 

[wsa111]

Tommy, I forgot to suggest you also should use .031" accerator pump nozzle, that will fill that lean hole on initial acceration providing the pump is ok. You know heat causes a bog on the first application of the throttle & the second time it will have no bog.

Your engine is very similiar to mine & I run 71 main jets, stock is 73.

Good luck, William