Swapping On A Rebuilt Head (200) -- Tips? Difficulty? etc???

[The Iceman]

Ill be home for my 11 day spring break next week and I have the 170 with the rebuilt 200 head (just over 1000miles on the rebuilt head) and I would like to take the REBUILT head and put it on the 200 already in the '65

I have the official Ford shop manual so I know that will give perfect explanation with regards to waht to do....

HOWEVER! 8)
are there any specific things i need to know?
what else do I need other than a new headgasket?
do I need to mill the head or anything or can i just clean both mating surfaces, and then install the rebuild head?
do i have to adjust anything?
how difficult of a swap is this??
any tips/tricks/hints etc etc??

Id like to do it during that week because i take it it is a straightforward 1-day swap and will stop my burning of oil at startup (original engine in the '65 with 85,000+ miles on here -- it should eb safe to say the bottom end is fine right???)

Im also considering throwing on a new timing chain while Im at it, but that will depend upon how "simple" and how "long" this head swap will take

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy Dan:

Please read (or reread) my sticky post at the top of this forum. Pay particular attention to the difference in gaskets and the difference they makes.

Was the rebuilt head milled in it's rebuilding? How much?

In addition to purchasing a head rebuild gasket set you must carefully clean and check the head over for wear, cracks and/or other concerns. Take a close look at the rocker arms, shaft and push rods. If you see funny, or excess wear, dissassemble and thoroughly clean- each and every pin hole. The head rebuild gasket set will have all of the gasket you need in the package. It will also have a fresh set of valve stem seals. They are sure easier to change with the head off. Add a new thermostat while you're at it, and fresh coolant.

The head is heavy and awkward. It is best to have several strong arms to help lift it out of the engine bay, if possible. The clean one, going in, is only slightly less awkward. It is best to install the exhaust manifold on the bench, before setting the head on the block. the down side is that it adds to the weight.

Be sure to use a quality torque wrench to torque the head into place. Use hardened washers on the head bolt if you can, to help spread the load. We use a set for Chevy sixes. Be sure to clean the head bolt holes out before assembling. Follow the factory torque sequence.

The only savings in doing the timing set now is the coolant, as you will have to remove the radiator to get to the timing set. If I were in your shoes, I'd tackle the head swap first and then decide on the timing set.

Do your initial start up with the valve cover off to verify that oil is getting all the way to the front of the rocker arm shaft. Check for leaks and fix any that you discover before going on.

That, and the shop manual, should get you started. You might share back what you learn from the experience.

Adios, David

 

[Anonymous]

I just resently replaced my head on a '64 I6 200. Keep a clean work station. Bag, tag,label and keep your push rods mated with the correct cylinder. Tap out your head bolt holes. Remember to pay particular attention which head bolts require water sealant. One way it to cross reference your shop manual with the cleaning out of the head bolt threads in the block. My manual stated " the Nos bolt 1 and 6 on the right side". When you tap out your holes you'll notice that in these two holes, the tap will go all the way through or deeper than the rest. These holes are either in a water jacket or near one. Watch how you install your head gasket, double check your oil and water passages. If you think the head is going to be awkward, install guide bolts on each end. Torque your head properly using the manuals specific sequence. I have to laugh, because when I was doing this my inlaws where in town. They had no idea this was my first time. So, if anything keep a straight face...ZZ 8) P.S. It runs like a champ. I drive it over a hundred miles a day.