The machinist saw my head

[B RON CO]

Hi, just figured I tell how my visit to the machine shop went. I took my "new/used" head apart and saw the intakes were reamed. I did a little (not finished) port, bowl, exhaust grinding. The machinist, who was an older man (good), and in business since before I moved here (1986) was not fazed by my port work. So he looks at my head and valves and asks what I want. I tell him I'm not ready to drop the head off now but...What would it cost to do the valve job? I'm going to get the new springs and seals, and if he can weld in the port divider. So he looks at the valves and says the stems are worn, you might as well get new valves. OK and I don't do welding. OK. So here is the price. 12 guides, $12 each, ($144) , grind 12 seats, $12 each, ($144). Your gonna assemble it yourself? Sure. And you want it milled? Yes, the exhaust side milled too. OK, $100 for that. So it looks like the machine work is $400. How does that sound to you guys? I do know another machine shop and I will see what they say. What have you guys been doing about the port divider? I got mine to fit pretty !@#$ tight, but it does need to be milled. Are ther other options besides welding? Thanks

 

[cr_bobcat]

Seems reasonable to me. I'm going to shell out 2X that, but I'm also having all new guides, 0.070" mill, oversized valves cut, guides cut for viton seals, and the log milled/drilled/tapped for 2bbl install. There's also a magnaflux, dip, and media blast in there too.

 

[Econoline]

That sounds OK to me. Mine was $520, but with oversized valves on both exhaust and intake, bronze guides installed, both surfaces milled and assembled.

 

[adamscm]

I ended up paying $380 for my 144. Here's what I got:
New Valves
Guides drilled out oversize
seals
mill head .030
remove 3 broken manifold bolts.

 

[B RON CO]

Thanks guys, It doesn't seem too bad but I'm still buying all the parts. This is just labor. Has anyone done the port divider without welding?

 

[cr_bobcat]

I've seen others on here post about the noise the divider makes if not welded in. Apparently it's not pleasant. I'm not sure about some of the hi-temp repair stuff. You might try it. Some are advertised to 1400 deg or something like that. Worst case it burns off....

 

[hotroady]

Should be welded with 7018 or cast rod.

 

[65coupei6]

Has anyone done the port divider without welding?

I don't think one is needed. But you can install it without welding. You can drill a hole down into the head and divider. Use a bolt or dowel to hold in place. Also grind the divider down just enough so it has to wedged in.
I did both of these plus it was welded for good measure. But, it still came loose I hear a little tapping with the engine running.

 

[rbohm]

$400 for your machine work is a pretty good deal. as for the port divider, one thing you can try is a good high temp epoxy and glue it in place. it might still come loose though.

 

[hotroady]

Epoxy is not going to cut it. #1 reason it won't hold. is because someone tried to mig it in there. I am a certified weldor, by the way.

 

[powerband]

... instructions with original Holley port dividers called for an "interference" fit and grinding cast divider to fit with 'a few thousandths' projecting to hold it fast with the 3/4 port gasket seal . I used this with a 170 and Hooker dual out long tubes with no problems for @ 3 years.

have fun

 

[chad]

each one is a lill different.
fit and try, fit & try w/a lill filing/grinding between each try. When just right (in the back & on the "T") check the frnt for projection into the gasket/exh. flange area. Any wrk U do now is less after welded in.
Weld in (tacks so as not to over heat).
Use ur straight edge to check for removal of any projections into the gasket area/port face. B careful here.

Basically this is Y I have the divider - to help @ the header gasket area.