The winner...and NEW linkage champion of the woooorld:

TheDude

Well-known member
Accidentally clicked "Submit."

Please excuse me while I finish the post. :oops:

[And a friendly, invisible, bod tidies it up! :) ]...

Today I woke up around 8:30 (AM of course) and washed and waxed my grandmother's new car. Afterwards I relaxed a little then I went outside and opened the hood of my Mustang. I was just pondering what might work to extend the linkage for the 2bbl carburetor upgrade. Then I thought of something that might actually work!

First, here was my dilemma: The throttle was not lined up with the linkage on the 5200 carburetor because of the pushrod. It was an inch closer to the engine. The pushrod at the end of the throttle was pointing towards the front of the car. In order for me to fabricate a working linkage I had to use an "L" design. I bolted some flat stock to the pushrod (the flat stock was facing the shock tower). I bent it at 1" then I bolted it up to the throttle lever on the carburetor. That did not work out. The ball joint would pop out of the pushrod at a certain angle. The next bracket I made still used the "L" design but this bracket consisted of two pieces bolted together at the 1" bend. Again, this did not work. I needed a pushrod that faced the shock tower. Otherwise, the aluminum flat stock would not work.

Now, this is what actually works:

While looking at the carburetor today I realized what I could do. I could eliminate the pushrod altogether! At the end of the throttle there is a hole (where I previously had the accelerator springs attached). I bolted a piece of flat stock to it to act as my new pushrod. Now the linkage lined up with the throttle lever on the carburetor. I bolted another piece of flat stock to the top of the new "pushrod." The second piece then attached to the carburetor throttle lever. At first the flat stock pushrod was not vertical enough. I had to drill another hole in the second piece of flat stock to allow the pushrod to rest at a more vertical angle. It took much tweaking to finish the new linkage. I had to drill several additional holes until I found the best angle at which to have the new pushrod. I also had to grind the pushrod some because at full throttle it would hit part of the carburetor. It was a close fit but both throttle plates open fully and the linkage is now complete! Sometime in the future I would like to go to a cable setup...but this will work for now. The two pieces of flat stock are not bolted tightly enough to hinder movement. They are loose enough to allow pivoting. The pushrod pushes up while the second piece moves clockwise with the carburetor throttle lever. I will not have pictures of my setup very soon. Sorry. :(

I also have a question. Tomorrow I would like to hook up the electric choke. I would like to hook it up to the alternator. This seems to be the easiest point at which to attach the wire. Where exactly on the alternator do I attach the wire?

Thank you so much,

Justin :wink:

Have a good night. :D
 
If you have 12V's at the coil, why not use it? I wired mine to the coil with no problems at all. The other really good option is the S terminal on the starter solenoid (or is it I terminal...which everone is powered in the Run, not the start position, always got them backwards until I tested them).

Slade
 
Hooking up at the coil can cause an unwanted voltage drop at that connection.

One advantage of using the alternator is that the choke is only being activated when the engine is turning. Look for the "S" terminal. That's the stator. It only makes 12V when the engine is running and the alternator is charging, so you won't have any power there until you have the car started.
 
Does anyone have any pictures of where the wire attaches to the alternator? I looked in my shop manual and it says the "White with black stripe" wire goes to the stator terminal. I see a white with black wire but I want to make sure it is the right terminal. My brother is helping me with the soldering. We have the wire soldered to the metal tab on the electric choke. We are using flux, which is supposed to help with the soldering. Does anyone know if flux is supposed to be in a liquid state? We thought flux was supposed to be somewhat more solid...like an epoxy.

Thanks,

Justin :wink:
 
How much would that cause the voltage to drop? My choke is wired to the coil and when I check the voltage from the coil, it is at about 11 volts.

Now, with my current problems with my Ignitor (which I am not convinced is not just a bad unit), this makes me wonder...
 
Electrical solder does not use flux. Flux is acid and the capillary creep will run up your wiring harness and rot the copper after a few years.

I am not sure what to do, to remedy you predicament. Maybe dip the wire ends soldered, in strong ammonia for a few minutes?

Sorry to tell you this, but it's better to know now than later.

Adam.
 
You can sweat pipes with a torch, a can of flux, and a roll of solder. That kind of solder is usually solid, and the flux is painted onto the connection before the connection is heated and the solder applied. The flux is kinda pasty like vaseline.

For electrical work it is usually easiest to buy rosin core solder. This kind of solder is not solid, it is metal wrapped around a rosin core, making it much easier to bend than solid solder.

-Dan in Atlanta
 
Back
Top